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How rusty is too rusty?

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How rusty is too rusty?

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Old 01-28-16 | 05:16 PM
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Bikes: Mike Kowal Aravis Touring bike, 1952 Claud Butler Massed Start, 1959 Dawes Red feather, 1975 Carlton Criterium, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper, Bianchi Merlo MiniVelo

How rusty is too rusty?

HI,

I picked up an old frame from the dump that had a few pointers that it was decent (nervex lugs, wheelcraft {famous local wheel builder here in scotland** decals and wheels). It could be a mid 90's Mike Kowal frame but it has some rust issues.

I have removed most of the paint (not original and an ugly fushia pink colour) and 85% of the steel is OK, but the rear triangle is pretty bad. The paint had bubbled in places and the enamel type coating has come off in places. As far as I can see there are no holes, but I need to know if it is worth continuing or just giving up.

My plan is:
clean and sand the frame
Rust eater
primer x2
spray paint x2

Build up as single speed.

Continue or not?
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Old 01-28-16 | 05:27 PM
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I am turned off by pitting, if its gone that far, for me it's too much. Luckily I am in AZ, I rarely see anything with significant amounts of rust, but we have our fair share of sun rot and fade on old finds here.
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Old 01-28-16 | 06:20 PM
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Rust on the surface that level usually means rust inside as well. Must be able to clean, stop all before you can make a sure judgement.

Proceed but be able to bail when good sense tells you it's too far gone.

Good luck.
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Old 01-28-16 | 10:19 PM
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This is the worst I've painted - I was kind of worried about it, but it's ridden over some terrible roads without issue.




Not close-ups of the same areas, but it now looks like this. It took some time with glaze, prime and sand to get smooth surfaces

Last edited by Ex Pres; 01-28-16 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 01-29-16 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres
This is the worst I've painted - I was kind of worried about it, but it's ridden over some terrible roads without issue.




Not close-ups of the same areas, but it now looks like this. It took some time with glaze, prime and sand to get smooth surfaces
Encouraged by this - thanks for these pictures. Quite a bit like picture number two - hoping to end up somewhere very short of picture number three!
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Old 01-29-16 | 05:46 PM
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

[MENTION=251421]AliH[/MENTION], it sounds okay to me, but (a) this is the internet, (b) I haven't seen the bike, (c) what do I know, (d) you have seen it, but (e) what do you know-- otherwise you wouldn't be asking the question.

My vote: proceed. If you have serious concern for the fork, maybe not. Fork failure could be very nasty. Rear triangle failure could be very embarrassing, but is not likely to kill you.

When in doubt, refer to my point (c) above.
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Old 01-29-16 | 05:50 PM
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No - the fork is fine, sweet and chromed slice of tange goodness!
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Old 01-29-16 | 06:07 PM
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Post some photos of the actual bike in question.

I'm working on one with some quite deep rust. So far it seems like it will be ok, but I still have a bit more work before painting.



The Mercier does seem to have these worm-like tunnels under the paint which as far as I can tell are rust, which is a bit concerning

I've been riding my old Colnago for years, and it has built up some rust, mostly surface rust. It'll get stripped.... soon. But, it has gone thousands of miles with decades of wear and some rust.
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Old 01-29-16 | 06:27 PM
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I ride bikes that are 60 or more years old on a regular basis. As you would imagine, bike of this age have rust, much, much more rust than in your pictures, but they are still perfectly safe and ridable. The rust in the pictures you have shown are nothing to worry about what so ever. Just remove the rust with a wire wheel, sander or anti rust gel, then repaint. Or you can just oil it every month or so and the rust will not get any worse. The rust you have is just mere surface rust and has no structural danger at all.
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Old 01-29-16 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by shadaboot28
I ride bikes that are 60 or more years old on a regular basis. As you would imagine, bike of this age have rust, much, much more rust than in your pictures, but they are still perfectly safe and ridable. The rust in the pictures you have shown are nothing to worry about what so ever. Just remove the rust with a wire wheel, sander or anti rust gel, then repaint. Or you can just oil it every month or so and the rust will not get any worse. The rust you have is just mere surface rust and has no structural danger at all.
That's what my friend says, the rust doesn't bother him.
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Old 01-29-16 | 06:58 PM
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mmmm.... that rusty bike looks like a worthwhile project sir! I'm jealous of the rewarding journey ahead of you =)
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Old 01-30-16 | 06:28 PM
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Bikes: Mike Kowal Aravis Touring bike, 1952 Claud Butler Massed Start, 1959 Dawes Red feather, 1975 Carlton Criterium, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper, Bianchi Merlo MiniVelo


I was too scared to post these pictures before, as I thought I might be told to give up - but for know I am continuing!

Wish me luck
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Old 01-30-16 | 06:32 PM
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I'd be most concerned with the BB area and the bottom of the ST -- those fluted posts can send a lot of water down there.
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Old 01-30-16 | 06:35 PM
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You can do what you like. There are people who have fixed worse.

To me, I wouldn't bother. There are a lot of nice frames that are cheap and much nicer than this one. If you wait, they will just show up.
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Old 05-09-16 | 04:10 PM
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Just in the interest of completing the story - 4 months down the line. Done
Not perfect but not a bad.
Frame unknown make but does have Nervex Seres Legere lugs - probably 50's or 60's at a guess
Newer Tange Chromed forks
ITM bars
SR stem
Headset was a newish 105
Replaced the Formos brakes with Weinmann 730's from my local salvage guy and used the Dia compe levers
Standard shimano cranks and crappy wellgo pedals with a new sealed bottom bracket
43 tooth Thorn chainring
KMC chain
Shimano BMX 16 tooth freewheel
Wheels are pelisier hubs with alex rims that Big Al from Wheelcraft (same as the Wheelcraft decals on the forks) built for an old Dawes that I have. The wheels I pulled off this bike are normandy and sunshine hubs and Wolber 27" rims that I'll put on my old dawes.
Tyres are panaracers
New Brooks special
New cables etc

Rides nice and I'm satisfied - what more do you need!?!

P.S. I spent 2 weeks burning the stuck alu seatpost out with caustic soda - thought it was never going to come!!
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Last edited by AliH; 05-09-16 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 05-09-16 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by AliH


Just in the interest of completing the story - 4 months down the line. Done
Not perfect but not a bad.
Frame unknown make but does have Nervex Seres Legere lugs - probably 50's or 60's at a guess
Newer Tange Chromed forks
ITM bars
SR stem
Headset was a newish 105
Replaced the Formos brakes with Weinmann 730's from my local salvage guy and used the Dia compe levers
Standard shimano cranks and crappy wellgo pedals with a new sealed bottom bracket
43 tooth Thorn chainring
KMC chain
Shimano BMX 16 tooth freewheel
Wheels are pelisier hubs with alex rims that Big Al from Wheelcraft (same as the Wheelcraft decals on the forks) built for an old Dawes that I have. The wheels I pulled off this bike are normandy and sunshine hubs and Wolber 27" rims that I'll put on my old dawes.
Tyres are panaracers
New Brooks special
New cables etc

Rides nice and I'm satisfied - what more do you need!?!

P.S. I spent 2 weeks burning the stuck alu seatpost out with caustic soda - thought it was never going to come!!
I salute your tenacity! You came out with a great looking bike.
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Old 05-09-16 | 05:08 PM
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Great job on rescueing that frame ! It looks more then ready to give you much more appreciated miles before it ultimately ends it's journey.

I throw my hat in the air!
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Old 05-09-16 | 05:09 PM
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Your last line says it all, if you like the results, and they are some good results, then it was a success. I like the looks of your bike, that was a lot of work on your part, and you got a lot of good advice and input from here that you seem to have put to work. Kind of a modern path racer, with hand brakes, good job, Ali, good job.

Bill
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