Replacement fork versus repair - bianchi 80s
#1
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Replacement fork versus repair - bianchi 80s
Hi folks I recently bought a bianchi and the forks are bent. The steering tube is also bent and a small dent on one of the forks. I'm having trouble sourcing a cheap replacement. The steering tube is quite long at 185mm and a thread of 45mm is required for the head set. I've seen some forks that have the length i.e. Over 230m but the threaded portion is much too long. My question is does this actually matter as the top will screw into the race or does the whole 185mm of the steering tube have to be smooth?
#2
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Hi folks I recently bought a bianchi and the forks are bent. What Model? What type of tubing? Any pics?
The steering tube is also bent and a small dent on one of the forks. Are you sure the frame isn't bent? Inspect the area around the lower headlug very carefully.
I'm having trouble sourcing a cheap replacement. The steering tube is quite long at 185mm and a thread of 45mm is required for the head set. I've seen some forks that have the length i.e. Over 230m but the threaded portion is much too long. It is OK to have a longer threaded portion as long as the upper bearing cup screws down far enough. I believe off the rack preplacement forks are usually made to be used in a wide variety of sizes so lots of threads. My question is does this actually matter as the top will screw into the race or does the whole 185mm of the steering tube have to be smooth?
The steering tube is also bent and a small dent on one of the forks. Are you sure the frame isn't bent? Inspect the area around the lower headlug very carefully.
I'm having trouble sourcing a cheap replacement. The steering tube is quite long at 185mm and a thread of 45mm is required for the head set. I've seen some forks that have the length i.e. Over 230m but the threaded portion is much too long. It is OK to have a longer threaded portion as long as the upper bearing cup screws down far enough. I believe off the rack preplacement forks are usually made to be used in a wide variety of sizes so lots of threads. My question is does this actually matter as the top will screw into the race or does the whole 185mm of the steering tube have to be smooth?
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#3
one word of caution from personal experience: some of the replacement forks with enormous long threaded (and slotted) portions of the steerer result in a weakened steerer where you need the tube to be strong. Like where an expander wedge bears against the inside...I had one split due to a moderate amount of torquing that would not have even dented a better quality (and smooth) steerer tube.
#4
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Bent steerer tube would, for me, probably mean a new fork. But good pics result in the best answers.
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#6
I think once the steerer tube is bent, the fork is pretty much toast.......
I don't think any frame builder would suggest bending it back straight, and replacement of the steerer tube might be cost prohibitive as a replacement fork might cost just as much.....or less...
BTW, bending a steerer tube in a crash might mean there's more damage than what's easily seen as it would have taken a lot of impact force to make it happen. Make sure to check the top and down tunes for any bending or buckling......
I don't think any frame builder would suggest bending it back straight, and replacement of the steerer tube might be cost prohibitive as a replacement fork might cost just as much.....or less...
BTW, bending a steerer tube in a crash might mean there's more damage than what's easily seen as it would have taken a lot of impact force to make it happen. Make sure to check the top and down tunes for any bending or buckling......
Last edited by Chombi1; 04-18-17 at 12:17 PM.
#7
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#8
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Hi folks thanks for all the advice. I agree repair I don't think is an option. I'll try to post pictures of the fork and measurements. The Tange fork looks good but very expensive and I've also found a couple of NOS items. Finally a Bianchi fork that looks to be from a later bike.
#9
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On the frame it seems ok though the whole thing is very flakey. I'll have it painted and checked anyhow.
As I can't seem to post pictures from my iPad more details on my blog : spindleandspoke.wordpress.com
As I can't seem to post pictures from my iPad more details on my blog : spindleandspoke.wordpress.com
#10
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Thanks for the advice I will try to keep the threaded portion to a minimum.
#11
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There are more pics on my blog spindleandspoke@wordpress.com.
#12
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I can't seem to get your link to work. Are you in Europe? That might explain the tubing.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#13
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Bianchi 1-20 tubing was their own in house chrome alloy tubing used on several of their bikes. Spindleandspoke@wordpress.com
#14
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I'm located in the U.K. And this bike was made in Italy. OFmega was a competitor to Campagnolo but more budget. I have a couple of their hubs on my Holdsworth and they look nice.
#16
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Thank you for manspainin Ofmega cranks.
Funny when I was at the auto garage this morning I did a little research on the 1-20 tubing and a bike very similar to this was one of the first images. I love that turquoise color. The shifters are friction not the later indexing or SIS shifters, and I believe they belong to the BL- groupings.
I would love to see a good straight side on shot of the head and down tube junction. You see how the pait is flaked and chipped there and has those thin cracks that run around the tubing? That is a good sign that frame itself took a good jarring when the fork get bent. I suspect someone really slammed into a curb or maybe fell into a pothole or sewer grate.
Funny when I was at the auto garage this morning I did a little research on the 1-20 tubing and a bike very similar to this was one of the first images. I love that turquoise color. The shifters are friction not the later indexing or SIS shifters, and I believe they belong to the BL- groupings.
I would love to see a good straight side on shot of the head and down tube junction. You see how the pait is flaked and chipped there and has those thin cracks that run around the tubing? That is a good sign that frame itself took a good jarring when the fork get bent. I suspect someone really slammed into a curb or maybe fell into a pothole or sewer grate.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#17
A local framebulder could likely replace the steer tube, and repair or replace the fork blades. But, it would get expensive quickly.
What are your goals for the bike? Commuter/Town bike? Show bike? Somewhere in between?
I'd probably hunt down a good replacement fork. Non-Bianchi. Keep that one in case someone in the future wishes tinker with it. The crown should be good.
What are your goals for the bike? Commuter/Town bike? Show bike? Somewhere in between?
I'd probably hunt down a good replacement fork. Non-Bianchi. Keep that one in case someone in the future wishes tinker with it. The crown should be good.
#18
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Update on Forks
Hi folks I've sourced a set of forks from the USA by eBay. Tange forks 3E chromed up they look great. I hope they arrive in one price.
#19
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Thank you for manspainin Ofmega cranks.
Funny when I was at the auto garage this morning I did a little research on the 1-20 tubing and a bike very similar to this was one of the first images. I love that turquoise color. The shifters are friction not the later indexing or SIS shifters, and I believe they belong to the BL- groupings.
I would love to see a good straight side on shot of the head and down tube junction. You see how the pait is flaked and chipped there and has those thin cracks that run around the tubing? That is a good sign that frame itself took a good jarring when the fork get bent. I suspect someone really slammed into a curb or maybe fell into a pothole or sewer grate.
Funny when I was at the auto garage this morning I did a little research on the 1-20 tubing and a bike very similar to this was one of the first images. I love that turquoise color. The shifters are friction not the later indexing or SIS shifters, and I believe they belong to the BL- groupings.
I would love to see a good straight side on shot of the head and down tube junction. You see how the pait is flaked and chipped there and has those thin cracks that run around the tubing? That is a good sign that frame itself took a good jarring when the fork get bent. I suspect someone really slammed into a curb or maybe fell into a pothole or sewer grate.








