jimmuller 

I finally did some non-riding bike stuff yesterday. The from tire of the PFN10 had pick up a puncture. Stan sealed it up but it would hold no more than about 100psi without blowing again. So yesterday I glued up another tire and mounted it.

Another task volunteered itself on the horizon. I rode the new-to-me '77 Gazelle to work. With about two miles to go home something started going thump thump thump with every pedal revolution. I could hear it and also feel it in the frame. Shifting the rear didn't change the synchronization with the pedals. Shifting the front didn't either, suggesting it wasn't loose chain ring bolts. Some play seems to have developed in the BB. The crank arms are not loose on the crank spindle. So I'll be pulling the BB apart eventually, probably find a broken bearing.

JaccoW

So you went for a classic green in the end. Looking forward to see how you restore such a classic Dutch bike.

Interesting. I didn't know such a thing existed. So does the external ring work through friction or something?

Did some work on a Koga-Miyata GentsTour which I will probably be selling to a friend. It's mish mash of parts I gathered through the years but all quality stuff.
Swapped lots of parts over from the Gazelle Lausanne including the wheels. I think it looks rather nice.

Still need some more cables and a chain. Other than some rust treatment.

verktyg 

A mid 70's De Rosa and a mid 70's Masi have been on my bucket list for years. I retired at the end of January.

I was lucky and got a great deal on this early 80's De Rosa frame complete with a brand new Chris King headset. I would have preferred a flat top fork crown but I can't complain.

It's my retirement gift to myself.

Work in progress: Since this photo I've installed Campy Doppler Retrofriction shift levers, an SRAM PC890 "silver" chain plus C-Record dual pivot brakes. Waiting for some yellow brake cable housing to proceed.

The crank is an NOS Campy Competition Triple that I assembled with 50T-39T-32T chainrings - for old man gears.

The frame had been spread to 130mm. I was lucky and found these almost NOS Campy wheels with a custom 13T-30T Campy 8 speed cassette at a local bike co-op. Tires are Continental 700c x 25 Grand Prix Classics.

It took some trial and error with chain length and derailleur adjustments to get the shifting to work smoothly. The Campy braze-on Chorus??? front derailleur doesn't play nice with the small chain ring so I have a Campy Veloce Triple 9 speed FD coming.

There is a LOT of gear ratio overlap but with the 8 speed I can stay in either the 50T or 39T and use the 32T x 30T for a bailout gear. I may decide to go with a double if shifting becomes too much of an issue.



verktyg

ryansu

Had that happen back in the days when I just had BSO Motiv MTB from Costco, I was riding on the trail and thought I was passing a pile driver on the slew but I looked and no pile driver...thump ..thump ..thump. ..wait that is ME! it was the cheap bb causing the problem so you are likely on the right track. Hope it is back to quiet operation with some new bearings

2cam16

Maintenance work on the shock on one of my bikes. Fun as always! :

IMG_7963 by 2cam16, on Flickr

ryansu

I am looking to sell last years clunker challenge a 1990 Bianchi Ibex I find I like but don't love, I had put on new tires and matched a front wheel to the rear but noticed when checking the shifting I was getting ghost pedaling. My research pointed to a gummed up FW as the culprit



4 prongs?

Turns out the Suntour 7 speed FW needed a 4 prong puller (FR-3) which I had to order. And then when I went to pull it the FW didn't want to budge



Did someone say stuck?

That is until I introduced the FW to Archimedes my breaker bar. That did the trick. I found the FW was dry as a bone so it got a liberal dousing of WD 40, I let it dry for a day and then dribbled 3-1 oil into the seams around the center hub and gave it a good spin. Its now back on the bike and showed no more ghost pedaling in the stand. Now it just needs a test ride and then I'll pop it on CL.

88Tempo

91 Schwinn CrossCut I'm trying to make a dropbar bike out of.
Continental Tour Ride 700x42
Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters
Deore XT hubs in Rhynolite rims
Soma Highway One bars
Shimano Exage 400LX BioPace crankset (original to the bike) looking at replacements right now.

Shifts good on the trainer, but the weather hasn't cooperated so no test ride yet.

noglider 

Yes, the ring uses friction. It seems like a good idea, but the drag is so negligible that it's not really necessary. I used the feature on Sunday for perhaps the first time, as I took a 45 mile ride without either of the lights on the bike, so there was no reason to keep the dynamo engaged. Normally I keep the lights on in the day because the prices is very low, and it just might enhance my safety.

That GentsTour is clearly much too small for you, so it's good you're passing it on. How tall are you? Perhaps even tall for a Dutch person?

JaccoW

That's my rationale as well for running lights during the day. So far it seems to have worked.

My own bikes are in the 63-66cm frame range and the Koga-Miyata is a 57cm. I'm ~192cm (6'3") but with most of my length in the legs.
I would consider myself a little above average in length for a younger Dutch person but I have people around me who are a head shorter and half a head taller. So yeah.
The inside of my legs to the ground is ~95cm (37.4'') though in comparison to my father, who is 195cm (6'4") I have much longer legs. To the point that he cannot ride my bikes without dropping the saddle a bit.

The Koga is going to a friend of mine for the price of the parts. But that should get him a pretty nice bike for some long-distance touring. So far it feels surprisingly lightweight in the hand.

sykerocker 

Digging into my backup commuter, a 1969 Raleigh Sprite 5-speed (Sturmey S5), which has a very annoying problem: I get a loud 'click' from somewhere in the crank, on the left side when the pedal is at about the 10 o'clock position. The harder I hammer on the pedals, the louder the click. Every revolution, and always the left pedal in that position.

Been working the problem backwards. Replaced the left pedal, no effect. Discovered the cotter wasn't filed proper, and there was a little slop in the left crank arm. Refiled the cotter, replaced, no effect. Now I've got the bottom bracket out, cleaning everything, checking the bearings, cup condition, etc. Will report back once I've done the rebuild.

Anyone with ideas on the problem's opinion will be appreciated.

Three hour later update: Redoing the bottom bracket seems to have corrected the problem.

jbchybridrider 

I've decided how this frames going to be finished. Sanded main tubes, lotus metallic grey lugs
I have the sanding technique sorted and think it looks better than polished. The lot will be clear coated so the alloy maintenance problem will be fixed.

JaccoW

What kind of frame is that? Looks like stainless steel tubes but it's no Bridgestone Submariner.

jbchybridrider 

89-90 Sakae Litage.
Your answer was in my text but I'm pleased your initial thought was it's stainless because that's the effect I'm trying to create. You can see original raw alloy finish if you scroll up the thread a bit but I just got the technique better here with new 600 grit paper, any smoother I can't get a consistent finish

jbchybridrider 

I've got some left over Lotus metallic grey from a bull bar I painted to use on the lugs. Will make a nice contrast from the main tubes I think.

noglider 

@sykerocker, I've found that sometimes I repair a problem by disassembling the component, finding nothing wrong, putting it back together and never learning what the problem was. But it's solved. Maybe that will happen with your BB.

I'm afraid to take cottered cranks apart because of the likelihood of unanticipated problems like ruining the cotters and not finding suitable replacements. Or like working on it for hours. I recently refurbished a 1969 Raleigh Record at the bike coop. I got it ready for sale. I overhauled the front hub and headset, and I wanted to put grease in the BB, but those cotters have probably been in there for 50 years, and I didn't want to mess with them.

sykerocker 

Yeah, that's exactly what happened. I notice I still get one (or maybe two) click(s) in first gear as I stomp on the pedals to climb my driveway, which is a moderate grade. Other than that, nothing. I'll live with it.

With that problem taken care of, the bike still has two issues: The short term is a desperate search for a S-A bracket small enough in diameter to clamp tightly to the left rear stay and allow me to use the left side over/under drive lever. I've tried shimming the slightly too large clamp I have and it only works for one shift. Maybe.

The second problem (and this is a repeat) is to find yet another unobtanium S/A white plastic dual shift lever. I snapped the right one last year bumping it with my knee getting off, and have it replaced with a usual handlebar lever. No big deal, as I know how difficult they are to find. And given that I've broken two of them during my ownership of the bike, if I find a third I'll probably mount it, but not hook it up.

JaccoW

Like this one? Such as on this Raleigh Sprite?

BoozyMcliverRot

You will have a fun bike when finished. I just did kind of resto mod on a Cross Fit.

88Tempo

Nice looking bike, I wish mine was in that good of condition. 22" CrossCuts have been few and far between in my area. I passed on a Miyata Triple Cross a while back that was in nice shape now I'm kind of wishing I'd grabbed it.

ryansu

Shiny - very cool

SurferRosa

You know you're in bad shape when ...

You spend 2.5 hours in transit to buy a rattle canned '89 schwinn world sport for its parts.



Yeah, I know. That's messed up. A world sport? Dude must be desperate.

But it was $50, and had:

- a matching 27" wheelset (I hope to use for a Batavus frame)
- cheap, but brand new tires
- cheap, but cool looking pedals
- nice, fluted seatpost
- perfect looking bars that need no polishing.

I tossed only the turkey levers and saddle.

Winning?

merziac

In a futile attempt to move the needle at the Albany show, I installed a correct Stronglight Competition cottered crankset, some very period looking to me but way not correct MKS all steel chrome quill pedals and oldschool looking plain black "tractor" tires.

No luck at the show, but still very happy to find, acquire and install a/the correct crank, Stronglight later BB cups and generic spindle that all work fine.

The Paramount did get big kudos from several showgoers including one gentleman who commented "it is the most significant example here".

repechage

Merziac- the bike looks quite proper, but not show winner Paramount white or Siren, vote for me, I'm sexy, Red.
(note, for the age of the bike the typical set up would show less seatpost and stem... at least if ordered by a Schwinn dealer)

Nemosengineer 

Installed a Dura-Ace 4410 headset and fitted the Mafac cable stop for the bonded aluminum Sakae CX frame.





: Mike

Dean51 

Installed a straight block freewheel on my beat up Ciocc Mockba 80 this afternoon. A 13 <--> 19 seven-speed Suntour New Winner in this case. I'm "jonesing" to ride this now. The only salvation is that I'll be turning it with 34 and 48 tooth chainrings.

Sign me....."Mr. Corncob"!

Dean


IMG_3451