I've had my Eddy Merckx for over 30 years and it was my primary rider for about 20 of those years. As I've aged the bike doesn't fit my less stretched-out and more upright position. About 15 years ago during one of our relocations the movers didn't pack the bike correctly and the paint on the top tube was totally trashed. So I had Spectrum Cycles refinish the bike so it is not original. So would love to know your thoughts. I have been thinking about (1) using a converter stem to use the threadless stem which will allow me to raise the bars and shorten the reach, (2) set the rear spacing to 130, (3) find 10 speed Campy derailure set and levers along with polished finish and square taper BB crank to convert the bike to modern shifting. Also, I was thinking if I did this to keep the Super Record seat post and brakes calipers to keep some of the original look. Am I crazy to do that?

Nope. Sounds like a great way to keep you and that beauty on the road. Best wishes.

No, not crazy. But I don't think the changes will really make the bike that much more useful to you, particularly the 10-sp gearing.

+1

Go for all 3! Git 'er done and be ridin'! That's a really nice frameset so I think its worth the upgrade. I used to have the stem conversion thing on an older Lemond Malliot Jaune steel frameset. It worked a-ok for me before I broke the seat tube above the bottom bracket and had to replace it.

Edit: You could also sell the older Campy Super Record parts to recoup some cost.

I question the need to go to a threadless stem. There are long threaded stems with very short reach that might accomplish what you want with fewer changes.

You aren't going to race it so set it up like you want comfort wise but leave the drivetrain alone. Enjoy, impressive steed for 30 yrs you have there!

was it the right size for you to being with? That saddle looks way high.

Anyhow, you just get a nitto technomic stem for cheap and see how it feels.

He'll get the extra flexibility to easily flip and/or replace the stem with another size. I know classic bikes look nice with a quill stem. But since this is a daily rider, then why not opt for more convenience?

I forgot to mention that for the groupset change, you will need to replace the rear wheel at least. Might as well sell the current wheelset and get another 9/10/11 speed compatible wheelset. Judging from the frame size the OP seems to be taller than I am. So would recommend 32-spoke x3 wheelset for front and back for indestructable daily riders. Or 28-spoke x2 for something a little more sporty.

Some might cringe given that classy build but I would go cheap and just update the stem to a 25.4 Nitto technomic (modern technomic is 26 and needs a shim), or a dirt drop mt10 w/ 100 reach. That would bring you much more upright, the other changes sound fine too if you want to spend $. I have upgraded two tour like bikes to nitto dirt drops and like the bar position much better for those rides but different geometry from your EM.

Just get a raised MTB quill stem and ride it. I personally wouldn't change the group.

Thanks for the flow of responses.

I was also thinking of going with the compact gearing on front. That is what I did with my mid-90's Merckx, which is the bike I usually ride. I just finished converting the stem on it, though the stem is a little short as it was one I had in the box it is close. I probably will go 1 cm longer. This one had the correct spacing so didn't require cold-setting the rear triangle. These wheels are 32 hole and seem to be good. Being a bigger guy (200#) I like more spokes.



On the saddle height, I have a 94cm inseam measurement, so really long legs and then a short torso as I'm only 6'1" so bike fit has always been a problem. :-) So in the old days I would stretch out and was good with more drop. You can see how crazy my bikes look in these pictures.

The problem I have the the Super Record group is I purchased the parts over time so the brake calipers the last generation and don't match age with the derailleur a crank. I would probably sell the wheels and I wouldn't have a bike that would use them. I have two sets, one sew-up and one clincher both 36 hole. I know I had talked about going compact on the gearing but wondered is you can get chain rings to make the original SR crank work with 10 speed?

I wouldn't bother and just replace the crankset. Assuming you could mount the proper chainrings, you still might not have the correct spacing between them and might not have the right chianline.

I'm with the others on the threadless stem - use a Nitto Technomic instead. 41T is the smallest chainring that will fit a SR crank, due to the bolt circle size - if you want lower than that you will have to change the crank. You could convert it to a triple though, there are inner chainrings which have a mount for the granny ring but that would almost certainly require a longer BB spindle as well.

this is just me ... i'd use a short cinelli stem (90mm) and move the levers up where i could ride the hoods more easily.

if it still was uncomfortable due to top tube length, i'd sell it.

i think you're right in line with what I would do, except I'd look for an even older two-bolt Campy seat post because the precise adjustability is so much better!

Nice bike! Make it work well for you.

Paul J, actually I did a similar rebuild with a 1984 Mondonico. I would be glad to share any of my experience you might want to access.

Hobo bars!

If it is again going to be your daily driver and not a "Sunday go to Starbucks bike" I agree with your approach, the fit needs to be right, compact gearing is nice, etc. That said there are little things to watch that can help with appearances like using something like a Delta alloy threadless adapter and a polished stem rather than what Paul J has above which to me makes the head tube assembly look disjointed.

I will be contrarian. Take the bike with the mod stem and go get a good pro fitting. Make the changes, ride it THEN map out the way to fit the yellow bike.
From the description on your physique and looking at the bikes I just have a hunch that a fresh look is in order.

Dollars to donuts that you are shorter today than 30 years ago, all in the torso, just increasing the problem.

It's your bike and you have a history with it so of course you can do as you like. But personally I'd keep it as is and pass it on to the next lucky rider. Then I'd get something that better fit my needs. If speed, ergonomics and/or comfort were Paramount then I'd go modern.


But whatever gets you on the road and happy.

Look for a Nitto Deluxe stem, which has a longer quill and can be found in shorter reaches as well (eg. 80-90-100mm). If you raise the stem higher, that also shortens the reach. I have a Nitto Deluxe on several of my bikes and it is very high quality, equivalent to the Pearl with a longer quill. My bikes are all set up with the handlebar about the same height as the saddle, and that shortens the reach quite a bit. The Nitto Technomic stem has an even longer quill and is available in wide range of reaches.

Paul - I'm fairly sure I ran into you at a brewery in lancaster. If you are who I think, welcome!

This isn't a bike you're selling, you don't care about value and it's an old friend you'd like to spend more time with. Update it however you see fit! I love the combo of classic steel and modern parts...and I did the same thing as far as keeping the seatpost old as a hint of class on one of my bikes. I'd probanly use either Ultegra or centaur; whichever floats your boat. I'Ve been using 105 11sp recently, and it's nice, but after all these years the Shimano trim still freaking sucks and has to be constantly tinkered with.

I second everyone on the Nitto Technomic - awesome stem for dialing in fit.

I too have long legs and short torso. My Bianchi limited is my favorite fit. On it I have gone from quill stem to adapter and a Specialized adjustable angle stem. It comes with whims of various angles to alter height as needed. I love it and have actually used it on my Felt as well. If you want to stay with polished, Velo Orange offers many polished stems and an adapter....Threadless Stems - Stems - Components