Tuning my Nishiki
#1
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Joined: Aug 2017
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Tuning my Nishiki
So currently i have a nishiki landau tri a and it runs pretty well but i was thinking of using it for races etc. it is quite a good bike being to hold 40km/h quite consistently and i was thinking of upgrading it or tuning it and it currently runs on a 105 setup ive made small tuning adjustments like a new seat and seat post and i was wondering what is recommende for me to do to make it faster and lighter. i was thinking maybe like dura ace DT shifters?
#2
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I know you want to race, but SLOW DOWN and take a breath.
Some punctuation, like periods and commas would make your post far easier to read.
Anyway, I doubt that changing shift levers would do you much good, unless yours are so worn as to be unreliable.
Not knowing what you have, and thinking of tri events and or time trials, I think your best bang for the buck might be a set of tri bars to improve you aero profile.
Otherwise, maybe wheels, but not knowing much more than you gave on that one breath, I'd say it really depends on the details, and suggest you look at whatever is now you most worn or troublesome part and replace that first. Then play devil take the hindmost, and continue upgrades working on oldest/worst first.
Some punctuation, like periods and commas would make your post far easier to read.
Anyway, I doubt that changing shift levers would do you much good, unless yours are so worn as to be unreliable.
Not knowing what you have, and thinking of tri events and or time trials, I think your best bang for the buck might be a set of tri bars to improve you aero profile.
Otherwise, maybe wheels, but not knowing much more than you gave on that one breath, I'd say it really depends on the details, and suggest you look at whatever is now you most worn or troublesome part and replace that first. Then play devil take the hindmost, and continue upgrades working on oldest/worst first.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 449
From: Upper Left, USA
Tires. Good tires are lighter where it counts (on the outside of the rim, so fewer grams have more of an impact on rideability of the bike) and handle and ride a ton better than old and/or cheap tires.
Lighter wheels make a big difference too.
What kind of racing? You may be able to get away with downtube shifters in time trials and tris (they are lighter anyways,) but integrated shift/brake levers will be your friend in criteriums or road racing especially if you are just now learning how to use downtube shifters. Start looking into aero bars or aero clip-ons if you are doing tris and/or time trials.
Lighter wheels make a big difference too.
What kind of racing? You may be able to get away with downtube shifters in time trials and tris (they are lighter anyways,) but integrated shift/brake levers will be your friend in criteriums or road racing especially if you are just now learning how to use downtube shifters. Start looking into aero bars or aero clip-ons if you are doing tris and/or time trials.
#4
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,212
Likes: 3,123
The subject bicycle is a 1990, Canadian market, Nishiki Landau Tri-A with Shimano 105SC components and a Tange Infinity main triangle. The OEM fork has been replaced by an aluminum model and the OP was talking of replacing the rear wheel, based on his mechanic's recommendation that it would probably not hold true. The OP never reported back on the status of this.
In general, you don't make bicycles faster, you make riders faster. There are only three accepted "go faster" mods for a bicycle. First is to replace the frame with an aerodynamic model. Second, are aerodynamic wheels. Third, are aerodynamic/triathlon handlebars which are only legal in time trials and triathlons. All other aero equipment have negligible benefits.
Of course, the problem with aero equipment is that it is typically heavier than standard equipment, unless you are willing to spend big dollars. At a claimed 23 lbs, the Landau Ttri-A is reasonably light for its age and level, and yours should be slightly lighter due to the replacement fork. The most significant weight saving is to be made by switching from the 700C wheelset, to a tubular wheelset, providing you're willing to put up with the higher cost and maintenance of tublar tyres.
There is nothing wrong with the 105SC components. Performance is almost on par with Dura-Ace and the weight penalty is only about 190g. The down tube Dura-Ace shift levers will only save 3g. and are, in fact, incompatible with the cable pull ratio of the 105SC rea derailleur, though there is a workaround with alternate cable routing.
Personally, my advice is to leave the bicycle in its current state and race for a season, to see whether you like it or not. Put the effort into training, rather than upgrades, as there is a high percentage of "wannabes" who hang up the bicycle after the first few races.
In general, you don't make bicycles faster, you make riders faster. There are only three accepted "go faster" mods for a bicycle. First is to replace the frame with an aerodynamic model. Second, are aerodynamic wheels. Third, are aerodynamic/triathlon handlebars which are only legal in time trials and triathlons. All other aero equipment have negligible benefits.
Of course, the problem with aero equipment is that it is typically heavier than standard equipment, unless you are willing to spend big dollars. At a claimed 23 lbs, the Landau Ttri-A is reasonably light for its age and level, and yours should be slightly lighter due to the replacement fork. The most significant weight saving is to be made by switching from the 700C wheelset, to a tubular wheelset, providing you're willing to put up with the higher cost and maintenance of tublar tyres.
There is nothing wrong with the 105SC components. Performance is almost on par with Dura-Ace and the weight penalty is only about 190g. The down tube Dura-Ace shift levers will only save 3g. and are, in fact, incompatible with the cable pull ratio of the 105SC rea derailleur, though there is a workaround with alternate cable routing.
Personally, my advice is to leave the bicycle in its current state and race for a season, to see whether you like it or not. Put the effort into training, rather than upgrades, as there is a high percentage of "wannabes" who hang up the bicycle after the first few races.
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
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Thanks
The subject bicycle is a 1990, Canadian market, Nishiki Landau Tri-A with Shimano 105SC components and a Tange Infinity main triangle. The OEM fork has been replaced by an aluminum model and the OP was talking of replacing the rear wheel, based on his mechanic's recommendation that it would probably not hold true. The OP never reported back on the status of this.
In general, you don't make bicycles faster, you make riders faster. There are only three accepted "go faster" mods for a bicycle. First is to replace the frame with an aerodynamic model. Second, are aerodynamic wheels. Third, are aerodynamic/triathlon handlebars which are only legal in time trials and triathlons. All other aero equipment have negligible benefits.
Of course, the problem with aero equipment is that it is typically heavier than standard equipment, unless you are willing to spend big dollars. At a claimed 23 lbs, the Landau Ttri-A is reasonably light for its age and level, and yours should be slightly lighter due to the replacement fork. The most significant weight saving is to be made by switching from the 700C wheelset, to a tubular wheelset, providing you're willing to put up with the higher cost and maintenance of tublar tyres.
There is nothing wrong with the 105SC components. Performance is almost on par with Dura-Ace and the weight penalty is only about 190g. The down tube Dura-Ace shift levers will only save 3g. and are, in fact, incompatible with the cable pull ratio of the 105SC rea derailleur, though there is a workaround with alternate cable routing.
Personally, my advice is to leave the bicycle in its current state and race for a season, to see whether you like it or not. Put the effort into training, rather than upgrades, as there is a high percentage of "wannabes" who hang up the bicycle after the first few races.
In general, you don't make bicycles faster, you make riders faster. There are only three accepted "go faster" mods for a bicycle. First is to replace the frame with an aerodynamic model. Second, are aerodynamic wheels. Third, are aerodynamic/triathlon handlebars which are only legal in time trials and triathlons. All other aero equipment have negligible benefits.
Of course, the problem with aero equipment is that it is typically heavier than standard equipment, unless you are willing to spend big dollars. At a claimed 23 lbs, the Landau Ttri-A is reasonably light for its age and level, and yours should be slightly lighter due to the replacement fork. The most significant weight saving is to be made by switching from the 700C wheelset, to a tubular wheelset, providing you're willing to put up with the higher cost and maintenance of tublar tyres.
There is nothing wrong with the 105SC components. Performance is almost on par with Dura-Ace and the weight penalty is only about 190g. The down tube Dura-Ace shift levers will only save 3g. and are, in fact, incompatible with the cable pull ratio of the 105SC rea derailleur, though there is a workaround with alternate cable routing.
Personally, my advice is to leave the bicycle in its current state and race for a season, to see whether you like it or not. Put the effort into training, rather than upgrades, as there is a high percentage of "wannabes" who hang up the bicycle after the first few races.
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