Looking for 1 inch threaded headset that isnt ugly
12-14-15 | 05:13 AM
#1
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Looking for 1 inch threaded headset that isnt ugly
So every threaded headset that I've come across has a bulky lock nut and is quite ugly. Does anyone know of a 1 inch threaded headset that has a cleaner look to it? I'm using a quill stem adapter, and while the set up is perfectly functional, it looks a bit funny with the bulky headset.
12-14-15 | 05:39 AM
#2
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From: Louisville, KY
Tange Levin NJS? Campagnolo record?
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12-14-15 | 05:42 AM
#3
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Tange Aero. Welcome to the forum.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.....but good luck.
I sincerely doubt the threaded headset makers had compatibility with the threadless look in mind...
I have a friend that simply used spacers inside spacers to make a more consistent appearance.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.....but good luck.
I sincerely doubt the threaded headset makers had compatibility with the threadless look in mind...
I have a friend that simply used spacers inside spacers to make a more consistent appearance.
12-14-15 | 06:03 AM
#4
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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If you just want a headset with a small nut, I have no idea. If you want a headset which looks like a jewel, the VeloOrange Crand Cru with the silver finish.
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12-14-15 | 07:14 AM
#6
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That said, maybe one of the 80's Campy headsets would look better to your eye? I don't particularly like them, but perhaps its more "modern" look will make it blend in with your threadless bits above.
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12-14-15 | 07:46 AM
#7
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What he said. If the setup looks funny/ugly to you, then I think you will probably need to switch to a threadless fork or give up on the threadless adapter. A threaded headset is never going to be totally "smooth" since you need somewhere for the wrench flats.
That said, maybe one of the 80's Campy headsets would look better to your eye? I don't particularly like them, but perhaps its more "modern" look will make it blend in with your threadless bits above.
That said, maybe one of the 80's Campy headsets would look better to your eye? I don't particularly like them, but perhaps its more "modern" look will make it blend in with your threadless bits above.
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12-14-15 | 08:09 AM
#8
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The Shimano Sante headset maybe? It is very clean looking.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano HP-5000, Sante
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano HP-5000, Sante
12-14-15 | 08:58 AM
#11
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Appearances are a matter of personal taste, but I've had excellent results with the Velo-Orange headsets, both threaded and threadless. They have sealed bearings, which is a plus for me. Prices are very reasonable for a high quality headset. For a more traditional look, Campy Record headset are hard to beat, but will cost a bit more than the V-O models. Shimano Ultegra and Dura-Ace headsets are also excellent, but getting hard to find.
12-14-15 | 12:24 PM
#15
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The Shimano Sante headset maybe? It is very clean looking.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano HP-5000, Sante
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano HP-5000, Sante
12-14-15 | 12:31 PM
#16
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From: Folsom CA
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Threaded headsets look especially terrible when the stem won't come out
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12-14-15 | 12:42 PM
#17
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I recently installed one of these. It's chromed steel and looks nice, to me, anyway. It's rather low end, but I'm not picky.
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12-14-15 | 01:35 PM
#19
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...get yourself one of those Shimano headsets where you need to also buy the special headset wrenches to fit them. Those are very curvy.
This then gives you reason to search for two more outmoded proprietary tools, which, if you are poorly organized, you can lose or misplace. It's a strategy with no downside
12-14-15 | 02:17 PM
#20
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I hear that over and over, that one needs "special tools" to install and adjust those Shimano headsets.
Standard 32mm wrenches is all you need!
But of course they did make special ones, maybe why folks thought they were needed, and which was a clever way to keep softer aluminum wrench flats flat, but hardly necessary since the nuts still have 32mm wrenching flats at their outermost edges where they bear wrenching loads.
The scalloped flats actually saved a bit of weight!
As for the OP's dilemma, perhaps a spacer needs to be made to build up the diameter of the exposed quill?
I've had headsets that sat too tall for the stem to be lowered fully, where a shorter locknut or the elimination of the locknut went with a shortening of the threaded steerer (as here, where I secured the threaded upper with Loctite and eliminated the nut).
Here's another one that begs for a shortened steerer, removal of threaded lockring and shorter top nut. I may do this today, and post the result.
Standard 32mm wrenches is all you need!
But of course they did make special ones, maybe why folks thought they were needed, and which was a clever way to keep softer aluminum wrench flats flat, but hardly necessary since the nuts still have 32mm wrenching flats at their outermost edges where they bear wrenching loads.
The scalloped flats actually saved a bit of weight!
As for the OP's dilemma, perhaps a spacer needs to be made to build up the diameter of the exposed quill?
I've had headsets that sat too tall for the stem to be lowered fully, where a shorter locknut or the elimination of the locknut went with a shortening of the threaded steerer (as here, where I secured the threaded upper with Loctite and eliminated the nut).
Here's another one that begs for a shortened steerer, removal of threaded lockring and shorter top nut. I may do this today, and post the result.
