oddjob2

1989 SR900


More photos

Chr0m0ly 

I looked up that 900 and while an awesome bike it looks to be the road race frame, not the Criterium frame? I'm sure it's more responsive than the ST's and most likely the Miyata's but I'd still be jonesing for the Crit frame.

howellhandmade

You do want the Cannondale Criterium, then. I like mine a lot, and I think the combination of geometry and as-stiff-as-possible construction makes for a unique feel. Just watch c-list; I got mine for $150.

Chr0m0ly 

Well definitely "a Crit frame". I think a Cannondale will prove to be the easiest to find at a reasonable price, but having a few models to search for widens the net.

Gary Fountain

Something to consider and Pure Crit: '85 Cinelli Supercorsa. You have to pay attention to what you are doing to ride this in a straight line - it takes concentration which, during a race, is what you are doing anyway.

With the following geometry it is surprisingly stable and fun to ride: 74 degree seat tube angle; 75 1/2 degree head tube angle; short wheelbase; stiff SPX tubing - stiff at the BB. Seat tube 58 1/2 cm c to c - Top tube 57 1/2 cm c to c yet weighing in (without pump, spare single and biddon) at 21 1/2lb.

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Chr0m0ly 

I've been looking at the miyata and Cannondale catalogs and it looks like Cannondale was also steepening up the geometry as the bikes got taller. Maybe to keep the wheelbase short. Miyata's had the same head and seat tube angles throughout the size range.

Makes sense when you think about it. It would be pricy to have different lugs made for every frame size, but with the hand welded aluminum you can have a few jigs made up pretty easily.

This is a cool little rabbit hole I've fallen down.

bradtx

It is a fun niche of the roadies. The steeper HT angles are meant to offset, somewhat, the longer wheelbase of the larger frames (stability) and keep turn-in as close as possible the same as the smaller frames. The geometry of the Cannondale isn't the most extreme of the crit bikes so if you want really aggressive, look elsewhere.

Brad

Chr0m0ly 

What am I looking for then? I'd like something really aggressive but plentiful enough that I can find one and not at collectors prices. I've seen enough 150.00-250.00 Cannondales to know they pop up fairly often. Probably the best compromise.

If I find a chrome lugged beauty moldering away under a tarp in someone's garage I'll jump, that's why I made this thread! So what should I be looking for?

bradtx

I think you're looking in all of the right places. Look for a frame at the smaller range of your fit. I generally ride 58 cm/23" and my crit bikes are 56 cm.

Brad

artclone

This is a fantastic bike, wow. My new favorite.

3alarmer 

...the quick way to eyeball an aggressive Crit bike from the 80's is to look at the distance between the seat tube and the rear wheel/tyre. I tried to show that in my photos of the Gios, but not certain if it comes across well visually.

If it looks tight, stop and measure the relative lengths of seat tube and top tube c-c, and the wheel base.

The wheel base will be relatively short in comparison to other bikes, and the top tube will probably be either about equal to, or a tad shorter than the seat tube. But that depends on the size of the frame, so mostly look for something with a tight rear geometry. Most have slightly steeper head tube angles, but I find that difficult to judge by eye, and hard to measure accurately. And there were a lot of steep head tube bikes made in the later 70's that don't have short wheelbases. I have a Motobecane that comes to mind.

Chr0m0ly 

Also (please correct me) the forks look straighter? Less castor? Looking at a Cannondale road frame and an ST the fork difference seems noticeable. I don't know if that translates to other brands though. But tight tire to seat tube clearance is good. Like the indent in the gazelle.

Bikerider007

@Gary Fountain Nice bike with VIP!

3alarmer 

...the straight fork thing is a fairly recent style change. whether the fork is curved or angles straight out from the crown is more a style decision than anything else. They do have less trail, but that's a function of where the rubber meets the road in front in relation to the bike, and it's difficult to judge without measuring and figuring the trail.

That's hard to do when you're looking at something to buy cheap off Craiglist.

3alarmer 

criterium bike geometry

RiddleOfSteel

Another vote for vintage Cannondales. Cannondale steepened things progressively from their initial offerings in 1983. By 1985/1986 they had road/race bikes and lovely geometry. I am speaking from 63cm and 66cm experience. My 63cm is an '86 SR400 with a 73.5° HT and that plus the trail make it stable if you want, but also free and fast to throw into a turn and hold the line. Really lovely stuff. My 66cm is an '89 SR800--full aluminum. 74.75° HT with proper trail. Stable over 40mph, responsive at lower speeds. It rides like a big bike. Sticking to the lower end of your size range is a good idea I think. I bought an '89 SR700 in the 54cm or 56cm size (with the intention to sell) and it was quite nice.



I think some sleeper choices, certainly more rare, are the Super Sport and Peloton geometry twins of '84 and '85. HT angles at 73.7° for my '85 Peloton ('85 SS would be the same) and 74.3° for my '84 SS (Peloton would be the same that year). The Peloton especially is race-bred. Stable when you need, but a bit bored. Loves turns and reacts to surface imperfections. Both bikes are great out of the saddle, the SS will really spring under power. Good stuff!

OldsCOOL

Cannondale Criterium. The sun really does set on them.

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sdn40

You can update the Cannondale Criteriums to your liking as well. My 1988 3.0 is 98% finished.
The dropouts can receive 130 wheelsets with coaxing but you can't cold set obviously (aluminum). I like the look of a modern rim.
If you need to powder coat - that can be done as well. My guy does it for $115, but that price may be different where you live. Oh and they are light.
You can fit 25's but dont think you can squeeze in 28's.
After market decals are available. I went with vinyl
Headsets are 1" and you can update that if you wish
You can customize to your liking and come way under the price of new
This was my first build - so anyone can do it - especially with the help of the fine folks here

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Chr0m0ly 

https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik/6120320126.html
This looks like the same bike as OddJob2s offering, an SR900. Is there anyway to tell if it's the 1989 criterium or the 1990 road race geometry? I emailed the seller about the size and serial number. It's a 23" so that's good, I think the 21" would be small. They didn't make a 22".

bradtx

The roadies are sized in metric, except the touring bikes. The '89 does not have a replaceable RD hanger, the '90 will.

Brad

Chr0m0ly 

You're right, 23" is what he told me when I asked. I'm hoping he measured to the top of the seat tube and it's more like a 56 than a 58, but the serial number will tell all. I'll ask about the hanger, thank you!

sdn40

Mine pictured above is an '88 3.0 and a 58cm
Judging by the head space in that pic, it looks smaller

Chr0m0ly 

Anyone know Ron Boi? Found this bike by a Chicago frame builder, I've texted about size and geometry.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/bik/6113431326.html

screaminDOHC

My vote is for the Aluminum Schwinns (I have an '89 974). Ridiculously stiff, great handling....

Chr0m0ly 

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/6156391846.html

Would it be safe to assume that you would not be able to fit a fender on the back wheel of a Cannondale Criterium?