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-   -   Trek 2120 frame advice (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1065665-trek-2120-frame-advice.html)

jjarratt 05-28-16 08:32 PM

Trek 2120 frame advice
 
I recently got this Trek 2120 handed down to me from a friend's dad. It is one of those early carbon fiber/aluminum frames. What do people think about the frame?


http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psdkqz9bvi.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps84v9ga1x.jpg

It looks fine everywhere else, but this one spot is concerning. Should I be worried about riding this frame, and/or is there something I can do to repair it?

Thanks.

Lascauxcaveman 05-28-16 10:50 PM

Welcome to the forums!

Looks like a paint/clearcoat problem to me; but I didn't ride mine (a 2100) long enough to find out how sturdy it was; frame was too small, so I sold it. You could try holding the front brake tight and rocking the bike back and forth against your weight to see if you detect any movement in the affected joint. If it doesn't budge, it's not a guarantee the frame is safe to ride, but if it does, it's a guarantee that it's not.

The 'weave' on the carbon looks completely different form my 2100, though. Do you know what year yours is?

JohnDThompson 05-29-16 07:11 AM

Paint cracking at the joint is common on these bonded-tube frames, but seldom indicates a structural problem. It's just that the epoxy in the joint is more flexible than the paint covering it, leading to cracked paint. Trek re-formulated their paint to minimize the problem, but still it's been 25-30 years since these frames were built.

Chombi 05-29-16 07:14 AM

Could be electrolysis between the CF and the Al lug occuring there, that's why the bubbling of the paint and clearcoat starts from the tube/lug seam and outwards. Not good if the corrosion extends to under the tube and the lug, as it will start attacking the glue bond between the two.
You might be lucky and might have caught this before it got into the glued area. As the paint damage seems to have gone quite far down the the top tube and lug already, you might consider refinishing the headstock and top tube (or the whole frameset) to totally clean off what hopefully is just surface damage. Many here had already done CF/Al framesets with visible weaves with great success in the past few years. Do a search to find out how it's done. You'd be surprised how it's not such a complicated process, just a lot of elbow grease, care and patience with sanding off the clearcoat finish on the CF tubes, and polishing the Al lugs (if you want to show them off.).
BTW, the down tube at the headstock seems to have it's clearcoat finish also clouding up and possibly separating from the tube. If it is, the more reason to do a full frame refinish.....

jjarratt 05-30-16 09:33 AM


Originally Posted by Lascauxcaveman (Post 18805211)

The 'weave' on the carbon looks completely different form my 2100, though. Do you know what year yours is?

I'm not sure which year exactly, but either 96 or 97 based on color scheme. The paint is glossy, so I'm leaning 97.

From Vintage-Trek.com
96, ice forest green, natural carbon tubes, green decals
97, gloss ice forest green with natural carbon tubes with ice forest green decals

JohnDThompson 05-30-16 11:24 AM


Originally Posted by Chombi (Post 18805518)
Could be electrolysis between the CF and the Al lug occuring there, that's why the bubbling of the paint and clearcoat starts from the tube/lug seam and outwards. Not good if the corrosion extends to under the tube and the lug, as it will start attacking the glue bond between the two.

These frames had a fiberglass sleeve between the tube and the lug to prevent this problem. FWIW, the Trek bonded aluminum frames also had a tendency to develop cracks at the glue joint, for the same reason I gave above.

Chombi 05-30-16 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 18807882)
These frames had a fiberglass sleeve between the tube and the lug to prevent this problem. FWIW, the Trek bonded aluminum frames also had a tendency to develop cracks at the glue joint, for the same reason I gave above.

I'm aware of the joint insulating materials that manufacturers added to later 80's/Early 90's Al lugged CF bikes, but I'm wondering if the insulation extends to the face of the ends of the CF tubes, where the CF and Al materials might still contact each other, which might explain the corrosion still occuring at the lug/tube seams of these bikes. I suspect that if the corrosion is not arrested and cleaned off soon enough, the corrosion on the Al lug can still progress and eventually start compromising the glue bond......

JohnDThompson 05-30-16 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by Chombi (Post 18808101)
I'm aware of the joint insulating materials that manufacturers added to later 80's/Early 90's Al lugged CF bikes, but I'm wondering if the insulation extends to the face of the ends of the CF tubes, where the CF and Al materials might still contact each other, which might explain the corrosion still occuring at the lug/tube seams of these bikes.

The aluminum lugs have ribs to provide glue clearance. The fiberglass sleeve slips over these ribs, and once in place there is no contact between the lug and the tube; just glue. That actually is one of the contributing factors to the joint flexing that cracks the paint there.

jjarratt 05-30-16 04:42 PM

Sounds like I should just sand the affected area and refinish with paint and/or clear coat? Anything I'm missing?


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