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Suggestions: lugged touring frames
Hey All,
I want to collect some opinions on lugged steel touring frames. I'm currently riding an 87 Super Sport that I like very much, but I want to transition to something that can take wider tires, fenders, and some weight on the rear rack (mainly my two year old daughter). I'd like to stay reasonably priced without getting junky, and am thinking that moving my components to a blank frame would be the most economical. So what's good? |
Miyata 210 or 610 (or 1000 if you get really lucky), Trek 720 (the road bike), Fuji America - there are plenty of other viable candidates.
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I stole this from somewhere but most of these models will suit you and many of them are overlooked----I see cheap Nishikis and Univegas all the time and they are fantastic frames built in Japan.
Bruce Gordon Berthoud Mercian Bob Jackson Viliers Velo Paul Hewitt Ellis Briggs Woodrup Koga Bridgestone RB-T Bridgestone T-500 Bridgestone T-700 Centurion Pro Tour 15 Centurion Elite GT 15 Fuji Touring Series IV Fuji Touring Series V Kuwahara Caravan Lotus Odyssey Miyata 610 Miyata 1000 Nishiki Continental Nishiki Cresta GT Nishiki International (note, not all years are full CrMo or full touring) Nishiki Riviera GT Nishiki Seral Novara Randonee Panasonic PT-3500 Panasonic PT-5000 Panasonic Pro Touring Panasonic Touring Deluxe Raleigh Alyeska Raleigh Kodiak Raleigh Portage Raleigh Super Tourer Raleigh Touring 18 Schwinn Paramount P15-9 Tourer Schwinn Passage Schwinn Super Sport, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur/Voyageur SP Specialized Expedition Specialized Sequoia Trek 520 Trek 620 Trek 720 Univega Gran Turismo Univega Specialisima Roberts |
I own an 87 SS and they are nice. I would not take the 600 components, transfer them to a touring frame and call it done though. Different animals.
Most touring rigs take Triples up front with a FD that can handle it plus the brakes are canti's that touring favors. The SS has racing Cinelli bars which would get old on long tours. Shifting for touring is better with barcons or brifter set ups not down tubes. The rear freewheel needs to be bumped up to a wider gear range for a touring rig. You might want to go with a Sport tourer type and forgo the full touring idea. That still gives you relaxed geometry, racier components and room for fenders and rack attachments. |
If you like your '87 Super Sport (I like my '86!) you could compliment it with similar vintage Voyageur. They both are built on similar Tenax frames but the Voyageur has longer stays to place the rear wheel more rearward for fenders and heel clearance with panniers, has cantilever brakes, triple crankset, and rack bosses and double eyelets front and rear.
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I hate to be that guy who tells you to use the search function, but there have been some long threads on the C&V subforum about vintage touring bikes with lots of excellent photos. You will likely find much more information there than starting a new thread.
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-bicycle.html http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ing-bikes.html |
Originally Posted by T Stew
(Post 18674417)
If you like your '87 Super Sport (I like my '86!) you could compliment it with similar vintage Voyageur. They both are built on similar Tenax frames but the Voyageur has longer stays to place the rear wheel more rearward for fenders and heel clearance with panniers, has cantilever brakes, triple crankset, and rack bosses and double eyelets front and rear.
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Originally Posted by tarwheel
(Post 18674427)
I hate to be that guy who tells you to use the search function, but there have been some long threads on the C&V subforum about vintage touring bikes with lots of excellent photos. You will likely find much more information there than starting a new thread.
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-bicycle.html http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ing-bikes.html |
Originally Posted by tarwheel
(Post 18674427)
I hate to be that guy who tells you to use the search function, but there have been some long threads on the C&V subforum about vintage touring bikes with lots of excellent photos. You will likely find much more information there than starting a new thread.
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-bicycle.html http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ing-bikes.html
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 18674474)
+1 so true.
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Originally Posted by oddjob2
(Post 18674512)
... and as fast as IBM's Deep Blue?...
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Shogun Alpine GT. I'm looking at one next week.
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Originally Posted by Pemetic2006
(Post 18674753)
Shogun Alpine GT. I'm looking at one next week.
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Been there ... done that with a 1971 Nishiki. I naively happily rode one for 20 years, but the late 1970s and early 1980s Nishiki frames are much nicer. A Cresta would be a good choice, if you can find an owner who wants to part with one.
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Originally Posted by bike sloth
(Post 18674182)
Hey All,
I want to collect some opinions on lugged steel touring frames. I'm currently riding an 87 Super Sport that I like very much, but I want to transition to something that can take wider tires, fenders, and some weight on the rear rack (mainly my two year old daughter). I'd like to stay reasonably priced without getting junky, and am thinking that moving my components to a blank frame would be the most economical. So what's good? Oftener than not it isn't economical to swap components. There typically will be unforeseen costs and compatibility issues with the seatpost, BB, etc. IMO you are far better off searching for a mid 80s era touring bike complete. They often sell for pennies on the dollar compared to the original prices. That said, the main thing with vintage is to take advantage of whatever opportunities present themselves, so if you find a Univega Specialissima or Miyata 1000 frameset on craigslist or whatever for cheap, buy it! |
I have an 84' Nishiki Cresta I believe, but a road version meaning it doesn't have cantilevers. It can haul a decent amount of weight, but the max I've put on the back rack was about 50 pounds. It handled it and nothing broke. However, I have to say I thought the frame was a bit soft with just me on it, but with 50lbs of sound equipment (let alone your child) I absolutely would decline because the thing felt like a noodle.
My Surly Travelers Check with those S&S couplers, which I hear makes it stiffer, handles weight like that all day without complaint and feels oh so poised. Would this perhaps be a role best suited to a MTB re-purposed to a touring rig? I only know my Surly and my early 80's Cresta so please keep that in mind. I'm comparing an early 80's noodle and something rather modern with oversized tubes. |
Originally Posted by carbomb
(Post 18675240)
Would this perhaps be a role best suited to a MTB re-purposed to a touring rig? I only know my Surly and my early 80's Cresta so please keep that in mind. I'm comparing an early 80's noodle and something rather modern with oversized tubes.
If the budget can take it, SOMA and VO both offer a variety of modern heavy duty off roadable touring frames in the $500 ish range. They'd be a bit more rugged for hauling a kid. |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 18674810)
Those are nice.
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I'll forewarn you that tire clearance on vintage touring bikes is usually very limited compared to today's standards. Due to the brake bridge on my Miyata 610 and 215, I can barely clear 32's with fenders, and don't have much more room at the bottom bracket either.
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Side thought -- why not a vintage MTB drop bar conversion? Plenty of nice vintage MTB frames, and clearance for fatter 26" tires. I can run 2.1+ on my Schwinn with fenders.
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I have a Miyata 610 with cantilever brakes and I'm able to run 35mm with fenders.
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Originally Posted by jet sanchEz
(Post 18674280)
I stole this from somewhere but most of these models will suit you and many of them are overlooked----I see cheap Nishikis and Univegas all the time and they are fantastic frames built in Japan.
Originally Posted by seely
(Post 18675398)
Side thought -- why not a vintage MTB drop bar conversion? Plenty of nice vintage MTB frames, and clearance for fatter 26" tires. I can run 2.1+ on my Schwinn with fenders.
Mid-'80s Raleigh MTBs would be a good choice; they were lugged, had long chainstays and, IIRC, a couple of them had three water bottle mounts instead of the usual two. |
Originally Posted by Tandem Tom
(Post 18675416)
I have a Miyata 610 with cantilever brakes and I'm able to run 35mm with fenders.
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I think OP should just shop opportunistically - whatever comes along at a good price. Look for the cantis, the longish chain stays and give it a shot if it fits and it's cheap.
And don't overlook the Cannondale ST models. If you want the best mix of stiffness/lightness/stability, there you go. I'm a recent convert - and I still like a lugged steel touring bike, too - but I haven't ridden one that stacks up to a C-dale in those regards. Mine fits 35mm tires w/fenders, would probably go to 45mm without. |
1980's high end lugged frame mountain bike. Fuji Mt. Fuji, KHS Montana Summit, are the ones I have or had. (the Fuji was stolen. I know WHO, but he has friends in the cop shop, so they will not touch him)
I've been updating the KHS; 7 speed 14-32 rear cluster, 22/32/42 crank (want to swap that 44 with a 36 or 38, I'm old, my racing days were over 50 years or so ago, if I even had racing days) Solid heavy duty rear rack designed and marketed for touring ... The goal is an any terrain touring bike, hopefully with low enough gearing that I do not have to stand up (or push) going up anything short of a cliff. |
Originally Posted by John E
(Post 18674901)
Been there ... done that with a 1971 Nishiki. I naively happily rode one for 20 years, but the late 1970s and early 1980s Nishiki frames are much nicer. A Cresta would be a good choice, if you can find an owner who wants to part with one.
I'm reasonably new to old bikes, but that one has stuck out in my mind as a thing of beauty. |
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