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-   Classic & Vintage (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/)
-   -   28T in 1950's? (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1040217-28t-1950s.html)

iab 12-02-15 05:49 PM
Originally Posted by 1989Pre (Post 18359793)
ia: Does that claw look like it is removeable? The reason I ask is cause I see a GS for sale at a reasonable price, but it does not have the claw.

198
Yes, the claw is removable. But buying a claw separate is sometimes nearly as expensive as just buying the whole shebang.

Also, some differences with the GS. 1951-1952 all sorts of differences but all of them are really expensive. 1953-1957, cable adjustment screw with open "C" stamped on the back. 1957-1960, cable adjustment screw with closed "C" stamped on the back. 1957-1960, no cable adjustment screw.

iab 12-02-15 05:53 PM
Originally Posted by Duke7777 (Post 18360684)
The small difference between chainring sizes allows you to have the jockey cage fairly wound up even when on the small ring.
It was typical for a 1950s road bike to have a 3-tooth difference. Freewheels typically had a 2-tooth difference. The original half-step gearing. A "5-speed" was only 6 effective gears - small ring on 1, 2 and 3, big ring on 3, 4 and 5.

1989Pre 12-02-15 07:24 PM
Originally Posted by Duke7777 (Post 18361099)
In that case, the GS may be a good option. Position the wheel as far back in the dropouts as possible (limited when using a claw hanger), and keep shortening the chain until the derailleur will shift smoothly onto the 28. Then very carefully see how far up the freewheel you can go with the chain on the big ring. It might just all work out fine! Let us know if you try it.
I will. Thanks for all the good suggestions, perspective and technical advice.

198

rhm 12-02-15 09:11 PM
Bear in mind, another option is a hybrid Sturmey Archer hub with two or three cogs and a derailleur. That gives a pretty wide range.

Ed. 12-03-15 07:35 AM
Seems like it wouldn't take much for any reasonable machine shop to make a longer hanger.

juvela 05-20-17 10:50 AM
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Instructions with parts drawings for the Benelux Mark 7:

http://www.peterbrueggeman.com/cr/ca...elux_mark7.pdf


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1989Pre 05-21-17 08:11 PM
Originally Posted by juvela (Post 19597658)
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Instructions with parts drawings for the Benelux Mark 7:

http://www.peterbrueggeman.com/cr/ca...elux_mark7.pdf


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I had to replace the pulley pins on mine (they should arrive this week).
A friend in England told me recently that the Mk7 has a reputation of the pulleys and pins flying apart and to use Loctite on the threads. That's what happened to mine.
I prefer to use the British Benelux over other derailleurs, because my bike is British and the basic Grubb Routier model came with the Mk7

juvela 06-04-17 01:03 PM
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1989Pre has begun a new thread on fine tuning the Benelux Mark 7 rear mech here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-tweaking.html

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