Wrapping drop bars in reverse
#1
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Wrapping drop bars in reverse
Starting from the top to the drop without using electrical tape,will it hold up decent if you ride exclusively on the hoods? Anyone wrap this way ?
KF
KF
Last edited by kflagg; 11-19-15 at 05:14 PM.
#3
I've done it that way in the past. It is nice to tuck the end into the plugs.
It has been a while since I've wrapped that way, but it just seems to curl up around the edges of the tape quicker that way.
But, it never hurts to give it a try. Riding from the drops, you would be pulling on the wrap in the opposite direction than when riding from the tops of the bars anyway.
It has been a while since I've wrapped that way, but it just seems to curl up around the edges of the tape quicker that way.
But, it never hurts to give it a try. Riding from the drops, you would be pulling on the wrap in the opposite direction than when riding from the tops of the bars anyway.
#5
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I've done it that way in the past. It is nice to tuck the end into the plugs.
It has been a while since I've wrapped that way, but it just seems to curl up around the edges of the tape quicker that way.
But, it never hurts to give it a try. Riding from the drops, you would be pulling on the wrap in the opposite direction than when riding from the tops of the bars anyway.
It has been a while since I've wrapped that way, but it just seems to curl up around the edges of the tape quicker that way.
But, it never hurts to give it a try. Riding from the drops, you would be pulling on the wrap in the opposite direction than when riding from the tops of the bars anyway.
#7
The curling is always worst near the corners of the and the straight section heading towards the brakes. But, I suppose it wouldn't be bad if you're actually on the hoods.
Why don't you get some cheap bar tape, and wrap one side one direction, and the other side the opposite direction, and see how it holds up.
Or, if your current tape is holding up fine, then don't worry about it.
Why don't you get some cheap bar tape, and wrap one side one direction, and the other side the opposite direction, and see how it holds up.
Or, if your current tape is holding up fine, then don't worry about it.
#8
#10
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From: Connecticut
Bikes: Cervelo S3, Specialized Stump Jumper
That's the only way I wrap my bars from the top down. I start with a piece of electrical tape, holding the beginning of the tape than wrap over the end to hide it and continue down to the drop end plugs. I ride 1200 miles a summer for 3 or 4 years with no tape degradation. I do use high quality cork with self-adhesive backing.
Last edited by Cervelo13; 11-19-15 at 05:41 PM.
#11
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#12
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Sounds like a good idea
QUOTE=CliffordK;18331804]The curling is always worst near the corners of the and the straight section heading towards the brakes. But, I suppose it wouldn't be bad if you're actually on the hoods.
Why don't you get some cheap bar tape, and wrap one side one direction, and the other side the opposite direction, and see how it holds up.
Or, if your current tape is holding up fine, then don't worry about it.[/QUOTE]
Why don't you get some cheap bar tape, and wrap one side one direction, and the other side the opposite direction, and see how it holds up.
Or, if your current tape is holding up fine, then don't worry about it.[/QUOTE]
#13
feros ferio

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Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Non-adhesive: top-down, secured by the plugs or barcons
Adhesive: bottom-up, secured by finishing tape provided
Adhesive: bottom-up, secured by finishing tape provided
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#14
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Schwing!
I go top down. It takes awhile for the cloth tape (usually Newbaums) to start curling over, but it does happen. Often by then I'm ready to replace it or wrap over it anyway, so no big deal. I'm ok doing it every couple years. It gets dirty, faded, etc anyway.
I go top down. It takes awhile for the cloth tape (usually Newbaums) to start curling over, but it does happen. Often by then I'm ready to replace it or wrap over it anyway, so no big deal. I'm ok doing it every couple years. It gets dirty, faded, etc anyway.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#15
I usually start at the top if it's my bike, like Cervelo13 since my hands spend more time on the top of the bars than at the very end of the drops and people tell me it's wrong. They can do it the "right" way on their bike. I go bottom to top on flip bikes that need to have everything just so in appearance.
#17
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#18
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But if you're wrapping from the bottom up, the direction of the wrap should be in the direction your thumb points when you wrap your hand around the bar at any location... if you're going from the top down, is that reversed?
#19
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I always wrapped my bars from the brake levers, going out to the stem and bar ends.
Worked really well since the 80's for me. Doing so prevented me from catching the edge of the tape so it stays put with no gaps ever developing
Worked really well since the 80's for me. Doing so prevented me from catching the edge of the tape so it stays put with no gaps ever developing
#20
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So you cut it and wrap two separate sections?
#21
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From: Hopkinton, MA
Bikes: 1938 Raleigh Record Ace (2), 1938 Schwinn Paramount, 1961 Torpado, 1964? Frejus, 1980 Raleigh 753 Team Pro, Moulton, other stuff...
I've always, no matter whether cloth or (shudder) plastic, gone top down, wrapping 'away' (in the direction of my fingers) as that tends to keep the tape tighter. When I redid SWIMPAL's bike with brifters, and used some other kind of gelly tape, I ended up doing it bottom to top.
#22
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The only place I have ever had an issue with top down is on the ramps. But modern bars don't have ramps, they have hoods instead, so it should be fine. I have traditional bend bars, so bottoms up!
#23
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Great! A lot more good reports than I expected. Will definitely do this when my bars arrive.
thanks guys!
KF
thanks guys!
KF
#24
No, I do not cut the tape before installing it. I just do a dry run (without removing the paper strip the protects the adhesive under the tape. with the wrapping to find out how much tape each end away from the brake lever is needed. I only cut the ends by the stem and the bar ends as I finish.....
#25
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Cloth goes top-down. So does Benotto plastic tape. Everything else goes bottom-up. The following is my tape saga, a longer winded version of this. Continue at your peril
In my ill-spent youth, when cloth was king, gel was something you put in your hair, cork was whispered-about unobtanium, and Benotto plastic was for racer types whose hands sweated much less than mine, wrap jobs went from stem to bar end. I did it that way, and everyone I knew did it that way. It never dawned on me to do it any other way, and I never saw anything holding down the tape at the stem end. Not little strips of what looks like electricians tape. Not actual electricians tape. Not twine. And if you want padding on the bars, you used multiple layers of tape or <shudder> that foam rubber stuff that looked like what is now used to insulate outdoor pipes.
Of course, the cotton tape of choice, at least in my circles, was Tressorex or Tressostar (never did figure out the difference), which had adhesive on the entire backside of the tape. As others have said, it got ratty eventually, but it held down pretty well.
Once padded tapes. cork tapes, gel tapes, and the like came along, the game changed. The adhesive did not go to the edge of the backside of the tape, making edge turn-up more of an issue. Also, because it is thicker, you can't just shove extra tape into the bar end, willy-nilly, and whack the plug into place like you can with cloth tape - suddenly, trimming and some degree of manual dexterity and hand-eye coordination was required, attributes of which I do not have an over-abundance. That's when I started going bottom-to-top and learned that the average tape company includes the absolute minimum possible amount of finishing tape (for next to the stem), and make those strips with an adhesive that sticks most effectively to itself, making any accidental fold-over whilst handling into a minor disaster, all of which thereby makes life unnecessarily difficult for the mechanically declined.
In my ill-spent youth, when cloth was king, gel was something you put in your hair, cork was whispered-about unobtanium, and Benotto plastic was for racer types whose hands sweated much less than mine, wrap jobs went from stem to bar end. I did it that way, and everyone I knew did it that way. It never dawned on me to do it any other way, and I never saw anything holding down the tape at the stem end. Not little strips of what looks like electricians tape. Not actual electricians tape. Not twine. And if you want padding on the bars, you used multiple layers of tape or <shudder> that foam rubber stuff that looked like what is now used to insulate outdoor pipes.
Of course, the cotton tape of choice, at least in my circles, was Tressorex or Tressostar (never did figure out the difference), which had adhesive on the entire backside of the tape. As others have said, it got ratty eventually, but it held down pretty well.
Once padded tapes. cork tapes, gel tapes, and the like came along, the game changed. The adhesive did not go to the edge of the backside of the tape, making edge turn-up more of an issue. Also, because it is thicker, you can't just shove extra tape into the bar end, willy-nilly, and whack the plug into place like you can with cloth tape - suddenly, trimming and some degree of manual dexterity and hand-eye coordination was required, attributes of which I do not have an over-abundance. That's when I started going bottom-to-top and learned that the average tape company includes the absolute minimum possible amount of finishing tape (for next to the stem), and make those strips with an adhesive that sticks most effectively to itself, making any accidental fold-over whilst handling into a minor disaster, all of which thereby makes life unnecessarily difficult for the mechanically declined.
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