Velo Cheapo 2016?
#78
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HA! I guess it could be. I did not read the rules but it was completed this past Saturday.It was ridden to school this morning. School is only a 1 1/2 miles away so by the end of the year he may have hit the mileage requirement......
#79
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Spent some serious time building last night and this morning. My goal for this was a rideable road bike, with serious hill gearing, for dirt cheap. Cosmetics is not a concern at all, hence, I did not re-paint the frame (a prior owner did a crappy re-paint, and there are plenty of noticeable scratches on it. If anything, ugly with no brand ID, along with friction shifting may act as a theft deterrent. A prior owner also sawed off the DT shifter bosses, so that necessitated either some add-on DT cable-stop clamps, or use of cable ties. Because the clamp I needed was out of stock at WalMart (who listed it for $7 with store pickup, and anywhere else would have been over $10 after shipping, and my LBS wanted $18 for it, I went with cable ties) I made several other decisions strictly due to cost and part availability in my bin, including going with a 27" rear wheel, and a 700c front, and SunTour Ratchet Stem-mount shifters ($3 at a swap meet, DT shifters would have set me back at least $15, maybe $20). Because of the wide range triple gearing, I ended up getting some brand new Shimano Tourney derailleurs $11 rear, $4 front).
At the same swap meet where I got the $3 shifters, I also got a $3 SR Laprade seat post, a $5 Nitto quill stem, and $5 TTT bars, the latter two components being significantly better than I expected to source, but I couldn't quibble about those prices. Everything else came from my existing parts bin. Other than the wheels, which both are over 25 years old, and I'd say fully depreciated, and certainly not worth more than $15-20 each on the used market excluding rubber. I was originally going to put a new Shimano or IRD 7-speed 13-28 freewheel on it, but I couldn't get the existing SunTour 6 speed 13-28 off of the 27" wheel, so my planned 7x3 is now a 6x3 with the same gearing range. The 27" rear wheel, in addition to the freewheel, has a Campy Nuovo Tipo Large flange hub, and an Ambrosio rim. Rubber is a new Kenda K36 27 x 1 1/8 tire, that I picked up two of last year for $18 for the pair including shipping. The front wheel is a Matrix rim and hub that came off of my Trek that I rode across the U.S. on in the summer of 1979, and had been retired for around 20 years. Rubber is a Nashbar Prima 2 Plus 700x25 that cost me about $8-9 on clearance. Brakes are a very nice set of Tektro R740s that I picked up in a swap meet last year for $10 and subsequently didn't use and Dia-Compe levers gotten for $8 at the same time. The BB was a used Shimano 121mm BB55 that I picked up for $2 at the same swap meet last year and the crank is a Sakae 28-38-48 MTB triple that I pulled off of ebay for $17 including shipping last year. The saddle is an Orbea Velo saddle that I got on ebay last year for $8 inclusive of shipping, and hadn't had any bike to mount it on. I was pleasantly surprised how comfortable it is.
Including everything except the wheels which I value somewhere between $0-35 for the pair excluding rubber, the whole build set me back about $130. I took it on it's shakedown ride earlier today, got the gearing adjusted, and put about 8 miles on it.
The verdict is, it's ugly, but it is an eminently rideable bike, fits me perfectly, and is more responsive than I ever expected it would be. It weighs in at a tad under 25 lbs. Mission accomplished. All it needs now is bar tape, which will go on this afternoon.
Edit: The final touches are done now: a double wrapping of bright green gel bar tape (which, BTW, I got from China via ebay for $1.30 per set) and a Raleigh USA head tube badge that came off of a junker M20 MTB frame I scavenge for parts.
At the same swap meet where I got the $3 shifters, I also got a $3 SR Laprade seat post, a $5 Nitto quill stem, and $5 TTT bars, the latter two components being significantly better than I expected to source, but I couldn't quibble about those prices. Everything else came from my existing parts bin. Other than the wheels, which both are over 25 years old, and I'd say fully depreciated, and certainly not worth more than $15-20 each on the used market excluding rubber. I was originally going to put a new Shimano or IRD 7-speed 13-28 freewheel on it, but I couldn't get the existing SunTour 6 speed 13-28 off of the 27" wheel, so my planned 7x3 is now a 6x3 with the same gearing range. The 27" rear wheel, in addition to the freewheel, has a Campy Nuovo Tipo Large flange hub, and an Ambrosio rim. Rubber is a new Kenda K36 27 x 1 1/8 tire, that I picked up two of last year for $18 for the pair including shipping. The front wheel is a Matrix rim and hub that came off of my Trek that I rode across the U.S. on in the summer of 1979, and had been retired for around 20 years. Rubber is a Nashbar Prima 2 Plus 700x25 that cost me about $8-9 on clearance. Brakes are a very nice set of Tektro R740s that I picked up in a swap meet last year for $10 and subsequently didn't use and Dia-Compe levers gotten for $8 at the same time. The BB was a used Shimano 121mm BB55 that I picked up for $2 at the same swap meet last year and the crank is a Sakae 28-38-48 MTB triple that I pulled off of ebay for $17 including shipping last year. The saddle is an Orbea Velo saddle that I got on ebay last year for $8 inclusive of shipping, and hadn't had any bike to mount it on. I was pleasantly surprised how comfortable it is.
Including everything except the wheels which I value somewhere between $0-35 for the pair excluding rubber, the whole build set me back about $130. I took it on it's shakedown ride earlier today, got the gearing adjusted, and put about 8 miles on it.
The verdict is, it's ugly, but it is an eminently rideable bike, fits me perfectly, and is more responsive than I ever expected it would be. It weighs in at a tad under 25 lbs. Mission accomplished. All it needs now is bar tape, which will go on this afternoon.
Edit: The final touches are done now: a double wrapping of bright green gel bar tape (which, BTW, I got from China via ebay for $1.30 per set) and a Raleigh USA head tube badge that came off of a junker M20 MTB frame I scavenge for parts.
#80
Senior Member
i think i just inadvertently started a velo cheapo. i picked up a toast hammered velo orange fender, kinked and crashed till the rear was bent 45 degrees upwards, and put it mostly back to true. of course, i forgot to take pictures before i started.
#81
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Collect before and after photos. Keep watching the two threads. Then I'll start collecting photos, stories, and mileage to consolidate in February. Hopefully you can keep them until then.
#82
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This may be out of your budget, but this showed up on Craigslist today. I don't have any info on it, but could probably facilitate shipping if necessary.
1 inch threaded Cr-Moly extra long fork (700c) - $95 (NE Eugene, Or)
It looks like several tall bikes showed up on Craigslist today.
1 inch threaded Cr-Moly extra long fork (700c) - $95 (NE Eugene, Or)
It looks like several tall bikes showed up on Craigslist today.
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80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
#83
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Mileage log so far for the Tri-Lite:
11/21 - 22 mi at 47 deg. F
11/25 - 16 mi at 47 deg. F
11/27 - 18 mi at 63 deg. F
Build's completed now. I'll post pictures as soon as time permits.
11/21 - 22 mi at 47 deg. F
11/25 - 16 mi at 47 deg. F
11/27 - 18 mi at 63 deg. F
Build's completed now. I'll post pictures as soon as time permits.
#84
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I am going to be somewhat mileage constrained, as I need to paint my entry. The original paint was toast, and my son sandblasted it for me Friday. Need to think over my hub and brake options, and hopefully find recyclable spokes in the stash to rebuild the wheels with better rims. Just the front wheel weighs more than the frame, fork and fenders combined.
The before above. The after is weeks off still.
The before above. The after is weeks off still.
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Last edited by USAZorro; 12-01-15 at 09:23 PM. Reason: added picture
#85
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Update - I started with this dumpster pick.
Thanksgiving put me a bit behind in my parts search, But now it is beginning to come together. I spent time looking for a cheapo square taper crankset, but gave up and am replacing the bottom bracket with a cottered style from my "parts I'll never use" box. First I have to wait a bit for the mineral spirits to soften the hardened grease in the bearings.
I was going to dis-assemble the crankset and use the small ring, but it is riveted together, so I'm leaving it as is. My parts box gave me a pulley, and I found a used shifter with cable at my LBS for $5.00. The junk box also donated a BMX brake for the front and a no name brake lever. Cables and housings are all used stuff. I think I have an old 1/8" chain I can use as well. Here is where I am right now.
Thanksgiving put me a bit behind in my parts search, But now it is beginning to come together. I spent time looking for a cheapo square taper crankset, but gave up and am replacing the bottom bracket with a cottered style from my "parts I'll never use" box. First I have to wait a bit for the mineral spirits to soften the hardened grease in the bearings.
I was going to dis-assemble the crankset and use the small ring, but it is riveted together, so I'm leaving it as is. My parts box gave me a pulley, and I found a used shifter with cable at my LBS for $5.00. The junk box also donated a BMX brake for the front and a no name brake lever. Cables and housings are all used stuff. I think I have an old 1/8" chain I can use as well. Here is where I am right now.
#86
Still learning
I believe the rules call for accountability of the parts bin components, either how they were zero cost or fmv.
#87
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This bike is kind of like a hamburger from McDonalds at this point. IIRC, the average McD's burger contains meat from approximately 40 different cows. There is not a way to identify a specific cow, once its a burger. This bike has parts from at least 6 different flips (that I can remember) and one of my personal bikes. We'll just call it a Quarter Pounder with cheese and be done......
#89
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My entry is done. I still need to tally the cost, since so much of it is subjective. Here is what I have so far:
1. MASA 12 complete bike - $0 (pulled from a dumpster)
2. Steel 26" wheels with S/A S3C rear hub - $0 (trade for 27" wheels, derailleurs, & shifters that were on the bike originally)
3. Seat post and clamp - $0 (were on the bike)
4. Bars and stem - $0 - (were on a Columbia 10 speed pulled from the same dumpster)
5. Steel cottered 10 speed crankset - $? - (came from my parts stash, I don't know how to value)
6.S/A shifter, cable, and clamp - $5.00 - (from LBS)
7.S/A pulley - $2.50 - (pulled from stash, LBS sold me a replacement for $2.50)
8. Front BMX brake - $1.50 - ( half of a $3.00 set at a bike swap, BTW the cables and housings are recycled)
9. No-name front brake lever - $0 - (it was a on the frame above for the front brake)
10. Tubes - $8 - (LBS)
11. Tires - $24 - (LBS)
12. Saddle - $2 - (part of a $20 Raleigh I bought a while back)
13. Pedals - $5 - (nearly new take-offs from a Raleigh mountain bike I sold earlier)
14. Chain - $8 - (LBS)
So far that tallies to about $62.00 by the calculator in my head.
I must say however, that the S/A S3C hub is as problematic as I have read. I put 12 miles in today - mostly in first gear, sometimes in third, but sometimes second gear would show up for a few seconds whether you wanted it or not. The coaster brake worked well - much better than the front BMX cheapo.
So here is my entry:
I'd like to call it a "Path Racer", but after 12 miles, a "Path Pacer" may be the name.
1. MASA 12 complete bike - $0 (pulled from a dumpster)
2. Steel 26" wheels with S/A S3C rear hub - $0 (trade for 27" wheels, derailleurs, & shifters that were on the bike originally)
3. Seat post and clamp - $0 (were on the bike)
4. Bars and stem - $0 - (were on a Columbia 10 speed pulled from the same dumpster)
5. Steel cottered 10 speed crankset - $? - (came from my parts stash, I don't know how to value)
6.S/A shifter, cable, and clamp - $5.00 - (from LBS)
7.S/A pulley - $2.50 - (pulled from stash, LBS sold me a replacement for $2.50)
8. Front BMX brake - $1.50 - ( half of a $3.00 set at a bike swap, BTW the cables and housings are recycled)
9. No-name front brake lever - $0 - (it was a on the frame above for the front brake)
10. Tubes - $8 - (LBS)
11. Tires - $24 - (LBS)
12. Saddle - $2 - (part of a $20 Raleigh I bought a while back)
13. Pedals - $5 - (nearly new take-offs from a Raleigh mountain bike I sold earlier)
14. Chain - $8 - (LBS)
So far that tallies to about $62.00 by the calculator in my head.
I must say however, that the S/A S3C hub is as problematic as I have read. I put 12 miles in today - mostly in first gear, sometimes in third, but sometimes second gear would show up for a few seconds whether you wanted it or not. The coaster brake worked well - much better than the front BMX cheapo.
So here is my entry:
I'd like to call it a "Path Racer", but after 12 miles, a "Path Pacer" may be the name.
Last edited by dweenk; 12-04-15 at 09:22 AM. Reason: Additional information
#90
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#93
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Another 17.5 mi. in on Monday (which I took off). Temperature was a nominal 46 deg. F. Total for the bike is up to 73.5 miles. Pics will go up when I get to them.
I checked on the total for my expenditures and I've gone over the limit by quite a bit - so I'll be riding this thing up until the point where I can't anymore, due to the cold. That really was the objective. Doesn't make sense to me to ride and be miserable.
Frameset (frame, fork, stem, headset, brakes, bottom bracket, seatpost, front derailleur, junker seat that needed to be re-glued, brake levers) - $50
Wheels - $30 (no joke - hubs are junker shimano; spokes and nipples are recycled; includes the $15 tubular rims)
Handlebar - $5 (doesn't fit the stem; had to torque the handlebars in and pry the prongs apart with a huge screwdriver)
Crankset - $10 (estimate; taken off of the Tommasini because they really didn't belong)
Rear derailleur - $10 (estimate; scratched to hell when I got it at VeloFest)
Cassette - $5 (compendium of cogs from about four different Ultegra/105/DA cassettes; much uglier up close; some cogs are still wonky)
Cables - $10 (estimate; most are left-overs and scraps from previous builds)
Tires - $30 (more expensive of the two was purchased on eBay)
Bar tape - $10 (another VeloFest pick-up)
Chain - $5 (recycled/partly stretched/compendium of two different chains)
Paint - $10 (recycled from past home/garden projects)
Shifters - $40
TOTAL (estimated) is $215
After mileage = $141.50, so I have a few miles to burn. My intention is to keep going.
I checked on the total for my expenditures and I've gone over the limit by quite a bit - so I'll be riding this thing up until the point where I can't anymore, due to the cold. That really was the objective. Doesn't make sense to me to ride and be miserable.
Frameset (frame, fork, stem, headset, brakes, bottom bracket, seatpost, front derailleur, junker seat that needed to be re-glued, brake levers) - $50
Wheels - $30 (no joke - hubs are junker shimano; spokes and nipples are recycled; includes the $15 tubular rims)
Handlebar - $5 (doesn't fit the stem; had to torque the handlebars in and pry the prongs apart with a huge screwdriver)
Crankset - $10 (estimate; taken off of the Tommasini because they really didn't belong)
Rear derailleur - $10 (estimate; scratched to hell when I got it at VeloFest)
Cassette - $5 (compendium of cogs from about four different Ultegra/105/DA cassettes; much uglier up close; some cogs are still wonky)
Cables - $10 (estimate; most are left-overs and scraps from previous builds)
Tires - $30 (more expensive of the two was purchased on eBay)
Bar tape - $10 (another VeloFest pick-up)
Chain - $5 (recycled/partly stretched/compendium of two different chains)
Paint - $10 (recycled from past home/garden projects)
Shifters - $40
TOTAL (estimated) is $215
After mileage = $141.50, so I have a few miles to burn. My intention is to keep going.
Last edited by kunsunoke; 12-03-15 at 08:53 PM.
#94
Senior Member
nice. one. I posted my work in progress in the other thread as well - but this one seems to be getting more traction. I am working slow as I am trying to use ONLY parts that I got somehow for free. this is including reusing old cables and tape tubes and tires..
so far estimated price is ~$28: because I did pay $25 for the frame and various bits with it..and i used some grease, wd-40, and a chunk of steel to make a bracket for the rear rack:
so far estimated price is ~$28: because I did pay $25 for the frame and various bits with it..and i used some grease, wd-40, and a chunk of steel to make a bracket for the rear rack:
#95
Vain, But Lacking Talent
I may very well have an entry by the end of January. Inspired by the dropbar MTB thread and going to look at a cheap Rockhopper tomorrow.
The confusing part to me, in terms of quantifying cost is the parts bin. I have like almost a whole bike in decent parts, the majority of which came off of my first nice road bike, which I sold with a takeoff group from yet another bike. I more or less made a profit on that original bike, so to me those parts bin parts are definitely $0. The only thing that I'm planning on using that is only lightly used are some canti's I only ran a few months before switching to V-brakes. But again, they were off of a full bike and because I paid for the new ones, they are sort of zero sum in my head.
Either way, this should be fun.
The confusing part to me, in terms of quantifying cost is the parts bin. I have like almost a whole bike in decent parts, the majority of which came off of my first nice road bike, which I sold with a takeoff group from yet another bike. I more or less made a profit on that original bike, so to me those parts bin parts are definitely $0. The only thing that I'm planning on using that is only lightly used are some canti's I only ran a few months before switching to V-brakes. But again, they were off of a full bike and because I paid for the new ones, they are sort of zero sum in my head.
Either way, this should be fun.
#96
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#97
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I'll post mine here also. First photo is what I started with, second is where I am now.
Slow going because of the repaint which was necessary because it wasn't orange, but now it is This is the worst paint job in the history of DIY. It looks good from about 20ft. In a dark bar. At last call.
So far I haven't spent any $ except about $10 on paint and primer. I refused to buy a second can of paint even though the frame really needs it. I'm determined to keep this cheap and somewhat undesirable for security reasons. That crankset is the original boat anchor with the built in chain guard and riveted large chainring chopped of. Now that's cheap. The crankset went from weighing about 7 lbs down to 4 lbs.
Now I'm looking for a donor bike with a short riser bar, full length chainguard, and if I'm lucky some decent 27" tires.
Slow going because of the repaint which was necessary because it wasn't orange, but now it is This is the worst paint job in the history of DIY. It looks good from about 20ft. In a dark bar. At last call.
So far I haven't spent any $ except about $10 on paint and primer. I refused to buy a second can of paint even though the frame really needs it. I'm determined to keep this cheap and somewhat undesirable for security reasons. That crankset is the original boat anchor with the built in chain guard and riveted large chainring chopped of. Now that's cheap. The crankset went from weighing about 7 lbs down to 4 lbs.
Now I'm looking for a donor bike with a short riser bar, full length chainguard, and if I'm lucky some decent 27" tires.
#98
Bad example
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Lotekmod, is that a Capri? I got one of those for 20 bucks. It's a pretty decent bike, although not as plush as one with better steel. Still I found it fun to ride.
#99
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It's a 1980-something Marathon. I haven't ridden it yet but the frame looks nice, though it is on the heavy side. Plenty good enough for a grocery getter though. I think it'll be pretty fun to ride around town with a low-rise, swept back bar.
#100
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Looks good to me, Jim. I'm doing something similar though the AutoZone didn't have any orange paint that I liked. I'm hoping to spray the contrasting head tube today and then do the clear tomorrow, taking advantage of a warm early Dec day.