1983? Centurion Elite RS Questions
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1983? Centurion Elite RS Questions
I am going to apologize up front for my general lack of knowledge and excess of questions that are sure to follow as I build this bike up. I tried to do some research and became a little overwhelmed and wasn’t able to find answers specific enough I felt comfortable to proceed with fixing this bike up.
Long story short, I have been looking for a cheaper bike for a while now to cruise around town, but always seemed to miss out on anything that seemed like a decent deal, then one day at work I noticed a bike leaning up against the steel recycling dumpster at work. It was a Centurion Elite RS, so I did a quick search on my lunch break and figured out it looked like a bike worth salvaging. Rad! I figured I would take it home and tune it up and get it going.
That’s where the questions started. If the method of dating these I found is correct, it looks like this should be a 1983 model. I figured I would just pull it apart and repack bearings and give it a whirl. Upon closer inspection, the spokes were quite corroded and some even bent, along with some rim damage. After looking at rim/lacing costs at the local bike shop, I considered finding a new set since I wanted to convert to single-speed at some point anyway. There’s where I came to my point of confusion. I began searching around and realized that most hubs were ~130mm OLD. I had read plenty of cases were people were making these work in frames with dropout widths in the mid-120’s (whether by jamming them in or setting the frame) but this frame measures 114mm.
I guess I’m not totally clear what my options are here. Is there an aftermarket option? Is it best to just buy new bearings and build a set with the old hubs and drop the single-speed idea? I am just not confident enough to move forward without a little input from more experienced people.
Thank you in advance for any help you guys can provide, I appreciate it.
Long story short, I have been looking for a cheaper bike for a while now to cruise around town, but always seemed to miss out on anything that seemed like a decent deal, then one day at work I noticed a bike leaning up against the steel recycling dumpster at work. It was a Centurion Elite RS, so I did a quick search on my lunch break and figured out it looked like a bike worth salvaging. Rad! I figured I would take it home and tune it up and get it going.
That’s where the questions started. If the method of dating these I found is correct, it looks like this should be a 1983 model. I figured I would just pull it apart and repack bearings and give it a whirl. Upon closer inspection, the spokes were quite corroded and some even bent, along with some rim damage. After looking at rim/lacing costs at the local bike shop, I considered finding a new set since I wanted to convert to single-speed at some point anyway. There’s where I came to my point of confusion. I began searching around and realized that most hubs were ~130mm OLD. I had read plenty of cases were people were making these work in frames with dropout widths in the mid-120’s (whether by jamming them in or setting the frame) but this frame measures 114mm.
I guess I’m not totally clear what my options are here. Is there an aftermarket option? Is it best to just buy new bearings and build a set with the old hubs and drop the single-speed idea? I am just not confident enough to move forward without a little input from more experienced people.
Thank you in advance for any help you guys can provide, I appreciate it.
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Hmm, if you could post pics, it would be helpful. Given how you describe the wheel damage, I’m concerned it might have been crashed.
#3
Pedalin' Erry Day
I share noobinsf's concern: if the frame is measuring 114 then the rear triangle might have been bent in a crash. How are you measuring this? If a steel frame has some slight crash damage it can sometimes be fixed, but I wouldn't suggest spending any money on a replacement wheel until you're sure the frame is rideable.
Also, welcome to the forum, are you located in Black Forest?
Also, welcome to the forum, are you located in Black Forest?
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I totally understand your guys’ request for pictures, I actually tried to upload some in the initial post, but it said I couldn’t include them until I have more than 10 posts.
I am measuring with a pair of Starrett calipers so the measurements should be reliable. I didn’t think there was a tweak/bend issue since the rear wheel fit fine and seemed to run (relatively) true. It being so much more narrow than the measurements I was reading about definitely left me a little puzzled, I will have to do some more measuring tomorrow when I get off work.
I was born and raised in Black Forest...Colorado, that is. Currently living in Denver, though.
I am measuring with a pair of Starrett calipers so the measurements should be reliable. I didn’t think there was a tweak/bend issue since the rear wheel fit fine and seemed to run (relatively) true. It being so much more narrow than the measurements I was reading about definitely left me a little puzzled, I will have to do some more measuring tomorrow when I get off work.
I was born and raised in Black Forest...Colorado, that is. Currently living in Denver, though.
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114 rear = measure again, or damaged. No way any wheel should fit without really forcing it.
Head over to Lucky Bikes, the co-op in Denver. They probably can find you some decent used wheels and check that frame for you. Good group of people in there.
And if its really 114, time for a string test. Google string test, really easy to do and will show you whether the frame is damaged. With steel, depending on damage, it can be repaired. I used a "foot wedge" (my foot) to straighten a stay on a steel frame bike. Inspect the stays carefully, are they straight, or do they change direction suddenly (impact point).
Head over to Lucky Bikes, the co-op in Denver. They probably can find you some decent used wheels and check that frame for you. Good group of people in there.
And if its really 114, time for a string test. Google string test, really easy to do and will show you whether the frame is damaged. With steel, depending on damage, it can be repaired. I used a "foot wedge" (my foot) to straighten a stay on a steel frame bike. Inspect the stays carefully, are they straight, or do they change direction suddenly (impact point).
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I had an 84 - nice light bike, measured 124 OLD rear.
Came with 27 x 1 wheels that were a tight fit (so no 27x 1 1/4) and the calipers as I recall didnt have much extra reach, so if you went 700c, you could need calipers as well.
Came with 27 x 1 wheels that were a tight fit (so no 27x 1 1/4) and the calipers as I recall didnt have much extra reach, so if you went 700c, you could need calipers as well.
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Thank you for the continued suggestions, guys. I measured about 20 times because it was blowing my mind (I’m a mechanic by trade, so I’m familiar with taking measurements/using hand tools) and it definitely measures 114. Once I have enough posts to post pictures I will show you guys so you don’t think I’m crazy.
I am going to do some more measuring and double-checking when I get off work today, and am going to try to round up the stuff to do a string test just to see what’s going on.
Again, I appreciate everyone’s help.
I am going to do some more measuring and double-checking when I get off work today, and am going to try to round up the stuff to do a string test just to see what’s going on.
Again, I appreciate everyone’s help.
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Was the wheel that you found it with a single speed? A single speed or fixed gear wheel will measure 120mm. The previous owner may have tried to cold set the drop outs and over tweaked it, then forced it in.
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I just performed the string test and you guys were spot on...the rear triangle appears to be out of alignment by 4.55mm. I don’t see any obvious impact damage (aside from chipped paint) or deformation. I was planning on repainting the frame anyway, so I might strip the paint and inspect the welds more thoroughly before proceeding with any attempt to straighten the frame.
Any further advice? Is there reason to believe it’s beyond salvaging?
Thanks again for your help and patience.
#11
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i'd think it would bend right back without too much drama.
I have an elite RS and the paint is really nicely done- so post some pics before you go repainting! unless its really trashed you might want to reconsider. (go post somewhere 6 more times... its easy enough, just pick some threads and say "nice bike!"
I have an elite RS and the paint is really nicely done- so post some pics before you go repainting! unless its really trashed you might want to reconsider. (go post somewhere 6 more times... its easy enough, just pick some threads and say "nice bike!"
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I just performed the string test and you guys were spot on...the rear triangle appears to be out of alignment by 4.55mm. I don’t see any obvious impact damage (aside from chipped paint) or deformation. I was planning on repainting the frame anyway, so I might strip the paint and inspect the welds more thoroughly before proceeding with any attempt to straighten the frame.
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