I wanted to ask my fellow vintage bike junkies their advice for restoring this 1957 Flying Scot. It has original paint that is in rough but lovely shape. I am not considering a full restoration with paint and such. I love the rough patina, the history and would like to keep that. I have plenty of garage queens with their glossy paint. I like this barn-find look.

What would you recommend as a restoration for this bike? I plan to ride it in the CA Eroica and as a Sunday rider. I would like to not over-restore it but I am not sure about what steps and what level restoration/cleaning I should do. Repacking of all bearings is a must, adding Frame Saver, but what about...

How best do I clean/preserve the frame and keep the patina?

How much cleaning should the components and wheels get?

If you had this bike what level of restoration would you perform?

Cheers,

GG

photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/758367...57671430221320





DSCF1529 by dspeirs, on Flickr

DSCF1572 by dspeirs, on Flickr

DSCF1573 by dspeirs, on Flickr

IMG_4199 by dspeirs, on Flickr

IMG_4240 by dspeirs, on Flickr

You mentioned in the earlier thread on it that the single plateau gearing would not be adequate for use in the Eroica. So do you envision a conversion to two plateau gearing?

The condition and completeness is incredible. I'd gently cleanse it and repack the bearings and then wax the frame, new tires of course. It's amazing. The saddle looks barely ridden!

Wear a good pair of walking shoes? Train harder? Seriously, I am not sure. I just may have to move my Campy NR with the Soma extended cage over and swap in a nice big freewheel for the ride. I haven't crossed that road. I would love to enter it into the show on Saturday.

I learned how to sail on a Flying Scott.

I don't see any "restoration" needed. The bike looks complete and well preserved, and really very lovely. I would clean and wax the outside, repack the bearings, and do all that kind of thing. Those GB brake levers originally had half hoods with windows for the adjusting wheels; those are hard to find. I have a pair that I could never bring myself to use, just seemed too precious.

What are the rims and tires?

I would consider upgrades. Consider, that is; look at the options, and see how much it would change the bike. Specificlly:

I would look for a pair of 700c rims that don't look too modern, a 32H one for the front and a 40H one for the rear. Sun CR18 can sometimes be found in this pattern. If I could find a good pair of rims, I'd probably upgrade the rims. Alternately, just find a second pair of wheels for regular use.

And I would look for a second chain ring. I think your crank is a standard 116 mm BCD, and I think your chain ring bolts are bolts with sleeves (that is, they thread into a removable sleeve, not into the crank arm). So I think you can fit a 40t ring off a cheap Nervar crank (Raleigh Record, Peugeot UO8, etc). If so, then a Gran Sport (or even Valentino) front derailleur and double shifters... and you're good to go.

I concur with rhm. It would be cool to keep that 48T ring as an outer. If you add a new 6-bolt inner, I think that 6-bolt 157mm BCD pattern will limit you to 45T, which will give you a beautiful half-step with a 2-tooth progression in back, but that may not be as low as you wanted to go. (See attached photo of my 3-to-6-bolt Simplex adapters, which I use with 49-46 or 49-45. Since your 48T already has the 6-bolt circle, you would, of course, not need the adapters.) The standard 116mm BCD 3-bolt pattern will let you go down to 36T, but you will need a new pair of rings if you go that route.

The GS rear will take a 26T low gear cog, perhaps even a 28 with a single chainring or a half-step, if you adjust your chain length and rear axle fore-aft position judiciously. I run mine with a 14-26 ultra-6 freewheel, and it might have enough throw to take a standard 6 or a 7-speed, at most.

Very nice bicycle with no problems a pair of KoolStop brake pads and perhaps new rims and wider gear range would not solve.

Superhoods also had the full hood
see the 'Rubber Accessories' section in https://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...20Library).pdf
and this was in the same time frame as your Coureur Plus brakes.

they are available: bagged black GB Superhood brake lever hoods vintage retro l'eroica NEW | eBay

to see what else was available for bikes in 1957 have a look at Holdsworth's Aids
https://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...20Library).pdf

I think it is wrong to heavily modify a bike to ride a manufactured event. (Erocia). Ride the bike equipped for the period in which the frame was made. If that means walking up some of the hills, then walk up some of the hills.

ditto

I would evaporust the whole thing and then wax it well with a good grease job on the bearings and moving bits
I would also change the cables and housing with something close to period correct and save the old ones with a good grease on the cables and a good cleaning on the housing. I would also replace the brake pads and maybe build up some new alloy wheels that are similar to the originals and save the old ones.
It looks great as it is.

Thanks everyone for your responses. I think most everyone agrees that a minimal restoration is in order. I have some questions as I haven't restored anything from the 50's.

A few people have mentioned waxing the bike. Which wax would you use? I don't want to lose that patina.

A couple of people mentioned using a rest inhibitor on the paint live Evaporust. Would this damage the decals or the paint?

The tires on the bike are Dunlop Speed and as far as I can tell they are from the late 50's. In great shape but old. The existing wheels are 27". I will check and see if 700 would work with the frame and brakes. I'm not sure. Either way, is it best to build a new set using 27 or 700?

I am not sure what to do about components. This bike will be very tough to ride in my area because we have hills everywhere. To be ridden I am afraid I would need to modify and add a FD and easier gearing. If I decide to show it at the Eroica instead of riding it then I will, for sure, keep it original as possible.

I didn't see much advice on what to do about cleaning the components. Better to take them apart, clean and rehang? They are fairly dirty now with surface spots that would clean up but that gunk has probably taken decades to cake on.

Thanks to all

GG

https://www.flickr.com/gp/75836788@N00/1W9803

Be very cautious using the evapo rust on areas with decals, if there is rust under decals, they will be damaged... Also removing all the rust can take some of the remaining paint along with it. See the current C&V Clunker Challenge thread page 11 post 259 for results on a Steyr Clubman.
Don

How about an oxalic acid bath? Would that hurt the paint/decals?

The decals are water transfers, could be loosened, don't know as I haven't tried it. Weak solution of oxalic acid does remove rust from old machinery without hurting the paint, I have done that. But once its gone, its gone, so test & proceed carefully. Don

I would begin with a careful cleaning with a mild detergent in water. Followed by a careful rinse & dry. That will give an idea of how weak the paint is. I see a lot of surface rust. Getting rid of the dirt is a good start. Don

My dad got Flying Scot #140 when I was 7. He raced it for decades. I would take it out with friends. The boat I could take complete non-sailors out on very windy days and show them the phenomenon of planing at high speed. Incredibly well behaved boats and a lot faster than they looked.

The boat was my first thought when I saw the title. The designer, Gordon Douglas was American but Scottish to the core, a very good sailor and in his younger days, known for "flying" International Canoes of his own design. (Google International Canoe and you will see what I mean.)

Ben

I worked at a camp on the NC coast and we had a fleet of them. They took them all over the outer banks. I can't believe the beating those boats took and how many times we patched the same fiberglass hulls.

Three of my recent efforts to retain the patina, and are ridable bikes
a Hobbs of Barbican 1946 - Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia
a 1950s locally made in Adelaide, Australia Another 'Ace Special' - Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia
a 1960s Ladies Legnano

these all needed a clean and protect, and I tried to remember to document the process along the way.
You might find the threads useful.

For the frames I used oxalic acid on a damp cloth wrapped around the tubes, avoiding the transfers. Then a water rinse and a high quality car wax.
So there was no immersing the frame into a bath.

Those hoods from ebay don't look like like they have the windows for the adjuster. What do you think?

What a beaut!!

This illustration is posted at VintageLightweights and is accompanied by the statement "Slots need to be cut in for the adjusters."



GB accessories

agree with Juvela

VeloBase.com - Component: GB Super Hood brake lever hoods
"Also available in black, these hoods had to have a slot cut into them to enable access to the aluminium adjustment wheel on the lever assembly."

On further checking
look at https://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...20Library).pdf
model number 503 is for Superhoods, and artistically has the GB Superhood marking centered and no horizontal mould line.
model 504 is for the original [Hiduminium standard] lever and has the larger GB logo within three short horizontal lines.
Move across to the display packaging for Counter Sales, you see the GB Superhood marking lower on the hood and a clear mould line across the hood on both.
This 'counter display' model appears to be the ones for sale.

these are the sets I bought elsewhere

The mould lines are there to guide the cutting of the hood for the adjuster wheel.

"Fire up your X-ACTO knives gentlemen!"

I have a 1958 Sun Cresta (Birmingham England) which was given to me by the original owner. I replaced the tires, cables, housings and chain. I found some cotton bar tape to replace the foamy black stuff and cleaned the bike with Mequiars ScratchX and wax. Rusty metal parts were cleaned with wadded foil and liquid wax. Paint was touched up with a mixture of nail polish. I was happier with that look than the thick layer of "patina". Full lube and maintenance was performed. A newer type of jockey wheel was fitted to the RD. I now have a bike that I like to ride, and pleases my eye. I like the idea of a dual chainring. The Cresta is a 5 speed but a 10 speed was an option back in the the day. Sun Cycles was owned by the Parkes family and many of the bikes carried the FC Parkes name. The Sun wasp was likely the most well known.

Thank you! That makes sense. Are the ones on eBay being sold for what would be considered a good price. It seems a bit steep but I can't find any closed auction pricing.