PeregrineA1

Need some advice.


Frame is spaced 126 mm. 6 speed freewheel. Hub is 126.


Chain hits the frame and not just lightly.


What did I screw up?

Falcon3

Just respace your axle. Did the wheel have a 5 speed freewheel on it before? May be a 120mm axle or rather an axle for a 120mm frame

FBinNY 

Ok, this is a freewheel hub so it's a trivially simple fix.

Remove the freewheel, remove the right side locknut and add a 2mm washer under it. readjust the cones and you're good to go. If you want, and have one there, you can remove the same width washer from the left side to preserve the overall axle width. But if you don't have a washer to remove, it's no issue to have the hub 2mm wider than spec.

BTW- I said 2mm based on the photo and to be sure it was enough, but there's a chance that 1mm may do the trick. If you want to save some time, you can experiment with different thickness washers outside of the locknut, then when you know what's needed, do the job of moving it to it's permanent home.

Also, depending on the amount you respace the hub, and your sense of precision you may want to redish the rim to the new center.

repechage

This is from memory but for "six speed" spacing, from the land the freewheel tightens against on the hub to the locknut parallel to the axle centerline should be 36.5mm

Assuming no washer behind the freewheel here.

I think you are going to need all of that mentioned 2mm. and yes, I would correct the dish after it shifts well.

PeregrineA1

Thank you all. I knew it would be simple...

USAZorro

concur with all posts so far. I had this happen with one of mine, and respacing/redishing was the ticket.

FBinNY 

FWIW - there's a bit of variance in the required freewheel clearance on hubs of that era. Those of us who rode Campy/Regina (or Everest) for a decade suddenly found ourselves dealing with this issue if we changed to other common freewheels, especially those from Japan.

The difference is that Italian freewheels had the inner sprocket absolutely flush with the freewheel body, while it was moved outboard by 1-2mm from the body on most other brands. That moved everything else outward by the same amount, and required respacing the hub to match.

qcpmsame 

Very timely post, and great answers, my thanks. Not to take away from PeregrineA1 need for an answer.

Bill

gaucho777 

I recognize that frame. Agree that respacing the axle should do it, plus adding a washer/re-dishing as needed. Looking forward to seeing this all together.

FBinNY 

There's no need to replace the axle. Assuming it's the proper axle for 126mm OLD spacing, and therefore about 137mm long, it can comfortably accommodate another 2mm of spacing (unless 2mm is mover from left to right side, so OLD remains 126mm).

So, it's about a washer being moved or added, and redishing the wheel when done. Total cost a buck or so, plus a few minutes of your time.

BTW - keep in mind that the next standard axle length is 4mm longer (for 130mm) and could easily be too long.

gaucho777 

^Yes, agreed, I said respace not replace.

FBinNY 

Sorry, it's late and I have trouble reading the small print on this tablet.

gaucho777 

^No worries.

jimmuller 

Hmm. What we can't see from that pic is how the non-DS fits or whether there are any spacers on that side. Did someone perhaps add symmetric spacers to avoid re-dishing the wheel? Is the over-locknut distance really 126mm more or less?

Just something to think about.

PeregrineA1

I am away from the bike at the moment. There is plenty of room to move. Wheel is a new build by The Bicycle Stand in Long Beach, CA.


This won't be an issue.

@gaucho777 yes you do recognize the frame. We are very close, as in I want to go for a ride.....