https://goo.gl/photos/bgty5Txebh6EADip7

trying to put up the picture and i cant sorry guys

https://goo.gl/photos/EdCf2xtBHv8w2qAf6

..

What is it? Suggestion: post overall drive side of the full bike, close ups of the head badge, any graphics, the seat cluster, the head tube, drop outs, and the bottom bracket.

Looks to be a Raleigh Gran Prix which has had its fork replaced with one of those horrid Rampar Akisu items.

Resembles a dump find.

sorry new to posting pictures

i'm having such a hard time posting pictures lol. this is the other bike

That last one is a BRC. So what do you guys think is it worth trying to fix them up or a waist?

Remove the turkey levers, move the stem shifters to the downtube for a cheap/easy improvement.

Good call, I concur.

Could still turn into a pleasant rider, though.

So it's
worth fixing

You have not communicated anything as to what information you are looking for here.

Bikes fell to your possession and you are asking about what to do with them?

Bikes thinking about purchasing?

Bikes wanting to get rid of?

Their instrinsic value is nil. Many readers would not wish to bother with them. If your aim is to learn about doing bicycle work they would be a perfectly fine place to begin. No shortage of knowledgeable advisors here at the forum.

Yeah they fell in my possession free. I was looking to buy something new but was thinking maybe to fix one of these up cheap to ride around or possibly commute to work once in a while. Maybe turn one into a freewheel/fixed gear. I don't know anything cheap that works i guess lol. If it's cheaper than buying a new bike I'm in.

Drive side photos are mandatory around here.

Pick the one that fits you best and take the best parts between the two frames to make one decent bike. Neither have cottered cranks, so that will make life easier. Perfect bikes to tune and learn maintenance on, should be smooth riders too.

I find it suspicious when a bike falls into possession free and it still has a lock attached. (That is a lock on the rear end of the Raleigh, right?) Not making any accusations, but the vague acquisition history does make me wonder if there's more to the story. That said, assuming my suspicions are unfounded...

I've fixed worse, but I didn't expect to make much of a profit and I enjoy rescuing neglected old bikes. I also have all the required tools. At a minimum, both should get new tires, tubes/tires, cables, brake pads, so likely $100-$150 investment, plus all the time for cleaning and repacking all the bearings with fresh grease. Whether it is worth it depends on how much you value your time. In the end, you'll end up with bikes that are worth about what it will take to fix them--if you fix them well and no other major issues arise.

The replacement fork on the Raleigh is a red flag, as it's often a sign the bike was damaged in a front-end collision. Check for bulges on the top and down tube. Also, is the non-drive-side seat stay bent near the top?

I am not familiar with the BRC model. Looks to be a lower end model with significant rust issues on the front fork.

Might be better off to keep looking for other projects before investing further in those.

They're going to get thrown out by my brother who is a manager at an apartment complex. So no stolen bikes lol. But thank you this is what I need you hear. I don't have any special bike tools. But pretty much have anything else that would probably get the job done I'm sure. Assuming it could possibly cost around 100 to 150$ cost to much for me. Thanks again

When contemplating a bicycle for oneself frame size is quite important. The BRC looks to be what they would have called in its day a 25" frame ~64cm center-to-top measure. The Raleigh may be slightly smaller at 24 1/2" center-to-top measure. Both of these machines are made for quite a tall rider, perhaps in the range of six foot three inches.

Rider needs to be able to straddle frame with feet flat on ground for safety. When frame too large one gets into the situation of "the bicycle riding you."

Rule of thumb that I was taught for sizing is, that if it fits relatively well with 100mm of seat post out of seat post tube and 80-100mm stem length then from there it is just adjustments of seat height and stem length to dial in perfectly.
As far as pics go, are you loading from your computer or device or a Photo hosting website?

I have only been able to load a single photo from my iPad but can load 5 with ease directly from my computer, simply click Go Adavnced at the bottom of the box you are typing in and then scroll down until you see Manage attachments and go from there, and as the guys are saying drive side pics(other side from the pics you have done) outside or against a light background will help us Eagle eye folk point out the good and not so good

Welcome to C & V hope you enjoy it a good bunch on here that will help where needed.

Paul.

Spanners 8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15mm and Allen keys 2-2.5-3-4-5-6 mm and some tyre levers and a good pair of Wire cutters from the likes of Knipex, Park Tools, Ice Tools or Cyclo Tools (maybe other types in the USA that will fit the bill) are a must if you start doing more bike work, after that a pedal wrench, and once your experience gets better(unless you are already in the know) spoke wrench, wheel truing stand etc.
Tools listed at the beginning of my post should have a cost of no more than $100.

Sell them for 30 bucks each and you will save money not buying tires, tubes, etc. You should be able to find a nice bike for 200.00

In Mother Russia, bicycle rides YOU.

I'd really appreciate a drive side photo and the serial number from the BRC. You don't see them too often, especially the early ones. This was a Richmond BC based brand, so I'm assuming the the OP is Canadian or from the Pacific Northwest region of the USA. They really didn't get wide distribution until after ATBs became popular. TIA.

Undo the bolt on the "Turkey-Levers aka Suicide Levers" amd toss that alloy part and the nylon bushings. Carefully file a flat on the part of the brake pivot that's sticking out. Remove a stems mounted shifter but keep the parts in order. Look at one of the peces that has the rectangualr hole in it. File another flat opposite to the one you filed and file the two flats until the rectangular hole of the shifter piece fits over the pivot sticking out of the brake body. Once you have those flats done install the shifter onto that part and use the bolt and washer from the "Turkey Lever" to secure the shifter. Get new cable housing and wrap it tightly onto the handle bar so that the ferulle is at the edge of the rear of the brake lever body. Insert a new shifter cable into the shift lever from the backside (closest to the handlebar) then feed that into the housing andrun it to your derailler. Repeat forthe other side. VOILA! You now have brake body mounted shifters like these.

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 01 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 03 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 04 by Miele Man, on Flickr

You operate them with your finger or your thumb.

Cheers

Awesome! Lemons into lemonade...