Is this fork unsafe?
#1
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Is this fork unsafe?
Hello,
I recently had FEDEX damage a mid-80s Falcon Triathlon Success (531DB) in transit. I placed a damage claim and FEDEX paid up. The damage was to the top tube and I figured it was worth fixing. I took the frame to a local frame-builder who was able to fix the top tube and align the frame without issues. But to my surprise, it was discovered that the fork steerer had been ground down in the lower part, right next to the crown race. I measured .5mm taken off the tube in the worst area. It is very noticeable to touch. See the picture. I have no idea why someone would do this; by all appearences this came from the factory like that (the bike was bone stock and barely ridden as far as I could see). I can probably find a cheap replacement fork, but I hate to throw away the original fork. So, if anyone has seen something like this and is positive that it would be ok to ride the bike with this fork, please say so. Myself, I'm strongly leaning to use a replacement fork even if it will not quite match the bike and it will not be all original.
thanks in advance for your collective wisdom and insights
I recently had FEDEX damage a mid-80s Falcon Triathlon Success (531DB) in transit. I placed a damage claim and FEDEX paid up. The damage was to the top tube and I figured it was worth fixing. I took the frame to a local frame-builder who was able to fix the top tube and align the frame without issues. But to my surprise, it was discovered that the fork steerer had been ground down in the lower part, right next to the crown race. I measured .5mm taken off the tube in the worst area. It is very noticeable to touch. See the picture. I have no idea why someone would do this; by all appearences this came from the factory like that (the bike was bone stock and barely ridden as far as I could see). I can probably find a cheap replacement fork, but I hate to throw away the original fork. So, if anyone has seen something like this and is positive that it would be ok to ride the bike with this fork, please say so. Myself, I'm strongly leaning to use a replacement fork even if it will not quite match the bike and it will not be all original.
thanks in advance for your collective wisdom and insights
#2
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Well says so right there on the fork ha ha. I would take the crown race off and take a look whats under, although probably not much if the race is on tight. I would probably ride it but think hard before bombing down any fast descents.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, ‘81 Masi Gran Criterium, ‘81 Merckx Pro, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, Rivendell Rambouillet, Heron Randonneur, ‘92 Ciöcc Columbus EL
#3
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Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400
Is the "not safe" message in sharpie original to the fork??
#5
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No! of course that was from the builder who fixed the frame. I'm not doubting his judgement at all, I'm just curious how/why the fork ended up like that on a (apparent) factory build. And of course it would be nice to keep the bike complete/original.
#6
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The fork is not not safe. It may last a thousand years, it may fail next ride. It likely will fail at the worst possible time, when and if it does. And you will be more sorry for it.
Whatever and whoever, it is ruined.
J
Whatever and whoever, it is ruined.
J
#7
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Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400
Ah ok. Another poster suggested removing the crown race to see if that exposes any obvious damage, that sounds good to me. other than that, I am stumped.
#8
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Quality steerers are very beefy for about 2" upward from the crown. They're way overbuilt there because it's the one failure most to be avoided.
That means there's a deep reserve and the fork may still be safe. In fact, it may st8ill be much stronger than many forks built with less overbuilt steerers (fairly common).
I can't say if it's safe, only that it may no be unsafe. If you're on the fence, but really want to use this fork, you might get some dowel rod, shave it to a tight fit and jam 2" up from the bottom. The brake bolt will keep it in place, and it will act as a safety net should the steerer fail.
Wooden "safety nets" were SOP in forks for decades, so it's not like this is some kind of crazy thing. However, in the end it's your bike and decision.
That means there's a deep reserve and the fork may still be safe. In fact, it may st8ill be much stronger than many forks built with less overbuilt steerers (fairly common).
I can't say if it's safe, only that it may no be unsafe. If you're on the fence, but really want to use this fork, you might get some dowel rod, shave it to a tight fit and jam 2" up from the bottom. The brake bolt will keep it in place, and it will act as a safety net should the steerer fail.
Wooden "safety nets" were SOP in forks for decades, so it's not like this is some kind of crazy thing. However, in the end it's your bike and decision.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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I see what look like the tail end of two small cracks just above the crown, I suspect if you remove the crown race there much bigger at the bottom so yes it's unsafe. It also looks like someone ground down a bit of the steerer tube and paint to closely inspect the damage cracks.
#10
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That steerer tube getting notched like that is really unusual. I can understand the concern whether it weakened the fork enough to become unsafe to use, as in most cases, introducing a "step" on metal parts can result in stress risers where cracks can start. Question is, what is the type of stresses that goes through that area when riding.
Along with compressive forces/shock going through the tube, I assume the are beding/moment forces also going through where the top of the fork crown meets the steerer tube when that notch is located. IIRC though, the steerer tube on most bikes are butted where the fork crown meets it, so they have tucker walls in that area.....maybe enough to compensate for the weakening that the notch might have caused??,...... I dunno.....
Along with compressive forces/shock going through the tube, I assume the are beding/moment forces also going through where the top of the fork crown meets the steerer tube when that notch is located. IIRC though, the steerer tube on most bikes are butted where the fork crown meets it, so they have tucker walls in that area.....maybe enough to compensate for the weakening that the notch might have caused??,...... I dunno.....
#11
curmudgineer
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From: Chicago SW burbs
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I see what look like the tail end of two small cracks just above the crown, I suspect if you remove the crown race there much bigger at the bottom so yes it's unsafe. It also looks like someone ground down a bit of the steerer tube and paint to closely inspect the damage cracks.
For me, I could only judge by knowing for sure why the grinding was done (which could be explained by the above), and whether after the grinding, the steerer was deemed by the perpetrator to be fit or not for commercial sale, along for the rationale for the determination.
In the absence of answers to these unknowns, there is a lot of risk inherent in assuming the steerer is fit for use, given that [grinding] artifact, risk that is not easily mitigated. I can think of, but will keep to myself, some ways of mitigating the risk.
#12
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I see what look like the tail end of two small cracks just above the crown, I suspect if you remove the crown race there much bigger at the bottom so yes it's unsafe. It also looks like someone ground down a bit of the steerer tube and paint to closely inspect the damage cracks.
thanks, I'll report what I find upon closer examination. But I'm pretty much set on replacing the fork and playing it safe.
#13
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From: In my crap Apt.
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Um not sure what that sharpied message fork is, but if your fork is a recalled Viscount aluminum variety. Those particular forks are considered unsafe and have a ominous nickname attached to them. The Viscount I have passed the the later issue steel fork magnet test in flying colors.
#14
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[MENTION=286730]virula[/MENTION]: it wouldn't hurt to ask your local framebuilder what he'd charge to braze a new steer tub onto that fork, would it? Probably be more than a cheap replacement fork, but but maybe not too much more?
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 03-03-17 at 12:45 AM.
#15
Was the notching from rubbing on the lower headset race? Missing bearings?
Since you've already been working with a local builder, call him up and ask him about the fork, and whether the thinks he can replace the steer tube.
That is supposed to be the easiest fame repair.
Are you planning on repainting the whole bike?
Since you've already been working with a local builder, call him up and ask him about the fork, and whether the thinks he can replace the steer tube.
That is supposed to be the easiest fame repair.
Are you planning on repainting the whole bike?
#16
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I'd get in touch with Falcon Contact Us - Falcon
Or make it easier on yourself by taking your frame-builder's word.
Unless the race was ground with the utmost precision and best of specialized tools, there is going to be uneven stress there.
My only guess is that the previous owner did this to accommodate larger bearings that would fit his type of headset.
It is highly-questionable, and even if done professionally, should have been fully described and verified by the person you bought the frame from.
Since there has apparently been no mention of this alteration, we can only assume it was done by a hoser.
Talk to the seller and see if he will refund some of your money.
Don't worry: There are good, British 531 and 531c forks to be gotten out there.
There is no good or sound reason to grind the crown races on a fork.
Or make it easier on yourself by taking your frame-builder's word.
Unless the race was ground with the utmost precision and best of specialized tools, there is going to be uneven stress there.
My only guess is that the previous owner did this to accommodate larger bearings that would fit his type of headset.
It is highly-questionable, and even if done professionally, should have been fully described and verified by the person you bought the frame from.
Since there has apparently been no mention of this alteration, we can only assume it was done by a hoser.
Talk to the seller and see if he will refund some of your money.
Don't worry: There are good, British 531 and 531c forks to be gotten out there.
There is no good or sound reason to grind the crown races on a fork.
Last edited by 1989Pre; 03-03-17 at 06:55 AM.
#17
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[MENTION=286730]virula[/MENTION]: it wouldn't hurt to ask your local framebuilder what he'd charge to braze a new steer tub onto that fork, would it? Probably be more than a cheap replacement fork, but but maybe not too much more?[/QUOTE]
That's a good idea, I'll call and ask. I looked at the ground area as close as I could and really couldn't see any sign of hairline fractures. The grinding is not on the race, it is clearly limited to the steerer tube. Could be sabotage I guess
. Maybe someone trying to become a rich widow?
I've already bought a replacement fork that I think will work. If the original steerer can be replaced I may still do that and use it. Otherwise I'll use the replacement. As for paint, we'll see. If I really love the bike once put together and the replacement fork just clashes too much, I may paint it. The original paint is nothing special really. It will polish ok (I tested a small section), but the paint rubs off quite easily, like a bad rattle-can job.
The bike is pretty neat, a "Triathlon Success" model, which means components mostly French: Sachs Huret New Success derailleurs, a very pretty Stronglight 107 crankset, maillard hubs, Mavic "rimtec 190" rims, maillard pedals. Weinmann brakes. It appears barely ridden.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wia337ueuo...Fork3.jpg?dl=0
That's a good idea, I'll call and ask. I looked at the ground area as close as I could and really couldn't see any sign of hairline fractures. The grinding is not on the race, it is clearly limited to the steerer tube. Could be sabotage I guess
. Maybe someone trying to become a rich widow?I've already bought a replacement fork that I think will work. If the original steerer can be replaced I may still do that and use it. Otherwise I'll use the replacement. As for paint, we'll see. If I really love the bike once put together and the replacement fork just clashes too much, I may paint it. The original paint is nothing special really. It will polish ok (I tested a small section), but the paint rubs off quite easily, like a bad rattle-can job.
The bike is pretty neat, a "Triathlon Success" model, which means components mostly French: Sachs Huret New Success derailleurs, a very pretty Stronglight 107 crankset, maillard hubs, Mavic "rimtec 190" rims, maillard pedals. Weinmann brakes. It appears barely ridden.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wia337ueuo...Fork3.jpg?dl=0
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