Identify this Old Nishiki
11-30-15 | 12:38 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
From: Davis, California
Bikes: 2012 Jamis Aurora
Identify this Old Nishiki
Hi All,
This is my first vintage bike repair/recondition/rebuild. The bike has been on a university campus for many years and I'm repairing it for an intern of mine who bought it for $25. It will be many hours of cleaning, but I'm most interested in what the bike model is and when the bike may have been made.
Description
From the Nishiki Serial thread
K = USA (pre 1985)
S = Used on all frames prior to 1975.
Known Components
I say "known components" because I've only just started working on the bike and I tend to go one part at a time so as not to get overwhelmed. Also, can anyone suggest a good replacement chain? I think this one is original.
This is my first vintage bike repair/recondition/rebuild. The bike has been on a university campus for many years and I'm repairing it for an intern of mine who bought it for $25. It will be many hours of cleaning, but I'm most interested in what the bike model is and when the bike may have been made.
Description
- Make: Nishiki
- Model: Unknown
- Year: Unknown
- Color: Very dark forest green (?) The color looks very different in different lighting.
- Serial: KS184908
From the Nishiki Serial thread
K = USA (pre 1985)
S = Used on all frames prior to 1975.
Known Components
- Crankset: Sugino 54-40 (Going off memory after I cleaned them)
- Rear Derailleur: Suntour GT 5-speed
- Front Derailleur: Compe-V
- Brakes: Center pull, make/model unknown.
- Head Badge: Looks like this (https://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/d/l140/...o6uTH66Ntw.jpg) but in poor condition. (Uses the calligraphy font instead of the sans serif font.
- Bar-end Shifters: Suntour
I say "known components" because I've only just started working on the bike and I tend to go one part at a time so as not to get overwhelmed. Also, can anyone suggest a good replacement chain? I think this one is original.
Last edited by eepok; 12-01-15 at 11:39 AM.
11-30-15 | 01:08 PM
#2
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Its a 1974 Nishiki Competition. I have one just like it (same color too). Nice model (one from the top).
The 1973 version I have is an American Eagle, Semi-Pro (same bike).
Obviously, I have too many bikes right now!!
Realize Nishiki never made a bike, they made brochures. This is not unusual on vintage bikes and does not make the bike worse or better.
Chain? KMC Z33/Z30. Less than $6 on line.
If you have a co-op in your area, check there first as the ones around here sell chain CHEAP.
The 1973 version I have is an American Eagle, Semi-Pro (same bike).
Obviously, I have too many bikes right now!!
Realize Nishiki never made a bike, they made brochures. This is not unusual on vintage bikes and does not make the bike worse or better.
Chain? KMC Z33/Z30. Less than $6 on line.
If you have a co-op in your area, check there first as the ones around here sell chain CHEAP.
Last edited by wrk101; 11-30-15 at 01:12 PM.
11-30-15 | 01:16 PM
#3
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
First step: rebuild everything with bearings: headset, bottom bracket, wheel hubs and freewheel. Grease seat post and stem! Bearings left unattended will lead to failures of more expensive parts. Pay me now, or pay me much more later. It doesn't matter how "smooth" stuff spins. Unless you are SURE they have been recently serviced, grease is bad. I have owned over 600 vintage bikes so far. I have yet found a single one where the bearings and grease were OK. I keep hoping......I've got a particularly bad bearing/grease combo on my Facebook bike page. The only thing lubricating the bearings was RUST, lots of RUST.
Second step: tires and chain.
Third step: cables, housings, brake pads.
Vintage bikes are best suited for those that have the time/tools/aptitude/pile of parts to do the work themselves. A bike like this dropped off at the LBS will cost over $300 to do it right. Why so much? Its a 4 hour job, shops around here charge $75 an hour for labor. Add full retail (or retail plus) pricing on cables, housings, chain, TIRES, etc. and you are up there. Just saw a MTB at my LBS. It needed everything. $450 repair on a $75 MTB. It was a sentimental bike, otherwise not worth it.
Don't toss those bar end shifters. They alone are worth at least $50. Ditto the original coiled stainless cable housings. To remove the bar end shifters, you have to turn the internal allen bolt to the RIGHT. Its technically not reverse threaded, its just that you are on the wrong side of the bolt.
If you don't have all the tools and expertise you need, FIND a CO-OP! There you will find experienced mechanics with the right tools.
Do a half baked job and you will have an inferior bike that is poised for future problems. Don't do it.
Second step: tires and chain.
Third step: cables, housings, brake pads.
Vintage bikes are best suited for those that have the time/tools/aptitude/pile of parts to do the work themselves. A bike like this dropped off at the LBS will cost over $300 to do it right. Why so much? Its a 4 hour job, shops around here charge $75 an hour for labor. Add full retail (or retail plus) pricing on cables, housings, chain, TIRES, etc. and you are up there. Just saw a MTB at my LBS. It needed everything. $450 repair on a $75 MTB. It was a sentimental bike, otherwise not worth it.
Don't toss those bar end shifters. They alone are worth at least $50. Ditto the original coiled stainless cable housings. To remove the bar end shifters, you have to turn the internal allen bolt to the RIGHT. Its technically not reverse threaded, its just that you are on the wrong side of the bolt.
If you don't have all the tools and expertise you need, FIND a CO-OP! There you will find experienced mechanics with the right tools.
Do a half baked job and you will have an inferior bike that is poised for future problems. Don't do it.
__________________
Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
Last edited by wrk101; 11-30-15 at 01:30 PM.
11-30-15 | 02:14 PM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 4
From: Seattle
Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!
Its a 1974 Nishiki Competition. I have one just like it (same color too). Nice model (one from the top).
The 1973 version I have is an American Eagle, Semi-Pro (same bike).
Obviously, I have too many bikes right now!!
Realize Nishiki never made a bike, they made brochures. This is not unusual on vintage bikes and does not make the bike worse or better.
Chain? KMC Z33/Z30. Less than $6 on line.
If you have a co-op in your area, check there first as the ones around here sell chain CHEAP.
The 1973 version I have is an American Eagle, Semi-Pro (same bike).
Obviously, I have too many bikes right now!!
Realize Nishiki never made a bike, they made brochures. This is not unusual on vintage bikes and does not make the bike worse or better.
Chain? KMC Z33/Z30. Less than $6 on line.
If you have a co-op in your area, check there first as the ones around here sell chain CHEAP.
11-30-15 | 02:21 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
From: Davis, California
Bikes: 2012 Jamis Aurora
With that Info, I found this: https://www.labicycletta.ca/wp-conten...chure-1974.png
Which gives me all the original components on the original bike. I think almost everything is original (save for tires, tubs, and brake pads). A lot of work to be done.
Hey, since you've done your fair share of restorations, could you answer another question? Rust-- there's a lot of rust on the chromed bits and under the bottom bracket. I'll be cleaning that off, but what do I do to protect the bike for the future?
Which gives me all the original components on the original bike. I think almost everything is original (save for tires, tubs, and brake pads). A lot of work to be done.
Hey, since you've done your fair share of restorations, could you answer another question? Rust-- there's a lot of rust on the chromed bits and under the bottom bracket. I'll be cleaning that off, but what do I do to protect the bike for the future?
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