Re-dishing question
#1
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From: Williamsburg, VA Sebastian, FL
Bikes: 1987 Centurion Ironman Master, 1992 Koga Miyata Exerciser, 1992 Schwinn Crosscut
Re-dishing question
After switching from a 7-speed freehub body to a 9-speed, I need to re-dish the wheel to center it.
I need to shift it a total of 5mm towards the cassette side, and my question is this:
Can it be accomplished using the same spokes?
I need to shift it a total of 5mm towards the cassette side, and my question is this:
Can it be accomplished using the same spokes?
#2
Yes. The tension on the drive-side spokes will be substantially higher, but it's manageable.
IMO, if the wheel is going on a steel frame, I would rebuild the hub to 135mm width and spread the frame. I've had good success with 9-speed road wheels on 135mm width hubs, less so with 130mm width.
IMO, if the wheel is going on a steel frame, I would rebuild the hub to 135mm width and spread the frame. I've had good success with 9-speed road wheels on 135mm width hubs, less so with 130mm width.
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#3
To the OP, you could measure your new hub dimensions with the extra 5mm and enter into a spoke calculator to see what difference it makes to "optimal" spoke length. I'm guessing it's minimal and that you're fine with the spokes you have.
#6
What??? Only 2 wheels?


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My first thought was that 5mm seems a lot. Spoke length is probably not an issue; run some number though a spo0ke calculator (which I haven't had a chance to do yet) and you'll probably find less than 1mm change. DS tension could be a problem however.
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#7
feros ferio

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Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I concur with the sentiments of this thread. Tell us more about spoke count, hub type, and proposed flange-to-center offset for each side of the wheel. You will run into tension problems before your run into spoke length issues.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#8
The Infractionator
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Classic road bikes: 1986 Cannondale, 1978 Trek
If this is on a 126mm spacing, would it even be possible? 7-sp on a 126 is already pretty heavily dished, and on the wheels I've built, there is SIGNIFICANTLY more tension on the drive-side. Making an even MORE heavily-dished wheel may bring the drive-side spoke tension up quite a bit, maybe too much.
#9
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From: Williamsburg, VA Sebastian, FL
Bikes: 1987 Centurion Ironman Master, 1992 Koga Miyata Exerciser, 1992 Schwinn Crosscut
Spacing is already 130mm, and the hub is an Exage.
My LBS guy seems to think he can get the wheel centered on the frame by tweaking the axle spacers...so I hope he is successful.
Thanks for the replies and advice!
My LBS guy seems to think he can get the wheel centered on the frame by tweaking the axle spacers...so I hope he is successful.
Thanks for the replies and advice!
#10
Catching Smallmouth
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The aluminum Shimano hub itself is the same for 7 speed and 8/9/10 speed. The axle, freehub and other assorted small parts make up the difference. If you add a 8/9/10 freehub and go from 126 to 130 OLD you will have the same amount of dish as an 8 speed wheel and they seem to hold up just fine. I've done this several times, swapped in a 8/9/10 freehub and set spacing at 130 OLD, and not had any issues. Spoke length was never a problem. I did back off all the nipples several turns and worked my way back up, balancing spoke tension and checking dish as I went.
#11
I'd like to know more about this recommendation. I have zero issues with 10 speed hubs spaced at 130mm width. I'm even running 11 speed on one bike. Are you encountering interference with the stays or something?
To the OP, you could measure your new hub dimensions with the extra 5mm and enter into a spoke calculator to see what difference it makes to "optimal" spoke length. I'm guessing it's minimal and that you're fine with the spokes you have.
To the OP, you could measure your new hub dimensions with the extra 5mm and enter into a spoke calculator to see what difference it makes to "optimal" spoke length. I'm guessing it's minimal and that you're fine with the spokes you have.
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Jeff Wills
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#12
I had one wheel that the nipples bottomed out when re-dishing, so I took out all the DS nipples and added two nipple washers. Easier than trying to thread and cut the spokes.
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