Dynamo light for dutch bike
#1
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
Dynamo light for dutch bike
I need a new Dynamo front light for my dutch bike.
What light do you recommend?
What light do you recommend?
#2
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From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Peterwhite has a good page on dynamo headlights, however I'm not sure how often it's updated.
headlight beams from Peter White Cycles
#3
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
#4
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From: New Jersey
This is important; because you are posting in vintage, you may not have a generator/dynamo that will work with most modern lights. The generator, as well as identifying information of the lights you have now, would be useful.
#5
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From: Reykjavík
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I have a shimano dynamo hub. I'm replacing the light and the cable.
I think the light I had was something like the Busch & Müller light now.
I think the light I had was something like the Busch & Müller light now.
#6
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)
If you have a relatively modern Shimano dynamo hub, it should be specified for the "standard" 3 watts. If so, then you can use any B&M dynamo light. You can order them cheap from bike-discount.de.
However, B&M lights are usually quite dependable. So, unless you damaged the light or submerged it, I'm wondering if the light itself isn't the problem? Maybe it's a loose or frayed wire somewhere?
However, B&M lights are usually quite dependable. So, unless you damaged the light or submerged it, I'm wondering if the light itself isn't the problem? Maybe it's a loose or frayed wire somewhere?
#7
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No I removed the handlebar and the broke the wire and I'm going to upgrade to a better light cause the light don't have on and off button.
#8
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)
Most dynamo lights do not have an on/off button per se, though many do have a swtich on the back of the light.
The B&M Cyo series has a switch on the back of the light. I like the Cyo Premium; it's the brightest Cyo.
The B&M Luxos U has a cable that goes to your handlebar, with an on/off switch and a USB charging output. Nice! But expensive.
#9
What??? Only 2 wheels?


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Bikes: 72 Peugeot UO-8, 82 Peugeot TH8, 87 Bianchi Brava, 76? Masi Grand Criterium, 74 Motobecane Champion Team, 86 & 77 Gazelle champion mondial, 81? Grandis, 82? Tommasini, 83 Peugeot PF10
I have three B&M lights, different versions of the Lumotec IQ CYO series bought at different times. All are wonderful. One is powered by a Shutter Precision SV8 dynamo hub, one by an old (~35 years) Cibie bottle generator on our tandem, and one by an even older (~45 years) Union bottle generator. The generators have different behaviors but the lights are awesome. All are paired to a B&M Topline taillight.
The SV8 is spec'ed for road bikes or smaller wheels, not large-wheel touring bikes because it needs to be run at a minimum speed. At walking speed the headlight flashes with every magnet pulse. Once I'm riding however the light comes on and stays on even when I slow down. It is my prime night commuter bike.
The Cibie is a low drag, lower power unit that needs maybe 10 to 15 feet of road speed to charge up the light. At walking speed it doesn't drive the light at all for even further. One we get going however it drives the headlight and taillight just fine.
The Union is a German-spec full-power-at-low-speed unit that fires up the headlight immediately. I can flick it with my finger and the taillight comes on. Of course it also has more drag at intermediate or higher speeds. It has absolutely no trouble driving the lights at speed. It lives on my fendered bike.
The SV8 is spec'ed for road bikes or smaller wheels, not large-wheel touring bikes because it needs to be run at a minimum speed. At walking speed the headlight flashes with every magnet pulse. Once I'm riding however the light comes on and stays on even when I slow down. It is my prime night commuter bike.
The Cibie is a low drag, lower power unit that needs maybe 10 to 15 feet of road speed to charge up the light. At walking speed it doesn't drive the light at all for even further. One we get going however it drives the headlight and taillight just fine.
The Union is a German-spec full-power-at-low-speed unit that fires up the headlight immediately. I can flick it with my finger and the taillight comes on. Of course it also has more drag at intermediate or higher speeds. It has absolutely no trouble driving the lights at speed. It lives on my fendered bike.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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Last edited by jimmuller; 03-25-17 at 04:10 PM.
#10
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From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
The dynamo light I used above has an on/off button. I've never turned it off. I don't understand why you would want to.
#11
What??? Only 2 wheels?


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From: Boston-ish, MA
Bikes: 72 Peugeot UO-8, 82 Peugeot TH8, 87 Bianchi Brava, 76? Masi Grand Criterium, 74 Motobecane Champion Team, 86 & 77 Gazelle champion mondial, 81? Grandis, 82? Tommasini, 83 Peugeot PF10
Before DST kicked back out much of my commute home was well after dark. Several miles are on the Minuteman Bikeway which sees a LOT of commuter traffic. Unfortunately many of the other cyclists and most of the walkers and joggers carry weak lights or none at all. A bright headlight aimed forward enough to give advance warning of debris on the path can be blinding to oncoming cyclists. (Walkers can always stop for a few seconds and wait for a bike to pass.) I usually run with two headlights, the generator-powered B&M and a USB rechargeable. The B&M is mounted so that I can't easily change its angle but I can re-aim the battery light. So when I approach another cyclist I turn off the B&M and angle the battery light downward and/or cover it with my hand. It's just courtesy and safety.
__________________
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
#12
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
These trails are away from road traffic so I don't need to have a light going on disturbing other cyclists.
#13
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Cheap as I am, I'd probably just install a switch on it when I was repairing the wire.
#15
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I'm thinking about going with this one:
Lumotec Classic T Senso Plus with DLR
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...D%5B19244%5D=1
Lumotec Classic T Senso Plus with DLR
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...D%5B19244%5D=1
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