The Griffon Thread?
#27
Appears well sorted.
that 42-23? As a low gear…
one day I can get back to that. Will take some work.
Jim made a straightforward machine.
the one way back that caught my eye had Columbus PS chainstays. The design that expanded to 24mm just beyond the BB sockets, obviously blacksmithed to fit chainrings. Beef.
The Masi 3V had big chainstays, any bigger and one needs a Tesch S-22
that 42-23? As a low gear…
one day I can get back to that. Will take some work.
Jim made a straightforward machine.
the one way back that caught my eye had Columbus PS chainstays. The design that expanded to 24mm just beyond the BB sockets, obviously blacksmithed to fit chainrings. Beef.
The Masi 3V had big chainstays, any bigger and one needs a Tesch S-22


#28
Well, I guess based on the site below, apparently the max teeth for a Shimano Crane rear derailleur is 28, plus it's friction only...
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...erailleur.html
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...erailleur.html
#29
Crawlin' up, flyin' down


Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,726
Likes: 4,374
From: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
On that note, I realized I'd like to get lower gearing on this bike. Any suggestions? The rear is is 6-speed so not sure how big of a freewheel would work with the rear derailleur. Maybe a new rear derailleur? Best bet might be to get a new crankset. Anything relatively modern that has smaller cogs? Also, would I be able to add indexed shifting (downtube shifters)? Thanks in advance... Here are a few close-up shots of the crankset and rear derailleur.
The significantly less easy way involves swapping out a bunch of parts and likely cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle. This would involve swapping out the crankset for something that accommodates a significantly smaller chainwheel (like down in the 20s or at least the low 30s - personally, I'd go with a triple chainwheel configuration up front but others prefer a compact double)), installing a new bottom bracket that is compatible with the new crankset, a new rear derailleur to handle the chain wrap required for the new gears, and possibly a new front derailleur (maybe, maybe not). If you want indexing, you will likely have to go to 7 or 8+ speeds, which would mean all of the above, plus spreading the rear triangle to accommodate (to 126mm for 7sp, 130 for 8sp+), plus a new rear wheel (certainly a new hub, probably with a freehub/cassette instead of a freewheel), plus new shifters (downtube, barcon or brifter, your call, and depending how many cogs are on the back wheel). I'm probably forgetting something, which someone will no doubt point out.
All doable, and there are lots of resources (including here and in the Mechanics BF forum) to help you through, but it would take some doing. Fortunately, that Griffon is more than a good enough frame to justify pretty much any improvements you want to make.
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
#30
For lower gears, you can go the easy way or the significantly less easy way. The easy way is to get a freewheel with a 28 tooth largest cog. You might also need to get a new, longer chain, but all in all, pretty easy (assuming the current freewheel comes off with no problems). Downside: a 42x28 gear is not all that low (which would have been heretical statement 50 years ago) and no indexing is possible.
The significantly less easy way involves swapping out a bunch of parts and likely cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle. This would involve swapping out the crankset for something that accommodates a significantly smaller chainwheel (like down in the 20s or at least the low 30s - personally, I'd go with a triple chainwheel configuration up front but others prefer a compact double)), installing a new bottom bracket that is compatible with the new crankset, a new rear derailleur to handle the chain wrap required for the new gears, and possibly a new front derailleur (maybe, maybe not). If you want indexing, you will likely have to go to 7 or 8+ speeds, which would mean all of the above, plus spreading the rear triangle to accommodate (to 126mm for 7sp, 130 for 8sp+), plus a new rear wheel (certainly a new hub, probably with a freehub/cassette instead of a freewheel), plus new shifters (downtube, barcon or brifter, your call, and depending how many cogs are on the back wheel). I'm probably forgetting something, which someone will no doubt point out.
All doable, and there are lots of resources (including here and in the Mechanics BF forum) to help you through, but it would take some doing. Fortunately, that Griffon is more than a good enough frame to justify pretty much any improvements you want to make.
The significantly less easy way involves swapping out a bunch of parts and likely cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle. This would involve swapping out the crankset for something that accommodates a significantly smaller chainwheel (like down in the 20s or at least the low 30s - personally, I'd go with a triple chainwheel configuration up front but others prefer a compact double)), installing a new bottom bracket that is compatible with the new crankset, a new rear derailleur to handle the chain wrap required for the new gears, and possibly a new front derailleur (maybe, maybe not). If you want indexing, you will likely have to go to 7 or 8+ speeds, which would mean all of the above, plus spreading the rear triangle to accommodate (to 126mm for 7sp, 130 for 8sp+), plus a new rear wheel (certainly a new hub, probably with a freehub/cassette instead of a freewheel), plus new shifters (downtube, barcon or brifter, your call, and depending how many cogs are on the back wheel). I'm probably forgetting something, which someone will no doubt point out.
All doable, and there are lots of resources (including here and in the Mechanics BF forum) to help you through, but it would take some doing. Fortunately, that Griffon is more than a good enough frame to justify pretty much any improvements you want to make.
#31
Crawlin' up, flyin' down


Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,726
Likes: 4,374
From: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
This might be a short one (twss), but who here owns a Griffon?
This is the only thread I can find on them:
Looking for more info on a mid-70's to early-80's Griffon
For some reason I purchased one on eBay about a month or two ago. It's sitting in my loft right now, but I'll post some pics soon.
I'm not exactly sure what i'm going to do with it.
Most of my riding the past two years or so has been on modern bikes.
Anyhow, Griffon anyone?
This is the only thread I can find on them:
Looking for more info on a mid-70's to early-80's Griffon
For some reason I purchased one on eBay about a month or two ago. It's sitting in my loft right now, but I'll post some pics soon.
I'm not exactly sure what i'm going to do with it.
Most of my riding the past two years or so has been on modern bikes.
Anyhow, Griffon anyone?
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
#32
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I have some bikes.
I have some bikes.
#33
Crawlin' up, flyin' down


Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,726
Likes: 4,374
From: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
#34
Hi-
Sorry for the slow response, but here's what I noted on my s/s. Most of the info will be evident to the trained eye.
#11047 53cm Reynolds 531 PRUGNAT lugs.
Probably dates to 1977. I don't have my build sheets at hand since they are still in Santa Monica.
I built this for a good friend in Los Angeles.
Cheers and Gears
Jim Holly
Chch, NZ










