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Is this fork unsafe?
2 Attachment(s)
Hello,
I recently had FEDEX damage a mid-80s Falcon Triathlon Success (531DB) in transit. I placed a damage claim and FEDEX paid up. The damage was to the top tube and I figured it was worth fixing. I took the frame to a local frame-builder who was able to fix the top tube and align the frame without issues. But to my surprise, it was discovered that the fork steerer had been ground down in the lower part, right next to the crown race. I measured .5mm taken off the tube in the worst area. It is very noticeable to touch. See the picture. I have no idea why someone would do this; by all appearences this came from the factory like that (the bike was bone stock and barely ridden as far as I could see). I can probably find a cheap replacement fork, but I hate to throw away the original fork. So, if anyone has seen something like this and is positive that it would be ok to ride the bike with this fork, please say so. Myself, I'm strongly leaning to use a replacement fork even if it will not quite match the bike and it will not be all original. thanks in advance for your collective wisdom and insights :) |
Well says so right there on the fork ha ha. I would take the crown race off and take a look whats under, although probably not much if the race is on tight. I would probably ride it but think hard before bombing down any fast descents.
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Is the "not safe" message in sharpie original to the fork??
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I imagine that the steerer tube could be replaced, but unless you could do this yourself it wouldn't be worth the cost.
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Originally Posted by rowebr
(Post 19414721)
Is the "not safe" message in sharpie original to the fork??
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The fork is not not safe. It may last a thousand years, it may fail next ride. It likely will fail at the worst possible time, when and if it does. And you will be more sorry for it.
Whatever and whoever, it is ruined. J |
Originally Posted by virula
(Post 19414735)
No! of course that was from the builder who fixed the frame. I'm not doubting his judgement at all, I'm just curious how/why the fork ended up like that on a (apparent) factory build. And of course it would be nice to keep the bike complete/original.
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Quality steerers are very beefy for about 2" upward from the crown. They're way overbuilt there because it's the one failure most to be avoided.
That means there's a deep reserve and the fork may still be safe. In fact, it may st8ill be much stronger than many forks built with less overbuilt steerers (fairly common). I can't say if it's safe, only that it may no be unsafe. If you're on the fence, but really want to use this fork, you might get some dowel rod, shave it to a tight fit and jam 2" up from the bottom. The brake bolt will keep it in place, and it will act as a safety net should the steerer fail. Wooden "safety nets" were SOP in forks for decades, so it's not like this is some kind of crazy thing. However, in the end it's your bike and decision. |
I see what look like the tail end of two small cracks just above the crown, I suspect if you remove the crown race there much bigger at the bottom so yes it's unsafe. It also looks like someone ground down a bit of the steerer tube and paint to closely inspect the damage cracks.
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That steerer tube getting notched like that is really unusual. I can understand the concern whether it weakened the fork enough to become unsafe to use, as in most cases, introducing a "step" on metal parts can result in stress risers where cracks can start. Question is, what is the type of stresses that goes through that area when riding.
Along with compressive forces/shock going through the tube, I assume the are beding/moment forces also going through where the top of the fork crown meets the steerer tube when that notch is located. IIRC though, the steerer tube on most bikes are butted where the fork crown meets it, so they have tucker walls in that area.....maybe enough to compensate for the weakening that the notch might have caused??,...... I dunno..... |
Originally Posted by zukahn1
(Post 19414879)
I see what look like the tail end of two small cracks just above the crown, I suspect if you remove the crown race there much bigger at the bottom so yes it's unsafe. It also looks like someone ground down a bit of the steerer tube and paint to closely inspect the damage cracks.
For me, I could only judge by knowing for sure why the grinding was done (which could be explained by the above), and whether after the grinding, the steerer was deemed by the perpetrator to be fit or not for commercial sale, along for the rationale for the determination. In the absence of answers to these unknowns, there is a lot of risk inherent in assuming the steerer is fit for use, given that [grinding] artifact, risk that is not easily mitigated. I can think of, but will keep to myself, some ways of mitigating the risk. |
Originally Posted by zukahn1
(Post 19414879)
I see what look like the tail end of two small cracks just above the crown, I suspect if you remove the crown race there much bigger at the bottom so yes it's unsafe. It also looks like someone ground down a bit of the steerer tube and paint to closely inspect the damage cracks.
thanks, I'll report what I find upon closer examination. But I'm pretty much set on replacing the fork and playing it safe. |
Um not sure what that sharpied message fork is, but if your fork is a recalled Viscount aluminum variety. Those particular forks are considered unsafe and have a ominous nickname attached to them. The Viscount I have passed the the later issue steel fork magnet test in flying colors.
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Originally Posted by WolfRyder
(Post 19415206)
Um not sure what that sharpied message fork is, but if your fork is a recalled Viscount aluminum variety...
__________ [MENTION=286730]virula[/MENTION]: it wouldn't hurt to ask your local framebuilder what he'd charge to braze a new steer tub onto that fork, would it? Probably be more than a cheap replacement fork, but but maybe not too much more? |
Was the notching from rubbing on the lower headset race? Missing bearings?
Since you've already been working with a local builder, call him up and ask him about the fork, and whether the thinks he can replace the steer tube. That is supposed to be the easiest fame repair. Are you planning on repainting the whole bike? |
I'd get in touch with Falcon Contact Us - Falcon
Or make it easier on yourself by taking your frame-builder's word. Unless the race was ground with the utmost precision and best of specialized tools, there is going to be uneven stress there. My only guess is that the previous owner did this to accommodate larger bearings that would fit his type of headset. It is highly-questionable, and even if done professionally, should have been fully described and verified by the person you bought the frame from. Since there has apparently been no mention of this alteration, we can only assume it was done by a hoser. Talk to the seller and see if he will refund some of your money. Don't worry: There are good, British 531 and 531c forks to be gotten out there. There is no good or sound reason to grind the crown races on a fork. |
[MENTION=286730]virula[/MENTION]: it wouldn't hurt to ask your local framebuilder what he'd charge to braze a new steer tub onto that fork, would it? Probably be more than a cheap replacement fork, but but maybe not too much more?[/QUOTE]
That's a good idea, I'll call and ask. I looked at the ground area as close as I could and really couldn't see any sign of hairline fractures. The grinding is not on the race, it is clearly limited to the steerer tube. Could be sabotage I guess :lol:. Maybe someone trying to become a rich widow? I've already bought a replacement fork that I think will work. If the original steerer can be replaced I may still do that and use it. Otherwise I'll use the replacement. As for paint, we'll see. If I really love the bike once put together and the replacement fork just clashes too much, I may paint it. The original paint is nothing special really. It will polish ok (I tested a small section), but the paint rubs off quite easily, like a bad rattle-can job. The bike is pretty neat, a "Triathlon Success" model, which means components mostly French: Sachs Huret New Success derailleurs, a very pretty Stronglight 107 crankset, maillard hubs, Mavic "rimtec 190" rims, maillard pedals. Weinmann brakes. It appears barely ridden. https://www.dropbox.com/s/wia337ueuo...Fork3.jpg?dl=0 |
9 Attachment(s)
crappy seller pics:
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