I'm familiar with the area- I grew up in South Pasadena.

Montrose Bike Shop has been around since 1955. I don't think any of the mechanics have been there that long, but... Montrose Bike Shop - Montrose,California | Specialized Electra Kona Ritchey Thule

Open Road Bike Shop just moved from Pasadena to Altadena. Steve, the owner, is an old friend. He's knowledgeable but sometimes real busy. That's what you get for being the owner and sole employee. Untitled Document

You use the chain breaker to cut the chain to the exact length (pushing the pin out all the way) and then use the quick-link to re-join it. Pretty quick and easy for my 8-speed SRAM chains, and no breakages in thousands and thousands of miles.

The only chain failure I've ever had was when a quick-link came apart, FWIW.

Thanks for the info.

It's no problem to remove links with a chain breaker. However, removing those links destroys the peened end of the link you removed. The problem occurs when you try to connect the chain ends or add the damaged links back using a chain breaker. Just think of it as a one way street. You can remove but you can't add. Think twice before removing a link so that you don't get into a situation where you need to put one back.

Edit: Oops, didn't see thermionic scott's reply, which says exactly the same thing.

You must work for the Department of Redundancy Department.

Campagnolo 9-speed chain might be an option. I have C9 chains on a couple bikes (a 7-speed and a 9-speed drivetrain). These come NIB without a quicklink. As I understand, it was one of the last chains to come with traditional, non-peened pins.

wiggle.com | Campagnolo Record 9 Speed Chain | Chains

You did a better job with the "why" though.

I hear the advice against re-assembling a modern link but I confess I've done it. Dang, moving the pins at all on these new chains is really hard. The flared side plates make it harder still. But moving the pin for re-insertion is just as hard or harder than the same task on older chains. Which is to say it always struck me that a pin working its way out wasn't any more likely on a new chain I'd "modified" than on an older one. I can screw it up on either if I do it sloppily. I don't like doing it but I've done it when necessary. OTOH, quick-link pliers are an indispensable tool.

Doesn't mean I haven't tried. With predictable results. I think I've learned.

Yeah I have to admit, I find modern chains somewhat confusing. I too noticed the mushroomed pins before and wondered how you would break the chain with a tool. So many chain designs now too!

Hmmph. I started breaking chains a long time ago, meanin' I started using a chain tool. I kept doing it on modern chains before I read here that you weren't supposed to. Except for the really tight pins and flared side plates which make the chain sit funny in the tool the job isn't so much different from what it always was. But what do I know?

I don't know about the U.S.A. but here in Ontario Canada if I need a chain for a 7 speed or less for a quick cheap fix I just get one from Canadian Tire as their chains have the protruding pins and don't need a quick link. I imagine that Wal-Mart has similar chains. Btw, 7 speed can be use on 8 speed.

Cheers

I was happy to find this for my current project, an old Bottecchia with -only- ten speeds.

Cost more than a new style chain but for this bike I think its just "right". I really wanted a Record Oro but the cost is just too high.

New old stock, came sealed in its original package...



I was a little nervous the first time I had to replace a newer chain for a 8 speed system. It was my first time with a master link and I wasn't sure I liked the idea. Once I had it though, and saw how it went together, it seemed a pretty good system and has been a flawless performer. Something about this old Regina though just feels right.

There's something to be said for the old chains before they all went bushing-less. IIRC (?) the Regina Extra were the same as the Oro but not brass plated. Basically a fashion issue. Those work fine on regular 6 speed freewheels also.

Us old timers probably still associate master links with cheap bikes. When I was learning to wrench, only the bmx bikes and clunkers had master links. Good bikes did not use such things...

Jeff Wills: thanks for the bike shop recommendations. I will have to check those out some time.

There are a number of Extra models, and a number of Oro models but in general it seems the Oro's have fancier plating. The Record Oro though is the one with the cool drilled side plates. Ya gotta have drilled side plates ya know...

Would be nice, but NOS Record Oro chains trade at something over $100, which is just too much for a chain. At least for me, on a bike that's going to be ridden.

+1, I got one of their chains for my Medici (if this is a Boulder Cycle/Shimano99 BIN,) with the prices the Oro chains and freewheels are fetching this was a no brainer for me.

And, I agree about the feel, mine is coupled with a Regina Extra 14-26 5-speed freewheel from our own @rootboy. I used a SRAM quick link to join the ends of mine, the 830 model's link.

Right now they are not showing anymore in their listings. Glad that I acted on the listing when I saw it, $27.99 isn't to shabby for an NIP Regina Extra, to me. One case of not keeping my pickiness at peak condition saving me a chunk of change over an Oro freewheel and chain.

Bill

Yep, same deal Bill. Boulder Cycle is about an hour south of me. Never been there. I really need to stop in some time. They seem to have some interesting stuff around.

Okey dokey, I've ridden a few times -- 12 miles to 30 miles each -- with the KMC Z50 chain on the '92 Univega with Hyperglide cassette. Works fine, shifts much easier. Now I just need to add a quick link.

Although the previous chain wasn't stretched/worn out, it appeared to be a mishmash of at least two different chains, so shifting was often a bit of guesswork and hunting. No problems now with the rear shifting. (I need to tweak the front derailer, or check the thumb shifter -- it skips the middle chain ring on down shifts, but it was doing that with the old chain too.)

I was a bit worried about the re-inserted pin after reading some cautions from veteran mechanics about Uniglide/Hyperglide systems tending to put too much side pressure on chain plates and causing links to come apart. I've checked the chain before each ride. So far, so good. But I'll feel better about it after installing a KMC quick link, which doesn't rely on friction. The tricky part will be identifying the mark on the pin left by the chain tool, but I think I can still see that mark.

Thanks for the info. I have around 2k miles on my current chain - that is 2K added to the old used chain that came with the '83 frame I got from a friend/forum member 6-8 mos ago. Definitely time to get a new one, lol. I'll order one of those Z50s tonight.