I'm taking the plunge (well, some frames are, anyway) and trying to get rid of some rust issues with an OA bath. I've already got the OA, and a container I think that will be suitable, and one frame stripped down. Are there any things I should do during it - take it out from time to time and wipe it down, for instance? Anything that needs to be done post bath? I have frame saver for the inside. I'm using the KISS method, so the simpler the recommendations the better. I don't see myself boiling linseed oil and keeping up with keeping the outside of the frame coated with it, unless that's truly what it will take.

Thanks all!

Once rust has been removed via the OA bath, I typically neutralize it by soaking in a mixture of baking soda and water, then thoroughly drying, then using frame saver. No need to disturb the part while soaking in OA -- just let the OA do its work.

If it will be awhile before painting, you can spray it with WD-40. I have three frames that have not been painted for a couple of years and they are doing fine without paint. I use one once in a while and just wipe it down after a ride.

Nobody boils linseed oil. They buy boiled linseed oil, which I understand isn't actually boiled.

I've had some heavily rusted parts that seem to have gotten clean faster by taking the part out of the bath and stirring the mix a bit. Maybe I'm just using a a fairly week concentration of OA/water.

Depending on how strong you mix it, it can take 20 minutes up to a couple days to get it all done. It doesn't hurt to take out the part and check the progress, get fresh solution in contact.

I've always just rinsed stuff off that got cleaned with oxalic acid. If it's good enough for my pots, it's good enough for a bike...

Yeah, they just put japan drier or the equivalent in it to get it to dry.

You actually can buy real boiled linseed oil from an art supply store, but it costs much more than what hardware store BLO costs. IIRC tru oil gunstock finish is actually boiled also.

How do people deal with the moisture that is introduced inside the tubes by soaking the frame, particularly the top tube, seat stays, and fork.
Seems like it would take a long time to dry and likely rust while doing so.
I'm skeptical frame saver would work if sprayed while the inside of the tubes is still wet.

Season to taste. Seriously, wear rubber gloves. It can cause irritation, or worse, and does get absorbed through the skin. I then add baking soda directly in the bath before dumping the OA water. If you go too heavy with the OA concentration or leave it in too long, it can leave a bit of a yellow film on the frame which can then be wiped off with cleaners or paint polisher (if the frame still has paint). If you see some OA crystals at the bottom, you can stir the mix some more to dissolve, but no need to take out the frame during the bath. I usually add roughly 1 spoonful per gallon and find it takes about 24 hours--give or take depending on the level of rust and condition of the frame. The frame should be clean and free of excess gobs of grease or grime.

You say you *think* you have a suitable container. I have a stain on my garage floor from a recent OA bath. The inflatable pool must have had a pinhole prick in it, and now my cement garage floor has a slightly bleached circle.

Hair dryer.

Compressed air.

I find you have to RUB it a little with a cloth to get all the rust off, if you just soak it and gently pull it up it won't seem like all the rust is gone, but wipe it down with a terry cloth and you'll see just how clean it is (or if it needs more soak-time). I don't find neutralizing is required nor a clean water rinse-out since the slightly acidic solution when dried inside the tubes doesn't seem to cause harm: worst case is that if moisture invades the interior it might just re-activate the tiny residue of OA and that wouldn't be so bad....but YRMV.
I always use some kind of waxy-oil to coat the inside of ALL steel frames: cheapest is BLO, most costly is FrameSaver but I have also used WaxyOyl (only in UK, I think) Boeshield and LPS #3 ...which all work well, too. I think WD40 is a waste of time/money for this purpose, but it's probably as cheap or cheaper than BLO.

Thanks so far all. I spied an empty clear Rubbermaid that looks big enough for a bike frame in the garage. I've got 80% of the grease/grime off. Another 20 minutes and I should be as grime free as I'll get it. No plans to strip/repaint this frame. Rust isn't bad, but there are a few places that need a bit of love. I was really happy with how it was cleaning up with just degreaser.

A few things I do that has helped out when using OA for rust removal from parts ( I haven't done a frame yet ),

If I only have a few parts that need attention I use distilled water instead of tap water, using a tub that is 2 gal or less.

Anything more then a few gallons of water I use Tap, but I also use a hot/warming tray/plate under my tub ( Something I read somewhere that stated keeping the OA warm works better ) . I also have a little water pump that was a replacement for a table top fountain, it has suction cups for feet and I stick it to the tub for circular flow. The pump helps with sediment build up ( yellowing ) from using tap water and/or mixing problems.

Glenn

...I do this outside, in some large plastic tublike container that was cheap at the the Home Depot over in the storage bins aisle. Seriously, the stuff is absorbable through the skin, and you don't want to be breathing the vapors, or doing this without gloves. Oxalic acid concentrates as crystals in the kidneys.

My stuff (cheapest and easiest to apply) for the frame interiors is this stuff, recommended to me by the local frame builder here. Also from Home Depot in the paint department.



Because it's in a spray form (I think it's just a linseed oil base with a propellant), you can spray it through the little red plastic tube into the brazing holes in the seat stays. Otherwise, those can be problematic to oil without a syringe. Takes a day or two to dry, might benefit from a second application if you are OCD.