I've had success with a couple rattle can jobs and I'm in the process of a third. I agree the key is prep work. I usually start with a strong paint stripper, then finish with a combination of wire brushes and sanding paper. Also a good idea to have careful planning for the actual spray work. Best to get it done quickly once you're ready to lay down the paint, meaning, the more time from stripped frame, through primer, color, and clear, the more likely something can go wrong, including picking up dust, finger oils, or other contaminants, and well as ordinary clumsiness.

I've only used automotive paint in a can for frame painting. It's a bit more expensive but I'm willing to spend a little extra on more durable paint considering all the work that is involved. Most auto paint stores will have a huge variety of colors. If matching colors, take the color book outside and view against a sample in the daylight.

Don't skimp on protective gear. No sense restoring a bike to ride, in part, for your health if you are going to inhale toxins in the process.

Pick a good day to paint. If possible do it on a day that's not too cold, hot, windy or humid.

Multiple thin layers of primer, followed by careful sanding when dry, then multiple layers of color, followed by more sanding when dry, decals, multiple layers of clear followed by more sanding, time to cure, and done. Basically like this (minus the sandblasting and shipping): Joe Bell: Painting a Frame, Step by Step

Best to go with several thin layers rather than linger with the can over hard to reach areas (such as the BB shell) which can lead to runs. It's okay if the first coat is mostly a misting with emphasis on the lugs. The main tubes are easiest to fill in later.

Letting the rattle cans sit in warm water prior to spraying can help with paint flow.

Make sure whatever you use to hang the frame while painting is secure. You don't want it falling while the paint is still wet. :eek:

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...psac607a2c.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps31ea9a66.jpg

Bookmark, this is a very informative thread, including the last post but everyone's posts as well. This should not be lost. We almost need to have keywords here, like "restoration" for example. I was reading this 2 days ago and it's already the last thread on page 2 where it could fall into obscurity.

great job with that silver. looks factory

I won't powder coat ever again from some random guy. If it is botched like mine (orange peel), you're left with a coating that is near-impossible to remove.

My attempt at rattle-can didn't go great either. Looks fine at 1 meter. Rustoleum paint I used is not as glossy as I hoped and several weeks after painting, hanging the bike on rubber top tube holders took away the clear coat at the points of contact.

My biggest problem is patience. I have none, especially when it comes to drying Time.

So I made up drying cabinet out of an old Armoire using old school light bulbs to heat it. 1 150 Watt bulb at the bottom of the Cab and 1 100 Watt bulb at the top. That puts the Temp in the Cab at about 120F of nice dry heat.
About an Hour after the Frame is sprayed it goes in the Cab to "Cook". The finish is usually nice and dry after about a Week. Or when you can't smell Paint anymore.