Curious about this Raleigh Record
#26
Full Member

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 310
Likes: 26
From: Chattanooga, Tn
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Record, 1987 Schwinn Prelude, 1971 Raleigh Record, 1988 Schwinn Traveler, 1967 (?) Carlton Super Course, 1959 Huffy Sportsman 3 speed, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, yet another 70-something Raleigh Record
Hey, I've got 2 Records, a '71 and '77. Both are 26 tpi. The '77 was the first year they had a cotterless crank, and its spindle was a 5S. Apparently you have to use a 5 series spindle or one for a 70 mm bottom bracket (Italian). I haven't checked it out myself, but a place called Husky Bicycles has a 5S spindle listed for about $4. I recently have got my '77 working with a Sakae triple by replacing the spindle with a 5N, but I wouldn't know where to get another one of those.
#27
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,717
Likes: 10
From: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright

IRD is copying the style now in 130 bcd, but nothing looks as racy as 144.
Last edited by bulldog1935; 08-16-16 at 06:39 AM.
#28
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,717
Likes: 10
From: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright
If push comes to shove on your BB threads, there are two choices - the spendy one is Phil and White BB with their Raleigh cups.
A lot more reasonable is VO threadless BB
A lot more reasonable is VO threadless BB
#29
certainly looks like there is a lockring on the adjustable bb cup.
wrt the fixed cup - as you were likely able to see when you removed it there IS a lip. it is small and is intended to fit into the countersunk face of the fixed side of the shell. this is how they were made, a stock configuration.
wrt the fixed cup - as you were likely able to see when you removed it there IS a lip. it is small and is intended to fit into the countersunk face of the fixed side of the shell. this is how they were made, a stock configuration.
#30
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,320
Likes: 6,605
From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
This bike would be fine for touring. If it still has steel rims, it won't brake well when the rims are wet. But having said that, I toured in the 70s when most bikes had steel rims, and I survived. On the other hand (have I run out of hands yet?) it was harrowing for a few moments when I really needed to brake and couldn't. So if you're going to take a tour, use good brake pads and have aluminum rims.
Don't remove the fixed cup unless you really need to. Well, you've done it already, but if you don't need to replace it, don't remove it again.
Don't remove the fixed cup unless you really need to. Well, you've done it already, but if you don't need to replace it, don't remove it again.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#31
There is, I was just mentally backwards with the bike upside down.
I'll be honest: I've been making a lot of visual/mental/speech/typing mistakes lately that make me look like I'm full of crap. Having serious communication problems. I keep joking and blaming it on lack of coffee, but I've either got something medically wrong (unlikely) or the hardcore stress I've been dealing with from work has seriously added up, and the extra daddy-tasks at home are probably contributing. I'm not getting to spend my 1-2 hrs per day in the shop and haven't been for the better part of a year now. /rant
(That said, I appreciate everyone's patience and tolerance to my foot-in-mouthing, especially [MENTION=20650]T-Mar[/MENTION], [MENTION=27118]Grand Bois[/MENTION]and others...)
I just looked again - there is no lip on the fixed cup. It's the exact same shape as the adjustable cup. In fact, they look interchangeable. Want me to take some profile shots?
I'll be honest: I've been making a lot of visual/mental/speech/typing mistakes lately that make me look like I'm full of crap. Having serious communication problems. I keep joking and blaming it on lack of coffee, but I've either got something medically wrong (unlikely) or the hardcore stress I've been dealing with from work has seriously added up, and the extra daddy-tasks at home are probably contributing. I'm not getting to spend my 1-2 hrs per day in the shop and haven't been for the better part of a year now. /rant
(That said, I appreciate everyone's patience and tolerance to my foot-in-mouthing, especially [MENTION=20650]T-Mar[/MENTION], [MENTION=27118]Grand Bois[/MENTION]and others...)
I just looked again - there is no lip on the fixed cup. It's the exact same shape as the adjustable cup. In fact, they look interchangeable. Want me to take some profile shots?
#32
Ok, nobody told me the fork ends only accept a small diameter axle 
I test- fitted a pair of Maillard+58 Wolber wheels I had laying around just to see how much lighter it was without the crankset and SA wheelset. Rear wheel popped right in, front ... no such luck. No amount of huffing and puffing would massage it in.

I test- fitted a pair of Maillard+58 Wolber wheels I had laying around just to see how much lighter it was without the crankset and SA wheelset. Rear wheel popped right in, front ... no such luck. No amount of huffing and puffing would massage it in.
#33
You will also need to reset the blades if you wish to employ a one hundred mm front hub. This should be done on a fork alignment jig such as the Park or the VAR. As mentioned above the stock setting will be something like eighty-nine or ninety-three.
wrt bb fittings -
here is a NOS TDC set in the Raleigh pattern made for 26TPI shell. at first glance the adjustable and fixed cups appear identical. however, the fixed cup lacks threads all the way out to its outer face. this is how it wedges itself into the shell. shells intended for these cups are not simply faced on the fixed side but counterbored as well.
wrt bb fittings -
here is a NOS TDC set in the Raleigh pattern made for 26TPI shell. at first glance the adjustable and fixed cups appear identical. however, the fixed cup lacks threads all the way out to its outer face. this is how it wedges itself into the shell. shells intended for these cups are not simply faced on the fixed side but counterbored as well.
Last edited by juvela; 08-22-16 at 09:01 PM. Reason: addition
#34
here is a NOS TDC set in the Raleigh pattern made for 26TPI shell. at first glance the adjustable and fixed cups appear identical. however, the fixed cup lacks threads all the way out to its outer face. this is how it wedges itself into the shell. shells intended for these cups are not simply faced on the fixed side but counterbored as well.
I've got a couple of 70mm cotterless axles in the bins, so I planned to tinker with this sooner than later just to see if I can find a combo that works and gives decent chainline using the stock cups, unless you've got other suggestions?
#35
The Maillard hub needed just a slight fork spread (2mm-ish) to drop between the fork ends, so I'm guessing it's 93mm. The irritating part was the opening was only wide enough for the solid axle on the SA hub. I have a pair of suitable Atom hubs with solid axles, but I was hoping to avoid building another wheelset.
As mentioned before, I was stuck in French-land and in the process of "taking off" the fixed cup, I got another 3/4 turn tightened inward (using 24" Crescent, so lots of leverage applied). Curious how this was possible?
I've got a couple of 70mm cotterless axles in the bins, so I planned to tinker with this sooner than later just to see if I can find a combo that works and gives decent chainline using the stock cups, unless you've got other suggestions?
As mentioned before, I was stuck in French-land and in the process of "taking off" the fixed cup, I got another 3/4 turn tightened inward (using 24" Crescent, so lots of leverage applied). Curious how this was possible?
I've got a couple of 70mm cotterless axles in the bins, so I planned to tinker with this sooner than later just to see if I can find a combo that works and gives decent chainline using the stock cups, unless you've got other suggestions?
the fastest & easiest manner to open them is with a die grinder. if one not available it can be done by hand with a file. a few minutes patient work will accomplish the task.
wrt to the machine's fixed bottom bracket cup:
as mentioned above the fixed side of the shell is counterbored to accept the unthreaded shoulder of the fixed cup. what was achieved with the large spanner was a slight enlargement of the counterboring in the manner of a trumpet bell.
wrt to reusing the cups with a cotterless spindle/chainset:
this is easily managed as pointed out by Ol Danl above with the use of a "Type II" asian spindle nr. 5S or 5N. nr 5N is nominally for single plateau gearing but yields a good chainline in this application.
#37
I just realized I never posted pics of this once complete back in 2017. Figured I should for memory's sake.
I realize it's not a looker and I didn't go overboard for something of its grade, I still feel like I did it justice. Patina was left intact on purpose.








I realize it's not a looker and I didn't go overboard for something of its grade, I still feel like I did it justice. Patina was left intact on purpose.








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#38
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very nice job; thanks for posting
one thing i always enjoy seeing on the Record models of this era is their employment of Vagner flat top crowns
pretty much any other manufacturer or nation would be using a welded crown on a cycle at this price point
are those Formosan brake cable anchors we see on there; do not recognize them
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very nice job; thanks for posting

one thing i always enjoy seeing on the Record models of this era is their employment of Vagner flat top crowns
pretty much any other manufacturer or nation would be using a welded crown on a cycle at this price point
are those Formosan brake cable anchors we see on there; do not recognize them
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#39
I agree on the Vagner. I think it's a DP+? I was Lyon a year before the pandemic. Good times.
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