Chain breaker?
#1
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From: PDX
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Chain breaker?
I realize this maybe should be in the mechanics section, but I would like recommendations for C+V, talking modern day versions of chain breakers, stout, large handles, good quality. I have a couple, one is a cheapy and works ok if you pay close attention, the other is part of a big kit that does small cam chains in motorcycles up to at least 630 mc chains and works very well but takes wrenches to turn everything and is hard to wrangle on smaller chains. I like the looks of the Park tool big one but not the price
, normally that doesn't stop me but I thought I would ask about it here, so what say ye?
, normally that doesn't stop me but I thought I would ask about it here, so what say ye?
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 92
From: New Jersey
You get what you pay for, for the most part...
The park CT-3(.2) is as close to good as you can get for cheap. The master tool is a step up, but it's still a[n investment] cast tool. The older CT-3 has a link-loosening cradle, a feature that has disappeared from the modern version.
The gold standard vintage tool is Shimano's TL-CN30/31. Wonderful work of art, and functional, too. It's successor is the TL-CN32, with plastic handles instead of rosewood. Both, like the master Park, have the pushing pin running on a ball bearing (so the pin doesn't rotate against the chain pin as you screw the pressure screw in). Unlike the Park, they are cast, then machined. They have a built in chain holder for joining chains, but since they were created after the advent of Shimano's chain pin joining system, they do not have a cradle to loosen stiff links (which is easy enough to do without a tool, anyway...).
Of course, of you need a tool to close those silly Campagnolo chains that need to be peened over, the Campy tools are the way to go...and will likely give you a newfound appreciation for how much the Park/Shimano tools cost.
For those with super deep pockets, the Rohloff revolver is always an option...
The park CT-3(.2) is as close to good as you can get for cheap. The master tool is a step up, but it's still a[n investment] cast tool. The older CT-3 has a link-loosening cradle, a feature that has disappeared from the modern version.
The gold standard vintage tool is Shimano's TL-CN30/31. Wonderful work of art, and functional, too. It's successor is the TL-CN32, with plastic handles instead of rosewood. Both, like the master Park, have the pushing pin running on a ball bearing (so the pin doesn't rotate against the chain pin as you screw the pressure screw in). Unlike the Park, they are cast, then machined. They have a built in chain holder for joining chains, but since they were created after the advent of Shimano's chain pin joining system, they do not have a cradle to loosen stiff links (which is easy enough to do without a tool, anyway...).
Of course, of you need a tool to close those silly Campagnolo chains that need to be peened over, the Campy tools are the way to go...and will likely give you a newfound appreciation for how much the Park/Shimano tools cost.
For those with super deep pockets, the Rohloff revolver is always an option...
#5
Me duelen las nalgas

Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
If you happen to need other tools, the Venzo premium bike tool kit includes a very good chain tool. At $65 for the tool kit (sometimes a bit less), it's a good value if it doesn't duplicate your existing set of tools. I have Park and Jagwire tools as well and the Venzo tools compare very favorably in quality. It lacked freewheel tools, a crank wrench and chainring locknut wrench so I bought those separately.
But the chain tool has worked perfectly, including finessing plate tension. However it lacks a replacement pin, which might be a factor for the heavy user.
But the chain tool has worked perfectly, including finessing plate tension. However it lacks a replacement pin, which might be a factor for the heavy user.
#6
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From: Pacific Northwest
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
I only used, and was extremely satisfied with the Park Mini Chain Tool (https://www.parktool.com/product/min...hain-tool-ct-5) for several decades until we added an 11-speed chain in the house. The Mini tool has the feature that turning the pin until it stops would push out an 8-speed pin exactly the right distance. Plus it has the chain loosening cradle. I was disappointed that the fancier Park (3.2, I think) doesn’t have that cradle anymore, but it works on my wife’s 11-speed.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
I agree that the older Park tool is better as you can push a tight link but I recently realized that with the CT-3.2 you can drop a 3 or 4 mm hex key between the sliding cradle and the front and that lets you push a link. Rare enough job that it's not such a PIA.
That Topeak tool looks good though......
That Topeak tool looks good though......
#8
Phyllo-buster


Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
This is one place where I've found the cheap tools work just fine, Cyclo Rivoli for instance. Topeak as well. I had nothing but problems with the big Park and gave up on it, I kept breaking the replaceable pins.
Last edited by clubman; 11-11-17 at 08:29 AM.
#12
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Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
I still use the Cyclo Rivoli I bought when I was 13. Was I supposed to get something better??? 
Seems like it really doesn't matter that much anymore, since chain tools are mostly just used to take off links, not put them back like in the old days. That was always a bit more tricky, back in the dark ages before swaged pins and new generation masterlinks.

Seems like it really doesn't matter that much anymore, since chain tools are mostly just used to take off links, not put them back like in the old days. That was always a bit more tricky, back in the dark ages before swaged pins and new generation masterlinks.
#13
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
I still use the Cyclo Rivoli I bought when I was 13. Was I supposed to get something better??? 
Seems like it really doesn't matter that much anymore, since chain tools are mostly just used to take off links, not put them back like in the old days. That was always a bit more tricky, back in the dark ages before swaged pins and new generation masterlinks.

Seems like it really doesn't matter that much anymore, since chain tools are mostly just used to take off links, not put them back like in the old days. That was always a bit more tricky, back in the dark ages before swaged pins and new generation masterlinks.
But, I don't work on bikes much these days, so it's good enough.
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#14
curmudgineer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,417
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From: Chicago SW burbs
Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here
Hands up, does anyone here besides me salvage links where the pin was inadvertently pushed all the way out, by using a vise and/or other improvised tools to re-insert the pin?
#15
I started with the tiny Rivoli chair tool, way back in college. Always worked well but eventually got lost between moves and the long stints of not working on bikes as other interests came up through the years. A couple of cheaply, no-name chain tools were passed on to me in the last ten or so years, but eventually I decided to get a proper quality chain tool in the form of the Park CT-5 mini chain tool. Not quite shop grade, but has worked flawlessly since I got it some six or seven years ago. I don't think it will ever break on me, so I'll never have an excuse to get anything else......
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72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
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84 Gitane Tour de France.
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86 ALAN Record Carbonio
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89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
#16
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The Park CT-5 is ok for the home use. you can get a few dozen uses out of it before you see loss in performance. also it is not too forgiving if you are not placing the exactly on the chain pin, the rotating pin will brake. the park CT-3.2 is what i've been using for almost a decade. it just works and works and works. rusty chains or not perfect alignment of pin is fine. A very forgiving tool. its also very strong so if it hits the ground it doesn't bend or brake. I recently tried the Park CT-4.3, and its has a very similar action to the CT-3.2 but the handle is really comfortable to hold, makes it easier to stop before the pin falls out. it's pricey though.if you do 10 chains a year i would go for the CT 3.2. also it's worth mentioning the replacement pins are easy to purchase and relatively affordable and eventually you'll need one.








