I know there are GOOD threads here on the subject, with a variety of techniques, I've read them, but for the life of me I can't find them using the search feature.

I am interested in the "Drain Cleaner" method. I already bought the correct product last year for the same purpose, but it turned out the stem was not anodized and I was able to go directly to the polishing stage.

I have a new project and the component IS anodized. And not nearly shiny enough.

Can anyone tell me the correct/safe drain cleaner-to-water ratio and the approximate bath time? I remember something about changes in the color and/or foaming, and a rinse procedure, but I am unable to recollect the specifics.

THANKS!

A tablespoon per gallon of water is my all purpose ratio. Bath time is dependent on temperature, depth of anodising, etc. Best to just check the part every 15 mins or so. Simple rising by dumping the part in a bucket of clean water.

Good luck.

Thank you. It's clear anodizing. What is the best way to determine when it's all off?

It can be difficult to see but you will know for sure once polishing begins. I have yet to have one come out perfect first try but I do the oven cleaning route. I clean as mentioned then spray again when I see areas not cleaned.

I may have to try this, if you get good results post up your process.

Rob

this should help
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespee...ml#post3677840

Rinse it off. Dry it. And hit it with a shot of Mother's or similar. If you rag turns black, it's off.

Thanks everyone.

Do not use drain cleaner. Buy anodizing remover Jestco Products Buffing Supply - Anodize remover - 16 oz. (Powered by CubeCart)


When I see somebody telling you to check the part "every 15 minutes" I cringe. It should take just a couple of minutes or less if you have mixed the solution right. If the part has any steel/non-alloy pieces present you really want to get it in and out as soon as possible.


When the anodizing is gone there will be a black or gray residue left. You must remove this immediately. Use a brass bristle brush under running water to do that. It's important to remove this oxidation quickly and thoroughly rinse the part of any stripper.


Wear long gloves, and eye protection. A respirator is advised if you have one. If not do not hover over the pot.

Yep, that's the best, but $2.89 and I can strip a few stems using a lye based cleaner.

I trust myself to watch it, and have done it dozens of time. For a rookie, or an expensive part, spring for the good stuff, but ain't nobody here gonna spend top dollar on a part we're stripping.

Drain cleaner? When in my younger days I took an aluminum pie tin with a little bit of water and put ONE tiny granule of Drano on the water. That little white pellet sizzled and danced across the pie tin. Dangerous and damaging potential would steer me to get another wheelset.

Ditto 100%. And if you need further details: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...anodizing.html

DD

Update:

Yesterday I removed the anodizing from my new aluminum Crane Bell so I could polished it up proper.

It went from a dull satin, including manufacturing stretch marks to a flawless mirror.

I decided against chemicals because I came up with and idea, and it worked!

From removing it from the bike, to reinstalling it, I did it all in just 30 minutes.

"How?" you ask. Sure, I'll tell ya.

I cheated. That's right. I eliminated all those hours of hand sanding by cheating.

I took a 3 inch bolt with the same diameter as the bell hole, and a nut to lock it in place from the underside. The bolt extended downward, think umbrella. Then I put the bolt into the chuck a cordless drill. Voila! A mini-lathe-thingymabobber.

A few hundred RPM of time saving goodness. Like a pottery wheel, but hauling ass.

Attack with sand paper, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500. Like ten minutes instead of three hours. Schmooooooth.

But still dull.

Then the fun part. Old T-shirt and Blue Magic metal polish. Did 4 rounds of that. Looks like an $800.00 chrome plating job.

Pics? Nope. I tried. My low end Fuji camera refuses to focus on it. "Subject too reflective" according to the manual. Seriously.

My **** is too shiny for photographs.






** Do not attempt this with a quill stem or cranks.

What works on Hard Anodizing? I have a set of NOS Mavic GP4's that I would like to do but I am a little Leary about it.

I wouldn't go near that. The anodizing has to have a structural component to the rims. Buy the colour rims you need,

I once took a pair of these to an anodizing shop to see if they could strip them. By the time the anodizing came off all the steel eyelets had disintegrated!

Ok guy's Thanks. Back to the drawing board.

I've used EZ Off Oven Cleaner- it worked well. I sprayed it on, let it sit, hosed it off, rubbed it, sprayed more on, let it sit, hosed it off, rubbed it, then Mothers polished it. Came out glorious.

Yeah it sucks how these otherwise really nice rims always look like hell from the ano being worn off in spots on the sidewalls.



One idea I thought of was to make a cutter that would just skim cut the sidewalls. So you could have a nice polished sidewall with the dark ano intact on the rim center face and a clean edge between the two.


You would have to cut them as very true and round built wheels. But I was thinking you could make lathe style cutters that would mount on brake calipers, then use a frame to make the cuts. Or something similar with abrasive pads instead of cutters. Again the wheels would really have to be true and round or it could get ugly. But they were already ugly.


Anyway, not something I'd ever spend the time on these days.......................


I