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Adjusting Centerpulls... is it possible?

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Old 02-09-16 | 04:38 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 2manybikes
The straddle cable is too long. There are different lengths. Take yours off, measure it then get the shorter one from Amazon. Really ! I bought some from them !! This allowed me to stop as good as brand new double piviot caaliper brakes with salmon pads and an aluminum rim.
No need for a new cable. On MAFACs they're adjustable. On the end that's anchored to the brake you can loosen the nut, adjust the cable length as desired and snug the nut down again. Nothin' to it!

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ps - LOVE my MAFACs. Not quite as stiff as modern short-reach dual pivots, but I'll put 'em up against ANY other rim brake (except maybe Magura hydraulics) for power and modulation.
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Old 02-09-16 | 04:43 PM
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I haven't had to adjust very many centerpulls, but I've never had a problem doing so.
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Old 02-09-16 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rando_couche
No need for a new cable. On MAFACs they're adjustable. On the end that's anchored to the brake you can loosen the nut, adjust the cable length as desired and snug the nut down again. Nothin' to it!

SP
OC, OR

ps - LOVE my MAFACs. Not quite as stiff as modern short-reach dual pivots, but I'll put 'em up against ANY other rim brake (except maybe Magura hydraulics) for power and modulation.
read post # 18
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Old 02-10-16 | 02:13 AM
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...I'm really surprised by all the MAFAC h8erz in this thread. I have probably had, over the years, fifty or sixty bikes with MAFAC centerpull brakes, and they all modulated and stopped just fine. If there is a drawback to them, it is the lack of a quick release, other than the straddle cable end. So the kludge for that was (is) to swap out the levers for something with a release, or to use something inline on the cable.

Any centerpull brake from the glory days of them has the obvious advantage of dual pivots, while most (if not all) of their sidepull contemporaries were single pivot. Just don't get the hate.
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Old 02-10-16 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
Just don't get the hate.
lack of experience, patience, ability and taste.
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Old 02-10-16 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
.
...I'm really surprised by all the MAFAC h8erz in this thread. I have probably had, over the years, fifty or sixty bikes with MAFAC centerpull brakes, and they all modulated and stopped just fine. If there is a drawback to them, it is the lack of a quick release, other than the straddle cable end. So the kludge for that was (is) to swap out the levers for something with a release, or to use something inline on the cable.

Any centerpull brake from the glory days of them has the obvious advantage of dual pivots, while most (if not all) of their sidepull contemporaries were single pivot. Just don't get the hate.
Love centerpulls, which is why I was willing to lay out the money for the Paul Racers. They take centerpull technology and ability to a very new level. The ones I pictured earlier are the standard size. Some day I might invest in a the smaller version to run on a more race oriented road bike.
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Old 02-10-16 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
.Just don't get the hate.
Me neither. No hate coming from this direction. Mine work as well as any other CPs, which is to say quite well.

Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Love centerpulls, which is why I was willing to lay out the money for the Paul Racers.
Bob, those black calipers look pretty slick on that black bike. Betcha' they stop well too!
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Old 02-10-16 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rando_couche
Not quite as stiff as modern short-reach dual pivots, but I'll put 'em up against ANY other rim brake (except maybe Magura hydraulics) for power and modulation.
Master of understatement?

"Modulation" is a marketing term for flex.

I hate squishy brakes...
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Last edited by rmfnla; 02-10-16 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 02-10-16 | 12:34 PM
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Here's my third hand tool. A couple of bucks at the hardware store. Just clamp the pads to the rim.
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Old 02-10-16 | 12:35 PM
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I'm also a big fan of most centerpull brakes. I have a set of Paul's racers, too, and they're great. I bought them after having great luck with my brazed-on Dia Compes that were totally impressive.

One time I set up the Paul's with the normal coin's-worth of toe-in, and found they squealed a lot, and then remembered they recommend zero toe-in. I did that, and they've been fine ever since.

I recently replaced a set of cheap, old plastic frame-mounted cantilever calipers with ultra cheap v-brakes on my city bike, and for the life of me I couldn't stop the squealing. I figure the problem was either related to the fitment on the frame-welded pivots, the flex in the fork, or some other thing outside the control of the manufacturer of the brake. I replaced them with some middle-end modern Shimano MTB V-brakes (perhaps 15-20 USD) and the problem went away, even with cheap brake shoes.
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Old 02-10-16 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jeirvine
Here's my third hand tool. A couple of bucks at the hardware store. Just clamp the pads to the rim.
That's much better than my way.

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Old 02-10-16 | 07:51 PM
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Can't comment on MAFAC racers, since I've never had any, but the MAFAC competitions I set up on my CILO bike with KoolStop pads worked perfectly from the get-go with no issues.
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