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Originally Posted by fleslider
(Post 20457770)
I i remember right, it was a change that happened when drops were getting away from the benotto and cloth tape bars going to the cork base.
If its Cork base or any of the padded bar tape then they say go bottom up if its a benotto or a clot tape then you can go top down. It basically has to do with the cork tape being as flexible as it is and stretching. so you wrap in the direction that the hand would move to tighten the tape not loosen. |
FWIW, I've always taped my bars from the top down.
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Well, you're Army.
Originally Posted by top506
(Post 20462991)
FWIW, I've always taped my bars from the top down.
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Originally Posted by top506
(Post 20462991)
FWIW, I've always taped my bars from the top down.
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Ok, so I always struggle with headset replacements. On my 1989 Expert I can't seem to find a happy point. Once I get it tight enough to quit "knocking" with the front brake engaged it's binding. It was serviced, freshly greased, when I got it and it was built up. But on the 2nd ride things loosened up. It's been sitting all winter as I keep forgetting about it. I assume the headset is just worn. What sizes should I be looking for as I order in a new replacement? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by jamesdak
(Post 20463920)
Ok, so I always struggle with headset replacements. On my 1989 Expert I can't seem to find a happy point. Once I get it tight enough to quit "knocking" with the front brake engaged it's binding. It was serviced, freshly greased, when I got it and it was built up. But on the 2nd ride things loosened up. It's been sitting all winter as I keep forgetting about it. I assume the headset is just worn. What sizes should I be looking for as I order in a new replacement? Thanks!
If replacing, carefully measure the stack and crown race size to make sure you get one that will fit properly. Pretty sure the race is a 27.0, but who knows what tomfoolery might have occurred since 1989. |
Originally Posted by jamesdak
(Post 20463920)
Ok, so I always struggle with headset replacements. On my 1989 Expert I can't seem to find a happy point. Once I get it tight enough to quit "knocking" with the front brake engaged it's binding. It was serviced, freshly greased, when I got it and it was built up. But on the 2nd ride things loosened up. It's been sitting all winter as I keep forgetting about it. I assume the headset is just worn. What sizes should I be looking for as I order in a new replacement? Thanks!
Hopefully someone will come along with correct size replacement. |
Originally Posted by texaspandj
(Post 20464051)
Not sure my answer will make sense but I once installed a headset and I put one of the rings upside down. So it was loose but yet bind'd, (binded bindeded) a true conundrum. ....well til I simply flipped the o ring next to the bearings and ta da. Yeah, for me installing it correctly made the difference.
Hopefully someone will come along with correct size replacement. |
I'd render an opinion on the headset, but as my only headset tools are a hammer and long screwdriver, I'm leaving this well enough alone. I have had the same issues, swapped around bearing cages, etc, and generally have found a happy ending. Wait, that's not what I mean.....
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I'm getting ready to put a new chain on my Miami Vice Ironman. So I've posted although I can shift to my lowest gear (28t) with some hesitation, once there it makes more noise than I'd like with the RD pulley hugging the freewheel too close. So the question is will adding a adding a link to the new chain be helpful?
Currently running stock 105 components with a 7 speed gripshift shifters and a China shimano freewheel and original 31 year old chain (b screw is maxed). |
Try shortening your existing chain by two links; sometimes that puts enough tension on the RD cage to pull it away from the cassette. OR, take the RD off and reverse the B screw so the bolt head is against the hanger, same as using a longer bolt. Or, use a longer bolt. |
As soon as I saw a response I realized tension (shorter chain) was more logical.
Installing tomorrow, (per you) "could just be the chain". Thanks Doc. |
Logic.
Ironman. Utterly contradictory. Unless you know the deal. We know the deal. |
Brake hoods for my 1987 Expert?
I'm looking for brake hoods for my 87 expert. The specs for that year say it takes 1050 aero .But my levers are stamped 1051.
Are these one and the same? |
Yep, those are correct. Very difficult, almost impossible, to find replacement hoods, however. You might find it easier and less expensive to buy another set of levers with good hoods.
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Originally Posted by rccardr
(Post 20503431)
Yep, those are correct. Very difficult, almost impossible, to find replacement hoods, however. You might find it easier and less expensive to buy another set of levers with good hoods.
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If I recall correctly, there never was a 1050 aero lever & 1050 levers are all non-aero. Not something you run across very often. 1051 levers are the aero ones, came with either black or white hoods, used on a zillion bikes as OEM from 1987 six speed (rest of the group was designated 1050) through 1990-ish seven speed (shifters, freehub style rear hub and perhaps the green anodized calipers also designated 1051). But both groups utilized the same 1051 aero brake levers. |
Originally Posted by rccardr
(Post 20461005)
Yes, it will work, and I have actual experience. Because the chain is narrower externally, you may have to mess with cable tension to get it closer to the next upshift cog, but other than that it's OK. Downshiftng is typically not a problem. Having said that, I still prefer to use 6-7-8 speed chain for this application, usually SRAM 850. It's relatively inexpensive and lasts a long time. |
Originally Posted by TXsailor
(Post 20516301)
Per this advice I replaced my Suntour freewheel with a zinc Sunrace 13 28 and used a SRAM 850 chain. Wow it shifts like butter and indexes perfectly. I added 2 links over the stock chain length.
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Originally Posted by TXsailor
(Post 20516301)
Per this advice I replaced my Suntour freewheel with a zinc Sunrace 13 28 and used a SRAM 850 chain. Wow it shifts like butter and indexes perfectly. I added 2 links over the stock chain length.
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When y'all are switching from a 6 to a 7 speed freewheel, are y'all adding a spacer? I put the SunRace 7 speed freewheel on my Miami Vice, and the chain hit the stay/dropout...
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Do you already have 7 speed shifters? Or are you going friction. I suggest keeping it 6 speed unless you plan on a more serious "upgrade".
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I'm already using it in friction, so the shifter isn't a problem for me. I thought since the rear dropout spacing was the same for 6 and 7, then it would be simple.
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While nominal dropout spacing is the same for 6 and 7 speed, frames designed for 6 speed freewheels sometimes have too little clearance on the inside of the DS dropout for the gear and chain.
You can place a 1mm shim under the DS axle locknut to give you enough clearance for the chain to roll without interference. Should not be necessary to redish, etc. You will probably have to remove the freewheel in order to do this. |
OK, I was worried about having to re-dish, or creating other problems, so wondered how everyone else was doing it. Thanks.
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