Tips on how to be a better ebay bidder
#26
Freshman Member



Joined: Mar 2014
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From: City of Angels
Bikes: A few too many
^This is actually backwards. eBay is much better for buyers than sellers. The site has every protection possible now for buyers, but very little for the seller, right down to not being able to leave negative feedback. And the seller eats the many fees while the buyer pays nothing.
I have also noticed that shipping fees are out of the roof on many items because of bays flat rate shipping service...anyway you just have to add it all up and see if it is worth the price after your are all in.
Ben
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#27
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright

this came from Hoagy Carmichael.
I paid $255 in ebay auction and could sell it for $750 if I could let it go

A particularly nice pairing with a 1932 Thomas Special rod, since the Young Pattern 15a was also sold as the Thomas Special reel.
This pair has fished on tv - we were filming TU On the Rise when I took this snapshot
#28
Jedi Master
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lake Forest, IL
Bikes: https://stinkston.blogspot.com/p/my-bikes.html
Might I suggest the Classic Fly Rod Forum?
This is the Bike Forum
This is the Bike Forum
#29
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,717
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From: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright
why, if we can't suggest using Auctionsniper? (I used to be a moderator there)

(can you name the bike? I can name the rod and reel)

(can you name the bike? I can name the rod and reel)
Last edited by bulldog1935; 12-14-16 at 05:49 PM.
#31
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2011
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From: New York, NY
Bikes: Black Mountain Cycles Road and canti MX, Cannondale CAAD12, Bob Jackson Vigorelli
#32
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From: Central Virginia
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BTW Kingston, wife is from Lake Bluff, just off Green Bay Rd, Lake Forest High grad. Her parents and bro still live there. Nice town.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, ‘81 Masi Gran Criterium, ‘81 Merckx Pro, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, Rivendell Rambouillet, Heron Randonneur, ‘92 Ciöcc Columbus EL
#33
Jedi Master
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lake Forest, IL
Bikes: https://stinkston.blogspot.com/p/my-bikes.html
#34
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
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From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Once upon a time I saw a bicycle on eBay and I Wanted It. Bidding was in the $250-$400 range. I did not "watch" the sale, and I did not bid, but I saved screenshots of everything, went to esnipe.com and bade $2000, and then closed my eyes. When I panicked, and I did, I looked at my saved screenshots. Came a time I couldn't stand the suspense, and I looked at the auction, an hour before the end: bidding was up to $990 and change. I shuddered, but I did not look again. I won the bike at a bit over $1500, and wow. Had I shown my interest, the price could have been twice that. It's a lot of money but I got a deal.
#35
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
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From: Richmond VA area
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Yeah the whole point of bidding at the last second or two (sniping), is that you may win the item at a lower price than if you'd simply bid your maximum on eBay itself and waited to see what happens. Bidding wars just drive up the price, which is great for the seller, not so great for the buyer. As a buyer I love Auctionsniper, as a seller I hate it, lol.
#36
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Why is sniping better than just entering your maximum price? If you win, great. If you don't, oh well, it was more than you were willing to pay.
Is this really true? I've won and lost both ways. Assuming you are competing against another competent sniper, it will still come down to whoever submitted the highest bid.
I suppose this is true if you're the kind of person who gets caught up in the bidding and ends up paying more than you wanted to. I usually just enter one number and wait for ebay to tell me if I won or lost.
Is this really true? I've won and lost both ways. Assuming you are competing against another competent sniper, it will still come down to whoever submitted the highest bid.
I suppose this is true if you're the kind of person who gets caught up in the bidding and ends up paying more than you wanted to. I usually just enter one number and wait for ebay to tell me if I won or lost.
You put in the maximum amount that you want to pay, the snipe program bids for you in the last few seconds. There's no game of beating somebody and trying to outdo someone. You just put down your max, the sniping program puts down an amount of money up to your max. You can win or lose depending on how much you put as your max or the speed of your sniping program.
If you just bid, and someone else wants to beat you, they simply bid more than you- consciously bid more than you in an effort to bid more than you vs. the snipe that's not entered until the very end, with no time for someone to attempt to beat you.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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#37
Jedi Master
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lake Forest, IL
Bikes: https://stinkston.blogspot.com/p/my-bikes.html
How do you know? Sounds like there was another sniper whose high bid was $1499 (or whatever), and you won the auction at $1500 with a high bid of $2000. Same outcome as if you both would have entered your high bid at the start of the auction.
I'm sure ebay has stats on the difference of final sales prices for both types of auctions. That would be interesting to see, as it's not obvious to me that sniping results in a systematically lower selling price.
#38
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
I don't, of course! All I know is that I looked at what was for sale, and I evaluated the situation in my own mind, without considering what other bidders might be thinking; I hid my thinking from them. Had I placed a public bid, I would have made my thinking public, and I would have allowed his thinking to color mine. There's a lot to be said for that, and it might have been much to the sellers advantage, but I did not see the upside for me. By cutting off any unintentional communications with other bidders, I was able to stick to my initial assessment of the auction.
This is not the ideal situation for everyone, but there are times when it is to the buyer's advantage. And I'm okay with that.
This is not the ideal situation for everyone, but there are times when it is to the buyer's advantage. And I'm okay with that.
#39
Jedi Master
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lake Forest, IL
Bikes: https://stinkston.blogspot.com/p/my-bikes.html
Are you saying that the sniping programs allow you to impose a level of self-control that wouldn't be possible if you found out that your high bid was too low before the end of the auction?
I guess that's as good a reason as any to snipe. As you say, there isn't really any downside.
#40
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
... As you say, there isn't really any downside.
All in all I think sniping is all to the good, but I recognise that the thang can be argued from either side.
#41
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
Then there's my luddite version of sniping, where I just wait till the auction is a couple of minutes from closing and bid my max. I guess I'm showing my hand, but not for very long. Fellow luddites have limited time to incrementally outbid me, and the techno-snipes with a higher max would have beat my snipe anyway if their max is higher. Or something.
Maybe I just don't want it badly enough. Vince Lombardi would have me flogged.
Maybe I just don't want it badly enough. Vince Lombardi would have me flogged.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#43
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: downtown Bulverde, Texas
Bikes: '74 Raleigh International utility; '98 Moser Forma road; '92 Viner Pro CX upright
it's really simple - if you bid minutes before the auction ends, everybody watching has the option to bid you up as many times as they want.
If you bid in the last 3 seconds, they don't have time to bid you up and are stuck with their last bid.
If you set your snipe days before, no one but you knows what you're going to bid, and you don't even watch what is going on - in fact, you shouldn't.
You will find out if you won or lost. If you won great, and if you lost you honestly didn't want to pay that much anyway.
If you bid in the last 3 seconds, they don't have time to bid you up and are stuck with their last bid.
If you set your snipe days before, no one but you knows what you're going to bid, and you don't even watch what is going on - in fact, you shouldn't.
You will find out if you won or lost. If you won great, and if you lost you honestly didn't want to pay that much anyway.
#44
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
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From: Richmond VA area
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Little by little. Say, I decide $2000 is my max, and I bid that. You only see my current high bid at, say, $300, so you bid $325 and instantly my high bid is $350. You go to $450 and instantly I've bid $475. Maybe you're intimidated, but more likely I've just got your back up by now, which is not my intention at all! I'm not interested in a pissing match, I'm just trying to buy a bike. Anyway, I've seen it many times: the "you" guy, little by little, ups his bid until he wins, not because he wants to spend that much, but because he doesn't want the other guy (=me) to win. So he wins the bike at $2100 and I don't. Fine! But I'd prefer to win it myself for far less.
#45
^This is actually backwards. eBay is much better for buyers than sellers. The site has every protection possible now for buyers, but very little for the seller, right down to not being able to leave negative feedback. And the seller eats the many fees while the buyer pays nothing.
It's been a long time since I've sold anything and they have been doing A LOT of policy changes. As a buyer, I am thankful. You've only got to get burned by a junk seller once to swear off eBay for good, and that kills the whole system.
I got burned with a junk seller, invoked all the necessary steps, and the seller no longer is on eBay, But I, the customer am.
So, giving you the benefit of the doubt, I retract my assertion.
#46
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NE Florida
Bikes: '84 Lotus Supreme, '85 Club Fuji, '86 Schwinn Peloton, '87 DS Ironman Expert, '87 Maruishi Professional, '88 Takara
15 seconds will give you a better cushion.
I type my max bid in the box, wait until the timer hits 15 seconds left to go, submit and confirm. There's usually 5 seconds of high suspense until the auction ends.
I type my max bid in the box, wait until the timer hits 15 seconds left to go, submit and confirm. There's usually 5 seconds of high suspense until the auction ends.
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"If there hadn't been women we'd still be squatting in a cave eating raw meat, because we made civilization in order to impress our girl friends. And they tolerated it and let us go ahead and play with our toys." Orson Welles
#47
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Oakland, CA
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#48
Like A few others I buy mostly "buy it now" items.
Also Ebay has promos in the past about every other month it seems for $10 off if you spend $75 or more but it does not work on everything.
And it seems when I find A bicycle or frame I really want to bid on.There is one other bidder going against me,and I
just will not go above A certain price.
Also Ebay has promos in the past about every other month it seems for $10 off if you spend $75 or more but it does not work on everything.
And it seems when I find A bicycle or frame I really want to bid on.There is one other bidder going against me,and I
just will not go above A certain price.
Last edited by Joeyseven; 12-15-16 at 03:51 AM.
#50
So the premise of sniping is that the other bidders will increase their maximum bids over what their maximum bids would have been otherwise if they have time to find your maximum bid through a series of incrementally higher bids, when they could instantly determine your maximum bid by simply entering their maximum bid? This assumes that bidders who don't snipe are significantly less sophisticated bidders than those who snipe, which is probably true in some cases. I'm not so sure in the case of collectibles.





