How bad is this frame rust?
#1
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: Trek 510, Dahon Classic III, Specialized Tricross, Raleigh Technium 460
How bad is this frame rust?
Hey fellas,
I have an '85 Trek 510 with some wrinkled paint on the top tube. Upon further investigation I realized it is rust forming underneath the paint. I scraped a bit away with a flathead and it did reveal fresh steel. The rust was about as thin as the layer of paint.
Is this still safe to ride?


I have an '85 Trek 510 with some wrinkled paint on the top tube. Upon further investigation I realized it is rust forming underneath the paint. I scraped a bit away with a flathead and it did reveal fresh steel. The rust was about as thin as the layer of paint.
Is this still safe to ride?
#2
mycocyclist
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 993
From: Monkey Junction, Wilmington, NC
Bikes: 1964 Schwinn Paramount P-13 DeLuxe, 1964 Schwinn Sport Super Sport, 1972 Falcon San Remo, 1974 Maserati MT-1, 1974 Raleigh International, 1984 Lotus Odyssey, 198? Rossin Ghibli, 1990 LeMond Le Vanquer (sic), 1991 Specialized Allez Transition Pro, +
Filiform corrosion generally will not affect the structural integrity of the frame. Usually it is a direct effect of the owner (or PO) failing to care for their bike: at least toweling off the sweat they've rained down upon the frame. Sometimes it can be the result of bad paint, or paint job as well.
Pull the seat tube and check for internal corrosion; always a good idea in any case...
But don't sweat the surface stuff. Treat it, maintain your bicycle, and ride on.
(Oh, and pics don't show, for me anyway. Please try again. We appreciate pics. Pics are worth many words. I wish I had a pic to express how many...)
Pull the seat tube and check for internal corrosion; always a good idea in any case...
But don't sweat the surface stuff. Treat it, maintain your bicycle, and ride on.
(Oh, and pics don't show, for me anyway. Please try again. We appreciate pics. Pics are worth many words. I wish I had a pic to express how many...)
Last edited by machinist42; 06-12-17 at 03:27 PM. Reason: pic up, or not. fili like it
#4
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: Trek 510, Dahon Classic III, Specialized Tricross, Raleigh Technium 460
Filoform corrosion generally will not affect the structural integrity of the frame. Usually it is a direct effect of the owner (or PO) failing to care for their bike: at least toweling off the sweat they've rained down upon the frame. Sometimes it can be the result of bad paint, or paint job as well.
Pull the seat tube and check for internal corrosion; always a good idea in any case...
But don't sweat the surface stuff. Treat it, maintain your bicycle, and ride on.
(Oh, and pics don't show, for me anyway. Please try again. We appreciate pics. Pics are worth many words. I wish I had a pic to express how many...)
Pull the seat tube and check for internal corrosion; always a good idea in any case...
But don't sweat the surface stuff. Treat it, maintain your bicycle, and ride on.
(Oh, and pics don't show, for me anyway. Please try again. We appreciate pics. Pics are worth many words. I wish I had a pic to express how many...)



The seat tube looks okay for the most part as well. Maybe some more surface rust on the inside but not a whole lot. How does this look? (there's a bit more about midway down but I couldn't get my camera to focus)

I also didn't notice this before but there is a seam on the backside of the seat tube, which I'm assuming is for the tightening screw. Is this correct? It just looks a little rough so I thought I'd ask.


Thanks for your help!
#5
mycocyclist
Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Monkey Junction, Wilmington, NC
Bikes: 1964 Schwinn Paramount P-13 DeLuxe, 1964 Schwinn Sport Super Sport, 1972 Falcon San Remo, 1974 Maserati MT-1, 1974 Raleigh International, 1984 Lotus Odyssey, 198? Rossin Ghibli, 1990 LeMond Le Vanquer (sic), 1991 Specialized Allez Transition Pro, +
Your photos show filiform corrosion. Seat tube looks relatively free of rust, if some of the brown is grease as I suspect.
I'll leave evaluation of the seat tube cinch area to more those more learned in frame building.
(I will note, however, that closeups of corrosion gives me the willies; rather too much like looking too close in the mirror in the morning, or using one of those magnifying mirrors... Ack.)
I'll leave evaluation of the seat tube cinch area to more those more learned in frame building.
(I will note, however, that closeups of corrosion gives me the willies; rather too much like looking too close in the mirror in the morning, or using one of those magnifying mirrors... Ack.)
Last edited by machinist42; 06-12-17 at 03:26 PM. Reason: correcting autocorrect
#6
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: Trek 510, Dahon Classic III, Specialized Tricross, Raleigh Technium 460
Your photos show filoform corrosion. Seat tube looks relatively free of rust, if some of the brown is grease as I suspect.
I'll leave evaluation of the seat tube cinch area to more those more learned in frame building.
(I will note, however, that closeups of corrosion gives me the willies; rather too much like looking too close in the mirror in the morning, or using one of those magnifying mirrors... Ack.)
I'll leave evaluation of the seat tube cinch area to more those more learned in frame building.
(I will note, however, that closeups of corrosion gives me the willies; rather too much like looking too close in the mirror in the morning, or using one of those magnifying mirrors... Ack.)
That sums up what I was feeling while looking closely at this. Also not sure how I feel about knowing these could be caused by the previous owner's sweat. But I hope this is the worst of it. There are no other filiform corrosion anywhere else, just paint chips and scuffs all around. How should I treat this? Just sand off the rust and paint? I have some black enamel automotive paint that I was thinking of brushing into those spots and wet sanding to make uniform.
I really appreciate your feedback!
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2012
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From: NEW ZEALAND
Bikes: Marin Bolinas ridge, Carlton Corsa 5, Falcon Olympic 12, 98 Shesh Rockhopper,
That slit in the seat tube is meant to be there and just neeeds a clean, jam a rag in the seat tube first to stop any crud contaminating the bottom bracket
#8
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: NEW ZEALAND
Bikes: Marin Bolinas ridge, Carlton Corsa 5, Falcon Olympic 12, 98 Shesh Rockhopper,
I personally would not worry too much about the rust, it can get a lot worse but will really take some time, remember the bike is only original once, people demonise rust and while it is bad it will be a long time before it compromises the integrity of the frames structure.
If you want to see bad rust have a look at some of the other threads, my thread on my 1958 Jacques Anquetil, which is further down the page, enjoy the bike mate.
If you want to see bad rust have a look at some of the other threads, my thread on my 1958 Jacques Anquetil, which is further down the page, enjoy the bike mate.
#9
mycocyclist
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,319
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From: Monkey Junction, Wilmington, NC
Bikes: 1964 Schwinn Paramount P-13 DeLuxe, 1964 Schwinn Sport Super Sport, 1972 Falcon San Remo, 1974 Maserati MT-1, 1974 Raleigh International, 1984 Lotus Odyssey, 198? Rossin Ghibli, 1990 LeMond Le Vanquer (sic), 1991 Specialized Allez Transition Pro, +
That sums up what I was feeling while looking closely at this. Also not sure how I feel about knowing these could be caused by the previous owner's sweat. But I hope this is the worst of it. There are no other filiform corrosion anywhere else, just paint chips and scuffs all around. How should I treat this? Just sand off the rust and paint? I have some black enamel automotive paint that I was thinking of brushing into those spots and wet sanding to make uniform.
I really appreciate your feedback!
There is a way that seems to work for infiltrating the "spider veins" of filiform corrosion, but it is very involved, and I'm not sure it works any better than keeping the sweat off the bike.
I use clear nail polish or clear coat to keep the paint chips and such from rusting. A good synthetic wax can work for a while too. (My Allez is an exception (for me). It has a "matte/satin" finish which is not to be waxed, so I match it with a 80% flat, 20% gloss mix of black auto touch up paint, after priming. <sigh emoticon>) Matching paint colour rarely seems to work, though there are those on BF whose work is stunningly impressive.
(I blame auto-correct for "filo". That, and my appreciation for Greek food... I am rather peckish.)
#11
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Bikes: Trek 510, Dahon Classic III, Specialized Tricross, Raleigh Technium 460
Awesome. Thanks all!
My bottom bracket socket came in the mail today (just in time!) and I was able to remove and inspect the frame in that spot. Looks like a bit of surface rust (similar to seat tube) and nothing major.
One last question! Is it too late to think about applying frame saver at this stage? I would need to buy it but not sure if it's worth it.
I do have some motorcycle chain lube/wax spray that I can possibly use. I saw something like that being mentioned elsewhere on the web.
My bottom bracket socket came in the mail today (just in time!) and I was able to remove and inspect the frame in that spot. Looks like a bit of surface rust (similar to seat tube) and nothing major.
One last question! Is it too late to think about applying frame saver at this stage? I would need to buy it but not sure if it's worth it.
I do have some motorcycle chain lube/wax spray that I can possibly use. I saw something like that being mentioned elsewhere on the web.
#12
mycocyclist
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 993
From: Monkey Junction, Wilmington, NC
Bikes: 1964 Schwinn Paramount P-13 DeLuxe, 1964 Schwinn Sport Super Sport, 1972 Falcon San Remo, 1974 Maserati MT-1, 1974 Raleigh International, 1984 Lotus Odyssey, 198? Rossin Ghibli, 1990 LeMond Le Vanquer (sic), 1991 Specialized Allez Transition Pro, +
Awesome. Thanks all!
My bottom bracket socket came in the mail today (just in time!) and I was able to remove and inspect the frame in that spot. Looks like a bit of surface rust (similar to seat tube) and nothing major.
One last question! Is it too late to think about applying frame saver at this stage? I would need to buy it but not sure if it's worth it.
I do have some motorcycle chain lube/wax spray that I can possibly use. I saw something like that being mentioned elsewhere on the web.
My bottom bracket socket came in the mail today (just in time!) and I was able to remove and inspect the frame in that spot. Looks like a bit of surface rust (similar to seat tube) and nothing major.
One last question! Is it too late to think about applying frame saver at this stage? I would need to buy it but not sure if it's worth it.
I do have some motorcycle chain lube/wax spray that I can possibly use. I saw something like that being mentioned elsewhere on the web.
As an aside, the "treatment" I've been using is a new product of the WD-40 company which antique gun aficionados have been touting: "WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor." It's inexpensive as it's new. (I am not affiliated with WD-40, nor compensated.)
#13
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: Trek 510, Dahon Classic III, Specialized Tricross, Raleigh Technium 460
It is not too late to apply an interior coating to your frame, if that's what you choose to do. Their is no clear consensus on whether it is necessary, and my personal experience is inconclusive. I live 500 feet from the ocean, and I've treated some of my bikes and haven't treated others. (However, I should note I flush the tubes of my bikes with phosphoric acid when I acquire them, and that does leave a corrosion resistant coating, so they sort of are "treated", though not in the same sense as you mention. So far, no internal corrosion on the "untreated". Your experience may differ.) It can't really do any harm?
As an aside, the "treatment" I've been using is a new product of the WD-40 company which antique gun aficionados have been touting: "WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor." It's inexpensive as it's new. (I am not affiliated with WD-40, nor compensated.)
As an aside, the "treatment" I've been using is a new product of the WD-40 company which antique gun aficionados have been touting: "WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor." It's inexpensive as it's new. (I am not affiliated with WD-40, nor compensated.)
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