I would like to start by apologizing for a misplaced post. I posted in the C&V - "What's it Worth" because I am interested in its value but more interested in converting my recently acquired early 90's Kestrel KM40 to my training bike. I am assuming this is not acceptable as I have not received one response. I am new to this forum and have very little experience in any forum, so I am sorry for that. I have re-posted my questions here this is more appropriate. If this is not the right place then I am not sure how to proceed.

The bike came to me with Shimano 600 group, 650c wheels and EMS forks. This is my first "plastic" bike and I am interested in its value as it sits now but more so, I would like to make it my everyday trainer. I am 50 years old and ride for fitness (20 miles 2-4 times a week) in San Francisco, CA. The roads can be rough here but the routes I ride aren't that bad.

1. My first question, I know very little about this bike and would appreciate any info i could get. I have read up on Kestrel's history and how they came to be. I assumed that this bike was the sort of gold standard for the start of the Carbon Fiber Crazy and thought I would fine much more information but that doesn't seem to be the case. Additionally,


2. I was told these frames come with a lifetime warranty, is this true and how would that work should something happen to it? Does anyone have any experience dealing with a Kestrel warranty issue?

3. in San Francisco, the hills are many and not small. The bike is not setup for hill climbing, more of a flatlanders beast mode bike with 56-42 up front. I was told by the LBS that 42 was the smallest ring I can put on this crank due to where the mounting screws are located. What is the best way for me to adjust the drive train to better suit my environment? It's 8 speed in the rear. Should I change out the crank set and if so what would you recommend?

4. The bike comes with very slender 650c wheels and tires. The rims are in pretty good shape, the tires are showing signs of rot. It's hard to read but it looks like they might be 650x20 and there is very little room for a fatter tire. Where can I find this size tire? They weren't jumping out at me when I did an internet search.

5. The bars are not idea for riding in San Francisco and I am a little too fluffy to comfortably use the elbow pads, not mention it is a position I am not used to. I was thinking of going with a traditional set of drops which mean I will also have to change the brake levers to ones with integrated shifting. Any suggestions on this would be appreciated as well. I have included a picture of the bike for reference.

Thank you in advance. Sorry for the novel! I am very interested in hearing what you all think of this idea and my questions. I would be interested in hearing any other update options as well.

I know little about Kestrels or 650c tires but I can answer a coupe of your more general questions.

1. There are two ways to get lower gears; either decrease the size of the small chainring (which you cannot do in this case without changing to a crankset with a smaller bolt center diameter) or increase the size of the larger cogs in the rear. Either one of these options may necessitate a new rear derailleur that can handle the larger gear range or, in the case of the larger rear cogs, one that can accommodate larger cogs. Rear derailleurs have two limiting factors when it comes to gear range. 1-How large a maximum cog they will handle. 2-How wide a range they will handle. If you will tell us your current rear derailleur and cog sizes or if you will post a couple drive-side photos of your drive train we can better advise you.

2. Another option for shifters when you change the handlebars to drop bars is to install bar-end shifters.
Brent

Thank you for the response. I just took it out for her maiden ride. So much smoother than my Cannondale Synapse! I also stopped by LBS and the rear drops are sized at 130mm so that is convenient as well. Also, the FD is Dura-Ace while everything else is Shimano 600. Here are the pictures you asked for. I really appreciate the input.

It looks like the previous owner had this set up as a time-trial bike. Quite understandable as I see the "tubing" is areodynamic. The riding position the frame geometry offers will always have you aggressively forward due to the steep seat tube angle. If that suits your riding style, fantastic. If it doesn't, you may never find this bike comfortable on longer rides.

To get the gearing more suitable to the steep hills where you live (I spent 3 years living in the area, quite some time ago), you'd either need really big gears on your cassette, or you will have to change out your crankset, or find some adapter (not sure if that would be suitable for this bike).

Drop bars would certainly help if you're not using this for time-trials, but only if the geometry works for you. Also, you seem quite locked in with wheel and tire size.