tiger1964 

A few parts to de-anodize so for this project not likely to buy a specialized product but did buy a can of Easy-Off, and I can treat my wife's bakeware at the same time. Instructions on the can for ovens, when cold, at 20 minutes... sufficient to remove anodizing from aluminum?

Finally getting back to project, piles of parts and buckets of Simple Green, jars of Evaporust, and this.

The Golden Boy 

Look at YouTube videos.

I’ve used easy off to remove anodizing from 2 chainrings.

The important thing is not letting it sit on too long.

tiger1964 

I'll check YouTube.

I did a 20-minute session on two Stronglight 49D cranks, two Mafac levers, A Pivo stem and no-name handlebars, and a Mavic stem that had a shiny black anodized (?) finish but worn. After 20 minutes they looked nasty and black (except the Mafac levers, perhaps not anodized?) but I rinsed and brushed them and most of the black came off (possibly the removed anodization?). Then into a scrub bath w/Simple Green and then water. At the least it will take two sessions. Same goes for my wife's bakeware

CV-6 

If you can stick the parts in the oven for a bit, it works better. Hopefully you are wearing gloves anyway when you handle them.

tiger1964 

My first thought is I cannot afford that, specifically the divorce settlement. However, hmm, if I offer to clean the oven at the same time...

Yes, and eye protection.

rccardr 

I have had success by using steel wool, even an SOS pad, on the item first, then spraying. Wait ten minutes, scrub off surface with pad, spray again as needed. Most crank arms take two applications, and I do not preheat the item. I also do this work in a stainless steel sink, which looks wonderfully shiny when done.

Drillium Dude 

Not suggesting - this time - to change your current process in mid-process, but to comment and add a suggestion for possible future use.

Bitd when I was using Easy Off it was a messy, unpredictable process. Different parts seemed to take longer than others. I found that to be because expected high-wear areas used a thicker anodizing (think crank arms and brake levers). I never, ever found a reliable amount of time I could leave it on. Too long and it will pit the aluminum; not long enough and not all the anodizing is removed. Plus, it's quite a messy process. Sorta expensive, too, when you get down to it; one can go through a couple cans to properly strip a group. Oh, and did I mention it's messy?

I found a solution that is easy, cost-effective and fast. Ain't a bit of mess, either. Drop it in and when the part turns uniformly black or grey or white (depending on the alloy used), pull it out and wipe down with some fine steel wool. The black/grey/white will buff off and the part will be ready for polishing.

How fast? I completely stripped a non-drive crankarm in 3 minutes a couple of days ago. This is the stuff: Jestco Products Buffing Supply - Anodize remover - 16 oz. (Powered by CubeCart)

I absolutely swear by it because, frankly, it works better than anything I've ever used. It's in granular form, so if you want you can mix to your own strength level. Higher level, less time in the de-anodizing bath. Great stuff, and designed exactly for what you have in mind. Next time

DD

Chombi1 

I should try this......
Last couple of times I went with Easy Off, it did not work that well, requiring me to do it multiple times, and I still needed to apply a lot of sanding and elbow grease to get all the anodizing off the part. Easy Off is like trying to use WD40 on a really badly stuck stem or seatpost, IMO.

kc0yef 

buy a cheap toaster oven and there are so may other used like chain lube...

tiger1964 

I've read here about using 0000 steel wool and I think I have some so I'll incorporate that in the process.

Thanks, I did come across a post of yours about this stuff... AFTER I had bought the Easy-Off. I had read several posts in other topics about Easy-Off, so I had grabbed that. As the forum does not have a FAQ accrued (that would be a lot of work for someone), I made the choice on what I had read in general topics. I'm hoping for good results on this, and not sure there is a "next time"; of the bikes in my collection, this one may the the only bike where I'm willing to de-anodize -- and willing to accept the post-de-anodization maintenance implied.

qcpmsame 

Make certain you get every bit of the Simple Green off anything you apply it to. Especially where two surfaces mate, pitting will occur if it is allowed to remain. Good, thorough rinsing of everything a couple of times, being sure to take everything apart completely and getting into place like the clamp on a stem and any bolt holes or perforations.

FAA issued an AD about using Simple Green, back ~2000. Pitting of wing spars and other aluminum parts was showing up regularly when SG had been used to clean aircraft. Navy BuAir banned its use completely,

Bill

tiger1964 

I bought the Simple Green Pro, which I've read is aluminum-safe. That said, I used it on a lot of aluminum and steel parts, then rinsed them all and dropped into buckets of cold water... then I hurt myself and forgot about bikes for 60 days or so. Alloy came out with some crud redeposited but otherwise OK, but some steel items picked up some flash rust, hence my first purchase of Evaporust. Caused myself needless extra work.