My winter project has been these awesome '83 Schwinn Voyageur, and I recently installed a Velo Orange Pass Hunter front rack onto it (the one with the integrated decaleur). Since installing new Shimano CX70 cantilever brakes on it, though, the rack now sits noticeably un-level.

I tried using a spacer and a brake bracket on the front of the fork, which brought it down a little bit--but I can't add any more because then I won't have enough thread off the back of the fork to mount the fender.

So am I doomed to have a rack that's forever angled slightly up? Am I a product of vintage narrow cantilever posts and a modern production rack? If you've solved this problem before, I'm all ears!

That's not a rack, it's a bag support and that's how it is designed to fit. The bag should lean back. Your cables may interfere.

...I mean, you're not wrong. VO calls it a rack, Nitto calls their's a rack, Compass refers to their's as a rack too...but they'd be better off calling it bag support to get it right, I guess.

The cables bend easily and smoothly beneath the bag support when the bag is mounted, so no harm there.

Full disclosure: my plight is not a matter of function, and is strictly a matter of aesthetic.

I was going to say "mount to the lower braze on on the fork end instead of the top one."

But, never mind.

You could move that large rear concave washer from the rear to the front. Then you'd probably have to trim the top end of the fender bracket to get it to fit underneath the headset. It's not ideal, but it might be a solution.

Or just ride with your bag on all the time and you won't notice the angle. Or get help with your OCD.

After a bit of thinking and looking at the pix... I think it's a result of the cantilever bosses being placed 4mm higher than the rack was designed for.

The difference between the a 27" 630 and a 700c 622 rim.

I agree with previous poster. You can get away without the concave washer in the back, especially since this is a rack and not a brake. Another possibility is to use a fork crown daruma instead of the rack bolt to mount the fender. That will only gain you a little space but it's something. Additional advantage is that it looks neater and it's a little easier to get the fenders on and off for sunny days if you ever need to do that.

Lastly, I'd guess that those racks are made from 304 or similar steel, which is fairly ductile. It wouldn't bug me to bend that strut a little bit if needed. However, no harm in a slight back tilt, as others have said. It's really pretty much level enough right now.

Yep, that definitely explains the angle, as the frame was designed for 27 1-1/4 wheels. That, combined with squeezing the rack arms inwards (raising the platform higher) to reach the narrow canti bosses, is likely what's driving it upwards.

re: using a daruma bolt: the trouble with that setup is that you lose quite a bit of tire clearance beneath the fork crown vs. using the brake bolt tab. I agree though that it's a superior system, so I'll try mounting 35c tires (currently have 32c), check the clearance, and see if it's possible to go that route. That would allow me to add more spacers to the rack bolt on the front of the fork, and get it level.

re: trimming tab to clear headset: I've got it folded back now, but ya could try cutting the top off it, especially if the daruma bolt setup doesn't allow enough tire clearance.

re: bending the bolt a bit: that may be my last resort. It's stainless steel, which can handle a bit of shaping. I know people bend Nitto racks to fit, although I'll wager those are better quality material.

re: my OCD--let's be honest, if you're regularly posting in the C&V section of BikeForums, chances are you've got a bit of OCD! But ya, once the bag is mounted you really can't notice it.

Thanks everyone, I've got a few options to consider.

Ideally your rack should be level, and attach to the front fender.

From my friends at Norther Cycle:


The backstop (or "tombstone") is where you slide your handlebar bag over, and is typically the same angle as your head tube (~73 degrees) from horizontal.

The problem is that none of the off-the-shelf bikes fit on any bikes to make the above happen. When you see those two conditions met, it's almost always a custom rack. I've modified VO racks a few times by cutting off the centerbolt portion and rebrazing a new piece in, but it still required some long spacers to connect to the fender.

On the other hand, it's not a big deal using it just like you have it.

Re: daruma bolts-Yeah, not a great fan. A better alternative is to have a bit brazed onto the fork crown to directly attach the fender by feeding a bolt from under the fender.

OCD? I think you're right, most of us are here to some degree or another! Especially those of us with several bikes, when you can only ride one at a time!

I have to laugh. Several bikes ago, I bought a V.O. decaleur without reading carefully enough. I mean, I really screwed up and ordered one meant for 26" wheels and cantilever brake mounts when I wanted a rack for a bike with 700c wheels and road brakes. Rather than try to send it back, I held onto it until I had a project for it. I was excited to put it on my Giant Iguana conversion, but it was off a little too far for me to feel comfortable muscling it into place. Fortunately, Mark Ball (at my LBS) got a fit that works with it. It has a slight angle, but it's close enough.

The point? Sorta what gugie said. These are manufacture using a bunch of presumptions about bike geometry, and if yours doesn't exactly match theirs, some creativity is necessary.

Observation - my OCD is different from the OPs. The angle of the flat of the decaleur doesn't bother me a bit. The curve of the attachment near the fork on the other hand... (hope I didn't set off fresh discontent)

It's true a daruma eats up clearance. I just mention it because it is an option. I've got one on my PX10 and the clearance is pretty tight, though it does work. Practically speaking I guesstimate it would limit you to ~28c tires, 32 if you push it. I think I could pick up another 2-3mm by grinding the end and using a flatter nut and loctite instead of a nylock.

A threaded boss under the fork crown is really the best way, but of course it will screw up your paint. Another way would be to countersink your fork crown as if for recessed nut brakes, and make or acquire an L bracket that clears your headset. That would give you plenty of room to space out the front.