Trek 2120 frame advice
#1
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Trek 2120 frame advice
I recently got this Trek 2120 handed down to me from a friend's dad. It is one of those early carbon fiber/aluminum frames. What do people think about the frame?


It looks fine everywhere else, but this one spot is concerning. Should I be worried about riding this frame, and/or is there something I can do to repair it?
Thanks.


It looks fine everywhere else, but this one spot is concerning. Should I be worried about riding this frame, and/or is there something I can do to repair it?
Thanks.
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Welcome to the forums!
Looks like a paint/clearcoat problem to me; but I didn't ride mine (a 2100) long enough to find out how sturdy it was; frame was too small, so I sold it. You could try holding the front brake tight and rocking the bike back and forth against your weight to see if you detect any movement in the affected joint. If it doesn't budge, it's not a guarantee the frame is safe to ride, but if it does, it's a guarantee that it's not.
The 'weave' on the carbon looks completely different form my 2100, though. Do you know what year yours is?
Looks like a paint/clearcoat problem to me; but I didn't ride mine (a 2100) long enough to find out how sturdy it was; frame was too small, so I sold it. You could try holding the front brake tight and rocking the bike back and forth against your weight to see if you detect any movement in the affected joint. If it doesn't budge, it's not a guarantee the frame is safe to ride, but if it does, it's a guarantee that it's not.
The 'weave' on the carbon looks completely different form my 2100, though. Do you know what year yours is?
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#3
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Paint cracking at the joint is common on these bonded-tube frames, but seldom indicates a structural problem. It's just that the epoxy in the joint is more flexible than the paint covering it, leading to cracked paint. Trek re-formulated their paint to minimize the problem, but still it's been 25-30 years since these frames were built.
#4
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
Could be electrolysis between the CF and the Al lug occuring there, that's why the bubbling of the paint and clearcoat starts from the tube/lug seam and outwards. Not good if the corrosion extends to under the tube and the lug, as it will start attacking the glue bond between the two.
You might be lucky and might have caught this before it got into the glued area. As the paint damage seems to have gone quite far down the the top tube and lug already, you might consider refinishing the headstock and top tube (or the whole frameset) to totally clean off what hopefully is just surface damage. Many here had already done CF/Al framesets with visible weaves with great success in the past few years. Do a search to find out how it's done. You'd be surprised how it's not such a complicated process, just a lot of elbow grease, care and patience with sanding off the clearcoat finish on the CF tubes, and polishing the Al lugs (if you want to show them off.).
BTW, the down tube at the headstock seems to have it's clearcoat finish also clouding up and possibly separating from the tube. If it is, the more reason to do a full frame refinish.....
You might be lucky and might have caught this before it got into the glued area. As the paint damage seems to have gone quite far down the the top tube and lug already, you might consider refinishing the headstock and top tube (or the whole frameset) to totally clean off what hopefully is just surface damage. Many here had already done CF/Al framesets with visible weaves with great success in the past few years. Do a search to find out how it's done. You'd be surprised how it's not such a complicated process, just a lot of elbow grease, care and patience with sanding off the clearcoat finish on the CF tubes, and polishing the Al lugs (if you want to show them off.).
BTW, the down tube at the headstock seems to have it's clearcoat finish also clouding up and possibly separating from the tube. If it is, the more reason to do a full frame refinish.....
Last edited by Chombi; 05-29-16 at 07:19 AM.
#5
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From Vintage-Trek.com
96, ice forest green, natural carbon tubes, green decals
97, gloss ice forest green with natural carbon tubes with ice forest green decals
#6
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Could be electrolysis between the CF and the Al lug occuring there, that's why the bubbling of the paint and clearcoat starts from the tube/lug seam and outwards. Not good if the corrosion extends to under the tube and the lug, as it will start attacking the glue bond between the two.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
I'm aware of the joint insulating materials that manufacturers added to later 80's/Early 90's Al lugged CF bikes, but I'm wondering if the insulation extends to the face of the ends of the CF tubes, where the CF and Al materials might still contact each other, which might explain the corrosion still occuring at the lug/tube seams of these bikes. I suspect that if the corrosion is not arrested and cleaned off soon enough, the corrosion on the Al lug can still progress and eventually start compromising the glue bond......
#8
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,411
Likes: 5,350
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
I'm aware of the joint insulating materials that manufacturers added to later 80's/Early 90's Al lugged CF bikes, but I'm wondering if the insulation extends to the face of the ends of the CF tubes, where the CF and Al materials might still contact each other, which might explain the corrosion still occuring at the lug/tube seams of these bikes.





