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Practical considerations of ‘Period Correct’ cycling.

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Old 04-16-17 | 10:50 AM
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Practical considerations of ‘Period Correct’ cycling.

I recently posted a question about solutions to using the slotted cleat system in our modern era and the problem of obtaining appropriate shoes (by the way I discovered that Detto has in fact re-introduced their old shoe).

Another problematic area is the lack of reasonably wide handlebars. As far as I know the Raleigh Mk IV (my project bike) came equipped with GB bars exclusively. I have never seen a GB bar with a width other than 39 cm.

Let’s say we transport ourselves back in time to the year our bicycle was produced, 1973 in my case. Let’s also stipulate that any substitutions in equipment requested of the bike shop at the time of purchase (or shortly thereafter) would be valid in so far as maintaining a period correct bike. (I’ll add an historic note here. My father bought the Pro. new in ’73 and substituted Dura-Ace brakes for the Campy in order to save money. He also substituted randonneur bars for GB’s and just a bit later replaced the sew-up rims with clincher rims. I have returned the bike to its original configuration in my restoration.)

So, what would be my choices in a wider bar? I do not know what specific widths were available in say a Cinelli or 3t but it is my understanding that, in the case of the Cinelli Giro de Italia, bars in the range of 44’s were not available prior to ’78 or so.

Here are my thoughts based on what I currently know. As long as I am riding the Raleigh I will use a newer, wider handlebar because it seems silly to compromise comfort for the sake of technicalities. As far as shoes go, I am still up in the air. I am having my ancient cleats repaired but the cost of Alfredo Binda straps and high-end toe clips is so high I may resort to the Dura-Ace pedals I use on my ’04 Lemond (Tete-de-Course).
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Old 04-16-17 | 10:55 AM
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I'm 6'4" with 37" arm sleeves (it sure is hard finding shirts!)

And 38cm bars are comfortable and efficient for me. I just built up a Claude Butler Audax frame last night with some I had on hand.

I know that's not helpful...
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Old 04-16-17 | 11:00 AM
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Why do you think anyone cares if you ride with wide bars?
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Old 04-16-17 | 11:05 AM
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^ I think OP is trying to keep the bike period correct.

Also agree that if you're going to ride it, put wider bars on and deal with the wave of scrutiny coming from the scores of vintage purists you encounter.

I constantly deal with the same issue with seatposts.
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Old 04-16-17 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Standalone
I'm 6'4" with 37" arm sleeves (it sure is hard finding shirts!)

And 38cm bars are comfortable and efficient for me. I just built up a Claude Butler Audax frame last night with some I had on hand.

I know that's not helpful...
I would love to see pics of your Audax !

Back to topic.
I will ride narrow bars on some of the older bikes I have because it is part of the history and rightful place i.e.; my maes bars with the Hiuminium GB bars on my GS Raleigh. Others more modern, I will change out to wider and ride that way cause I need wider bars to feel secure in my balance on the bike.

Last edited by 3speedslow; 04-16-17 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Auto correct hell
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Old 04-16-17 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by plonz
^ I think OP is trying to keep the bike period correct.

Also agree that if you're going to ride it, put wider bars on and deal with the wave of scrutiny coming from the scores of vintage purists you encounter.

I constantly deal with the same issue with seatposts.
If you want to ride period correct, then ride period correct. If you don't, then don't.

Then of course, you can do both with 2 bikes or more. That is how I solved the "problem".
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Old 04-16-17 | 12:12 PM
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Agreed. If you care about "period correct" enough to start this thread, then the answer is: use a narrow handlebar.
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Old 04-16-17 | 12:28 PM
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I am curious, to the OP, what width are you most comfortable riding now? Or did you already answer that with 44cm? If 38s are too narrow (and at 6'5" they are for me), how have 40cm or 42cm units worked? That question comes from seeing if splitting the difference nets you a better outcome while still flying under the radar with purists (of which I know none, but I'm not exactly a social hub here).

Another idea and question, given that riders often upgraded their bikes throughout the years, to one degree or another, what is your personal year cut-off for "period correct"? Many bikes in the '70s, as far as I can tell, shared many design features, especially in the early to mid '70s. So something from 1978--within five years of your bike in question--seems well within period correct to me, and thus you could run wider bars that were now an option (but the same model available in 1973, like Cinellis). Things really changed in the '80s, so to me, that's where the range of period correct years gets narrower vs. the '70s. I tried looking up Cinelli bar model production, and didn't find anything (let alone don't much know where to start besides a search engine).

I/we understand your quandary, but we also want you to ride and enjoy your bike(s)! If you can find a wider bar that fits the stem on that bike and looks like it belongs in that era, then I say go ahead. Some guys like wall art, but it sounds like you don't want this to be (hooray!). If you can find bars and models that got to 40cm or even 42cm in 1973 or within a couple of years, keeping strictly to your period correct requirements, then godspeed on that search and may the internet and BF C&Vers bear fruit. Otherwise, we have choice and better technology now, so taking advantage of that is ok with me.
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Old 04-16-17 | 01:00 PM
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Most everybody rode 40's. A few smaller frame size bikes would have come with 38. Vintage correct problem solved!! More aero!!

IIRC Cinelli offered the model 66 in 38, 40 or 42, but I don't think I ever saw a 42. No reason you can't run 42 or 44 today if that's what you prefer. I doubt anyone is going to give you a hard time about it.
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Old 04-16-17 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by shopco43

As long as I am riding the Raleigh I will use a newer, wider handlebar because it seems silly to compromise comfort for the sake of technicalities. As far as shoes go, I am still up in the air. I am having my ancient cleats repaired but the cost of Alfredo Binda straps and high-end toe clips is so high I may resort to the Dura-Ace pedals I use on my ’04 Lemond (Tete-de-Course).
Personally... unless you have a museum quality restoration, there's no reason to be uncomfortable and spend outrageous amounts of money getting obsolete items repaired when there's a whole world of options available.

I understand "the game" of period correct- but first and foremost, the bike is for riding. Getting cool parts that work well and look the part- that's more of an endgame. Somebody once asked me why I was putting 1990-ish parts on a 1986 bike... because I love the bike, because I think the parts look cool.

There's things that go out of your rules, and you can make those decisions. When I was redoing my Trek 720- I had trouble finding a front derailleur. I had 3 very cool FDs that would have been absolutely fine- but they didn't "match" what I imagined to be going on with the bike. It would have bugged me every time I rode it.
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Old 04-16-17 | 01:35 PM
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My practical period correct riding includes modern pedals. I store the original pedals in a bag, or sell them to people who must have the inconvenience of using them.
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Old 04-16-17 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by iab
Why do you think anyone cares if you ride with wide bars?
This is interesting. On the one hand you profess to have no interest in the subject being discussed but you then go on to take the time and effort to respond. Why so conflicted; did your mother not like you?
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Old 04-16-17 | 01:57 PM
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Old 04-16-17 | 02:15 PM
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Old 04-16-17 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by iab
Why do you think anyone cares if you ride with wide bars?
I found it interesting that one Paris-Roubaix bike tech review made mention that some bikes were set up with 40cm wide bars... No idea if this is a unique race specific prep thing or wide is no longer "the thing".

I recently started building a bike almost replicating my first road bike, of which I kept the original bars, 36 cm ctc!
3ttt Grand Prix bend, the bike they came off of was 59 cm, the bike they are destined for is a 56.
I will build it up just to see, almost everything I ride has 40 cm ctc bars.
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Old 04-16-17 | 02:58 PM
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The GB bars that came on '70s Schwinn Super Sports, Sport Tourers and Continentals measure about 42cm.
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Old 04-16-17 | 03:28 PM
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The GB Randonneur handlebar was available in 1973
see p12-13 of the 1973 GB catalogue from the V-CC on-line library
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Old 04-16-17 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
The GB bars that came on '70s Schwinn Super Sports, Sport Tourers and Continentals measure about 42cm.
That's the randonneur bar [MENTION=185335]Big Block[/MENTION] mentions. 42 cm is their overall width in the drops, though? I think they're more like 38cm at the brake levers.

At any rate, I think it important to note that the current fashion for wider handlebars is (a) a fashion, not necessarily an improvement over the old fashion; and (b) a result of the popularity of mountain biking in the 1980's. By 1990 touring bikes had disappeared from the bike store showroom and any kind of road bikes were getting scarce. When the newly recruited mountain bikers turned to road riding, they wanted bikes that felt more like mountain bikes, with wide handlebars and integrated brake-shift-levers. There's nothing wrong with that; but it is the current fashion, that's all. You can't have that on a 1970 racing bike any more than you can have a Victorian Miniskirt.

Last edited by rhm; 04-16-17 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 04-16-17 | 03:59 PM
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I'd also consider riding position of older bikes vs newer ones.

Seems to me, people riding newer bikes with brifters and ergo bars always ride on the hoods. On older bikes, riding on the hoods is not always ideal. I find (on my narrow handlebar 1972 PX-10) 4 positions: drops, hoods, flat/center, and bend (between the hoods and flat/center) (sorry guys, I know there are technical names for these positions). Most of the time, I am on the drops (which I find very comfortable), bend, and flat, and very little on the hoods. I'm a big guy that would probably want a wide bar on a modern bike, but am totally fine riding this configuration.

Maybe this difference is adjusting the positioning to the narrow bars?

Here is a photo of the 4 positions I grabbed

hand positions.jpg
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Old 04-16-17 | 04:18 PM
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If 'practicality' means using non-original equipment then maybe just make your choice? You've already stated that you're likely to use DA pedals so how can there be anything wrong with using Cinelli 44's made after 77? Things are either period correct or not, kinda black and white with few exceptions.
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Old 04-16-17 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shopco43
On the one hand you profess to have no interest in the subject being discussed but you then go on to take the time and effort to respond. Why so conflicted; did your mother not like you?
No interest? OP asked a question. I answered. No problem there.

The real problem is your mother likes me too much.
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Old 04-16-17 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
I found it interesting that one Paris-Roubaix bike tech review made mention that some bikes were set up with 40cm wide bars... No idea if this is a unique race specific prep thing or wide is no longer "the thing".
If you can find them, prewar bars were typically 40cm. Don't know why postwar they started getting skinny.
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Old 04-16-17 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jcb3
I'd also consider riding position of older bikes vs newer ones.

Seems to me, people riding newer bikes with brifters and ergo bars always ride on the hoods. On older bikes, riding on the hoods is not always ideal. I find (on my narrow handlebar 1972 PX-10) 4 positions: drops, hoods, flat/center, and bend (between the hoods and flat/center) (sorry guys, I know there are technical names for these positions). Most of the time, I am on the drops (which I find very comfortable), bend, and flat, and very little on the hoods. I'm a big guy that would probably want a wide bar on a modern bike, but am totally fine riding this configuration.

Maybe this difference is adjusting the positioning to the narrow bars?

Here is a photo of the 4 positions I grabbed

Attachment 559610
I'd add a 5th: gripping the very end of the drops which is much better and feels more secure with a traditional bend bar with a long straight area there compared to ergo bars (which I like too.... for hood riding with modern levers.)
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Old 04-16-17 | 05:17 PM
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Life's too short to ride an uncomfortable bike, especially just for the sake of fashion. Toss a wider set of correct appearing bars on it and enjoy it.
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Old 04-16-17 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by shopco43
Another problematic area is the lack of reasonably wide handlebars. As far as I know the Raleigh Mk IV (my project bike) came equipped with GB bars exclusively. I have never seen a GB bar with a width other than 39 cm.
As a person responsible for fitting & assembling this MK of Pro "back when" the creaking combo of stubby 3T stem & girl-guide sized GB bars were universally dumped for the proper length of Cinelli 1-A stem and model/width of Cinellli bar for each customer. A host of other changes were made for fit/preference as well before the bike left the shop w/o regard for catalog-correctness in our mis-guided attempt to fit the machine to the rider's requirements.

42cm bars as available in '74 and 175 crankarms worked for my biggest teammates "back when", but if you require the late model 44cm bars to properly operate the machine a special dispensation (with a suitable fee and penance) will be required from the Period Correct Police.

As always, suit yourself.

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Last edited by Bandera; 04-16-17 at 06:02 PM.
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