gugie 

No problem getting the fenders you want. Take a look at my setup:



Velo Orange sells them in aluminum and stainless. I have 30mm of clearance on mine, which is pretty big. You can easily massage them to a bit tighter clearance, I went big for this bike as it's purpose built for gravel riding. City riding you 20mm of clearance would be just fine. Put a mud flap on the front if you're riding in the rain a lot, otherwise your bottom bracket area will get gunked up.

gugie 

With your motorcycle maintenance experience, I'd recommend that you do it all. I searched for "Cincinnati bicycle co-op" and came up with this. For $20 you can go in and use their tools and be helped by volunteers who know a lot about bikes.

Co-ops are a great resource for those that want DIY.

gugie 

I'm liking where you're headed! There are a lot of new bikes on the market that are made pretty much like that brand new, whereas you've purchased the perfect raw material to make yours just so for a fraction of the price. At some point, after riding it awhile and really like it, you could strip it down and have it powder coated, then rebuilt with drop bars. And that co-op I mentioned in another post probably has most of the parts you'd need used, so you can do it on the cheap.

But you're right, I'd just get the mechanicals in good shape, put some new rubber, cables, and chain on it, and ride it for awhile. You can always do the dropped bar conversion later.

mattfeet

Ended up having my LBS price-match the Maxxis DTH tires in 26x2.15. Not a huge fan of the Maxxis logo but I think it'll be small enough to be rather inoffensive. I figured Ill definitely get the tires I want now, then give myself some additional time to figure out the fenders. The guy at the LBS did warn me that the stock Saddle will "split me in half" being a bigger guy and that is has more of a convex shape (edge-center-edge) than more modern saddles which are more "flat" or "concave" to give our bathing suit bits a bit more room to relax. Any truth to this?

Im eyeing the Brooks Cadmium C19. As aforementioned, Im not a small guy (6'4 260lb) so I think the larger C19 would fit me better than the more standard B/C17 models. I love the tailored looks of the Cadmium models as well. Just not sure if it's silly to spend $100 on a saddle for a $125 bike.

jpaschall

Give the saddle a try first. If it hurts, then you can figure out why and what will work better.

Regarding putting money into a "$125 bike": what you have is much more valuable than $125; it is a worthwhile candidate for putting money into if you intend to ride a decent amount.

mattfeet

Fair enough!

Bandera

When it is tuned up just go ride your bike, and then ride it some more taking time off as required for recovery.
When the inevitable various aches & pains occur don't go messing around w/ random parts switching trying to "fix" things unless you are interested in wasting both $$$ and time. Have the shop help w/ setting your seat height and have at it for a few weeks.

To get to know a machine and to get physically comfortable w/ bike riding on a regular basis it takes your Adaption to the activity and the position, for which there is no substitute for Seat Time. Once a base of time/miles are in tinker away. Your best 1st time purchase is most likely not hardware but cycling shorts.

-Bandera

Salamandrine 

No. That isn't even true as a gross generalization.

Saddles are a pretty individual thing. Shapes varied then and they varied now. And no, that saddle isn't going to split you in half. Wide saddles seem like they'd be comfortable, but if you ride more than a few blocks, they aren't. Try the one on there first. Avocet were the SOTA at that time and usually an aftermarket upgrade option. If you do put a different saddle on there at some point, I'd venture a guess that a B17 would work well.

And like everyone is saying: that isn't a $125 bike. You just scored. Think of it like an $850 frame that you got for $125 - along with some free parts as a bonus.

Lascauxcaveman 

All this "try it a bit before you change everything" advice? This is good advice.

And if it's been a long time since you've been in the saddle, it's going to take awhile before you get used to it again. So if you're feeling sore down under, it may not be your saddles fault. It's going to take awhile before you can ride more than a few miles at a stretch.

mattfeet

Good info, thanks Gents. I definitely do need new grips. Was thinking of getting the nice Brooks Cadmium (to match my potential future saddle) but I think I may just get something cheap for now and then match them up to my saddle once I know which direction Im going there. If I grab a B17, Ill likely go honey in color.

mattfeet

I do know two things I would like to do if you could pass along some recommendations.

1.) The current front axle is NOT a quick release. While by no means a deal breaker, it would be nice to turn it into one. Possible, I assume?

2.) I would like to replace the seat post clamp. As you can see in the pictures, the stock one is rusty as all hell. Any recommendations?

mattfeet

Getting excited. Bike should be done tomorrow. Any insight to my above questions?

jpaschall

You need to replace the entire threaded axle to a hollow axle to go from bolt to qr, certainly possible. I've never had a QR seatpost clamp, so not sure on replacements for that. Might try a brass brush to get some of the rust off.

Salamandrine 

IMO clean that QR clamp up with a brass brush and some barkeeper's friend, and use it till you get your seat height dialed in. Then replace the QR seatpost bolt with a fixed bolt. Simple, reliable, less weight, no one steals your seat. The idea with the seat QR was that you could lower your seat for sketchy downhills, and get way low and back on your bike. Not really necessary, but some people like them. Still plenty for sale if you look.

WRT the front wheel, it's pretty easy to swap out an axle for a hollow one. Maybe a good first DIY maintenance thing.

BigFinner

I would say ride it for a while with the bars and shifter set up as is. My bet would be they grow on you quite quickly.

due ruote 

Bear in mind that saddle comfort or lack of it has more to do with your sit bone measurement than the overall size of your caboose.
lots of people (including me) find Avocet saddles very comfortable. They were a popular touring choice back then.

beicster 

Have you checked the serial number against the vintage trek database? That frame has a 501 sticker on it. The 85's had True Temper, not Reynolds tubing. Reynolds 501 was last offered in 84. And, the parts are what is listed for the 84 model including the bolt on front hub. But, the color looks a whole lot more like an 85 to me. I have heard of Trek respraying old frames in the next year's color so they could sell them as the new model. Maybe that is what happened here. FWIW, I like my 501 tubed road bike. And, I am just two hours down I 75 from you if ever decide to get rid of that bike.

mattfeet

LBS just called to tell me the bike is ready for pickup. Ill check serial tonight and post up.

mattfeet

Where is the serial?

jpaschall

Bottom bracket shell. Post some pics!

mattfeet

Serial looks to be 144599. Will get some pics tomorrow. Maxxis tires look great! Rode it down the block and back and it really rides nice. Fits me super well. I appreciate the recommendation on this bike. I think it'll be a good fit.

mattfeet

Looks like bike was built on 8/22/1984. Pretty cool!

grayEZrider

After 20 miles, if it isn't a good fit you'l realize it's money for your backside, not the bike!

The Golden Boy 

One thing about any "upright" bars- you only have a few hand positions. On any of my flat bars, my hands get really tired after around 7 miles. Your choice in grips can alleviate that to a great degree. I haven't used them, but a lot of people swear by the Ergon style grips:




My bullmoose bars have old "mushroom" grips- they're OK. If I rode that bike more often, I'd go for the cork looking Ergon style paddle grips.

BTW, if you're talking about the Brooks stuff- its "Cambium". I've got 2 of the saddles- they're my favorite.

Looking forward to pix of your bike!!!

mattfeet

Yea, Cambium is what I meant. Ill throw some pics up tonight and more this weekend after I start to clean it up a bit. I took it for a *very* short test ride down my street and back and it's a smoooooooooth ride. Not entirely understanding of the friction thumb shifters...definitely need to read up on those a bit to better understand best usage/practices.