Benelux Tweaking
#1
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Benelux Tweaking
I got my Mk7 r.d. to work and I have been enjoying it. With about 10mm of spacers, I was able to install the claw mount in a position that would allow me to reach the smallest (14T) cog. The chain wrap appears to be what is recommended. Sometimes, the derailleur won't immediately go into the 28T low gear, so I bring it out, back the the 24T, and then if I try again, it will usually drop in.
I took two links out of a 116 link chain, so it is 114, I am pretty sure. The chain is very slack in the 14T cog setting, but I would need a longer B tension screw to bring the body of the derailleur back to take up that slack. Maybe I should have left the chain longer. I'm not sure.
I'm not really sure what role the spring tension plays, but I have it set pretty high. I'm getting all four gears, including 28T, while I am using the 46T (inner) chainring.
I did not know that this type of crankset can not be used with a front derailleur, so I'll be replacing it with a later Williams.
I took two links out of a 116 link chain, so it is 114, I am pretty sure. The chain is very slack in the 14T cog setting, but I would need a longer B tension screw to bring the body of the derailleur back to take up that slack. Maybe I should have left the chain longer. I'm not sure.
I'm not really sure what role the spring tension plays, but I have it set pretty high. I'm getting all four gears, including 28T, while I am using the 46T (inner) chainring.
I did not know that this type of crankset can not be used with a front derailleur, so I'll be replacing it with a later Williams.
Last edited by 1989Pre; 05-05-18 at 06:09 PM.
#2
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Subscribing! What is the problem with the crank set?
#4
multimodal commuter
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It's hard to say, from the photo, but perhaps the front derailleur is mounted a little too high.
The need for spacers indicates the rear derailleur is bent. I don't think I've ever seen one of these (cyclo Benelux, simplex tour de France, etc) that wasn't bent, so don't be alarmed. If the bike falls over on the right side, the derailleur ends up holding the rear of the bike, and it bends. Parallelogram derailleurs, in contrast, deflect (as if you were downshifting) in the same circumstances, so are less likely to get bent.
If you can confirm that the derailleur is indeed bent, and you want to straighten it, alas you have to disassemble it almost completely.
The need for spacers indicates the rear derailleur is bent. I don't think I've ever seen one of these (cyclo Benelux, simplex tour de France, etc) that wasn't bent, so don't be alarmed. If the bike falls over on the right side, the derailleur ends up holding the rear of the bike, and it bends. Parallelogram derailleurs, in contrast, deflect (as if you were downshifting) in the same circumstances, so are less likely to get bent.
If you can confirm that the derailleur is indeed bent, and you want to straighten it, alas you have to disassemble it almost completely.
Last edited by rhm; 06-03-17 at 06:27 PM.
#5
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The crank arm is far too close to the outer chainring to fit a cage in between. Ebay member Velomadison informs us in his current offering description that:
"These are not designed for a front derailleur, rather to be set up with
one or the other for different desired gearing, often with a rear wheel
with butterfly nuts."
There is 1-2mm of space betwen the crank arm and the rivet(s)..
Last edited by 1989Pre; 05-05-18 at 06:09 PM.
#6
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It's hard to say, from the photo, but perhaps the front derailleur is mounted a little too high.
The need for spacers indicates the rear derailleur is bent. I don't think I've ever seen one of these (cyclo Benelux, simplex tour de France, etc) that wasn't bent, so don't be alarmed. If the bike falls over on the right side, the derailleur ends up holding the rear of the bike, and it bends. Parallelogram derailleurs, in contrast, deflect (as if you were downshifting) in the same circumstances, so are less likely to get bent.
If you can confirm that the derailleur is indeed bent, and you want to straighten it, alas you have to disassemble it almost completely.
The need for spacers indicates the rear derailleur is bent. I don't think I've ever seen one of these (cyclo Benelux, simplex tour de France, etc) that wasn't bent, so don't be alarmed. If the bike falls over on the right side, the derailleur ends up holding the rear of the bike, and it bends. Parallelogram derailleurs, in contrast, deflect (as if you were downshifting) in the same circumstances, so are less likely to get bent.
If you can confirm that the derailleur is indeed bent, and you want to straighten it, alas you have to disassemble it almost completely.
It probably is a bit too high. Since it is not compatible with this crank, I'm not worrying about its position right away.
If anything, it appears that the rear derailleur body is pointing starboard, but the leaf spring tube may be a pointing a bit forward. I've had it completely apart, so it's not really a problem assembling/disassembling it. I'll look at photos of some other examples, preferably N.O.S. and see what I can determine.
I'd just like to reel in some of the slack when the chain is on the small cog, but it doesn't skip and I might be able to manage this way. Overall, I'm pleased with its performance already, even now.
#7
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From: Adelaide, Australia
It depends on which of the Cyclo Benelux Mark 7's you have. They came in 3sp 1/8", 4sp 1/8". 4 sp 3/32" and 5 speed 3/32".
the sprocket range was 13T-24T and with a double chainwheel total capacity was 15T.
The RD was not designed for the capacity you are expecting of it.
see Cyclo - Benelux Mark 7 Gear scan 2
the sprocket range was 13T-24T and with a double chainwheel total capacity was 15T.
The RD was not designed for the capacity you are expecting of it.
see Cyclo - Benelux Mark 7 Gear scan 2
#8
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It depends on which of the Cyclo Benelux Mark 7's you have. They came in 3sp 1/8", 4sp 1/8". 4 sp 3/32" and 5 speed 3/32".
the sprocket range was 13T-24T and with a double chainwheel total capacity was 15T.
The RD was not designed for the capacity you are expecting of it.
see Cyclo - Benelux Mark 7 Gear scan 2
the sprocket range was 13T-24T and with a double chainwheel total capacity was 15T.
The RD was not designed for the capacity you are expecting of it.
see Cyclo - Benelux Mark 7 Gear scan 2
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#9
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Benelux Tweaking.
At first I thought this might be a thread on where to score meth in the western European low countries.
At first I thought this might be a thread on where to score meth in the western European low countries.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#10
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My derailleur model will accept both 5- and 4-speed freewheels, although it recommends a 1/8" wide chain for 4-speed and 3/32" for 5-speed. I have to put more miles on it to see whether the r.d. performs reliably with the 14-19-24-28 block, but so-far, so-good. If I have to fidget and fuss a bit, it is worth it to me on this project, to be able to keep the bike as "period" and as British as possible.
If I enounter insurmountable problems, I'll search in earnest for something period, but with a more up-to-date design, like the Simplex RaidExport 32 2nd version. That particular early-60's derailleur is rated for 32T.
If I enounter insurmountable problems, I'll search in earnest for something period, but with a more up-to-date design, like the Simplex RaidExport 32 2nd version. That particular early-60's derailleur is rated for 32T.
#11
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Ah, I see. Thank you.
The crank arm is far too close to the outer chainring to fit a cage in between. Ebay member Velomadison informs us in his current offering description that:
"These are not designed for a front derailleur, rather to be set up with
one or the other for different desired gearing, often with a rear wheel
with butterfly nuts."
There is 1-2mm of space betwen the crank arm and the rivet(s)..
"These are not designed for a front derailleur, rather to be set up with
one or the other for different desired gearing, often with a rear wheel
with butterfly nuts."
There is 1-2mm of space betwen the crank arm and the rivet(s)..
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