A Paramount question
#1
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Newbie
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Missouri
Bikes: 1989 Paramount 66cm
A Paramount question
I am contemplating an upgrade on my 89 Paramount. Sram's Etap looked like the ideal way to add electronic shifting without all the wires, zip ties, boxes, etc., required with Di2. Unfortunately I cannot install Etap unless I spread the rear dropouts from 126mm to 130mm. Has anyone done this? What does this entail? Will it adversely alter the handling, integrity, durability, esthetics, paint, etc.? I'm assuming this should be done by a professional. Thanks.
#2
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Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Midwest
Bikes: See the signature....
While cold setting the rear dropoutz would be the "correct" method, alot of people simply spread the rear drops by hand while installing the wheel. The reaf triangle sbould easily give. Its only 4mm.
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My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '84 Trek 770, '85 Centurion Cinelli
My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '84 Trek 770, '85 Centurion Cinelli
#3
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
For a steel frame, a spread of 126mm to 130mm should be no problem at all.
I spread my UO-8 from 120 to 123mm (ultra-6) and my Capo Modell Campagnolo from 120 to 126 (standard 6-speed), all without any issues whatsoever.
Electronic shifting is the one form of post-friction transmission control which actually interests me -- let us know how the project goes!
I spread my UO-8 from 120 to 123mm (ultra-6) and my Capo Modell Campagnolo from 120 to 126 (standard 6-speed), all without any issues whatsoever.
Electronic shifting is the one form of post-friction transmission control which actually interests me -- let us know how the project goes!
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#4
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
See how difficult it is to fit the new hub between the drops. It just might prove the need to cold set the stays is not really needed, at all.
If you do cold set the stays, ensure that the stays remain centered to the center line of the bicycle. Also, check to ensure that the drops are square and parallel to one another. Have a look at Stringing Your Frame Set and you will have a better understanding of how to go about this sort of thing.
Hope that helps.
If you do cold set the stays, ensure that the stays remain centered to the center line of the bicycle. Also, check to ensure that the drops are square and parallel to one another. Have a look at Stringing Your Frame Set and you will have a better understanding of how to go about this sort of thing.
Hope that helps.
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#5
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,488
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
1989 Paramounts came in two flavors, Columbus SLX (SL/SP mix on larger frames) or True Temper OS. Neither is heat treated, so you should be able to cold set the rear triangle to 130mm OLD without any problem. I have successfully cold set 120mm to 130mm rear dropout spacing on chromoly frames. The key is to ensure the two sides are spread equally so that the frame is correctly aligned, and that the rear dropouts themselves are parallel to each other after cold setting.
If you have any doubts that you can do this yourself, then by all means have a qualified person (experienced LBS mechanic or a framebuilder) do it for you.
Sheldon Brown explains the cold setting process HERE.
EDIT - The dropout alignment procedure is now a separate page on Sheldon's website.
If you have any doubts that you can do this yourself, then by all means have a qualified person (experienced LBS mechanic or a framebuilder) do it for you.
Sheldon Brown explains the cold setting process HERE.
EDIT - The dropout alignment procedure is now a separate page on Sheldon's website.
Last edited by Scooper; 06-23-16 at 08:51 AM.
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