Picked up this '93 from Craigslist a few months back. It sat unsold for a decent price for a few weeks. Not original and clear coat has failed, but it was upgraded with Ultegra/DA parts, newer Ideal saddle and some other nice parts. Lugs look good, but braze on bolts that I guess we're put on for a strap have some corrosion. Rides nice as is but it still needs some love...

Holy S**t.

Unless the price was high, that would have lasted about 30 minutes on my local CL. It's weird, it's titanium and it's my size.

Very cool find.

+ bazillion

The Team Ti is nearly identical, except for the tubing, to the Team Carbon. Good riders once set up.

The corrosion is confusing to me, since it shows the "splash" of non-Ti metal involved. My first take was to suggest masking off the area and sanding it down, seal and clear it, but then I read that the clear coat is peeling. I guess that moves things to: decals. If they are available, I'd give it the full monty, get rid of the clear, polish the lugs, and re-decal, no clear coat. Ti does not need it. Maybe mask and clear the frame addition just to preserve it, or since it's on the underside of the TT, paint it with one of the Ti flat grey paints out there.

That's a great frame worth saving, in my opinion, but first, check the cable stop on the L side of the head tube. They have been known to chip and fail right there, generally from impact on a bike rack.

Again, killer bike, rare as all get out. The Team Carbon here in my area is the same size, not sure if the guy still has it or not.

He had met with a few buyers who kind of beat him up over it not being original. He had bought the frame at a swap and built it up. When looking at the bike at first it looked to have cracks, but it was only failing clear coat. I stayed away from it at first because his original price was $350...it just had to be broken, not. Buying a new seat post to replace the straight post on there, 25.8, and I may be changing the fork to a Reynolds carbon.

This just popped up. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik...574756801.html

One here too!
https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bi...576222880.html

This just popped up on the Boston Craigslist https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bi...576222880.html

Way cool finds. Imagine these would be like a Lamborghini Espada. Rare fast exotic one has to drive like it was designed for (not slow or they blow) but don't know if or when it explodes. Luv it.

Also, take a look at the crazy setback on the link from curbtender. SR mte100 post?! And the frame survives.... proof these bikes can take abuse.

That Boston one is my size. I'm definitely interested in that one. There's a Lynskey here, a bit higher, frame/fork/headset only. Anyone want to facilitate?

Hello, This bike has turned up locally for sale, photos are a bit rough, no decals, advertised as a Sakae Titanium (?). I can just make out Shimano 600 tricolour brakes. I quick look at net would suggest a Miyata Titanium early 90's. The seat binder/seat stay arrangement is different to the one posted here. The headset lugs seem to be very similar. Also a chain stay has separated from dropout. Are these repairable? If so advice would be good. Bike is my size so am quite interested. I am a fan of Miyata and do not have a titanium bike in garage.

Big red flag; dunno how that would be repaired, as I'm not sure how these things were put together. Is it a welded/brazed join like steel to steel or a glued/interference join like steel to aluminum, as on a Raleigh Technium or something? FInd out before you spend any money on the thing.

Looks like someone beat us to it.
And I am driving through Boston Sunday evening.....The Gods mock us.

Top

The different treatment at the seat cluster might just be down to their use of a monostay in the in larger frame sizes, as with quite a few other brand's models.
Looks like the frame's decals, having been stripped off, leave the seller with only the fork's label to identify the bike.

I once rode down the hill 20 miles into Sacramento to see a ""Ritchey cyclocross bike" in my size, only to find a repainted cheap old Raleigh with just a Ritchey handlebar stem!
It was an odd situation, me showing up at the poorly-described meeting spot riding my HD 1200S, so with nearly an hour going by before we found each other. I remember how funny it later seemed (with them not looking for a guy on a Harley, ...and me not looking for two well-dressed gents in a luxury car).

So these two offered to guide me to the bike's garaged location, and with the bike thankfully in a nice neighborhood. While disappointed in the extreme with what I found, and thus not sorry for these guys who wasted all of an hour and a half of their time on a sale attempt, I'm guessing now that they were likely just real estate guys who stumbled on this unidentifiable bike in a just-purchased home, and just wanted to be rid of it for what they hoped it was worth. Anyway, I explained to them what they had and that no, I didn't want to make an offer. I still sort of suspect they were looking for a fool.

There should be a cable guide on the L side of the head tube. I don't see one there.

Cheers guys, think I will leave it alone, especially as asking $350NZ for it. You know the feeling you see something tempting in your size and heart takes over- titanium for goodness sake! There really seems to be no easy way to glue these tubes back easily. It would be good if you could apply heat and they all came out and you then you could re-glue back together. I am way outside my comfort zone. If it was $50 I would take down to my very good engineering shop and say go for it.

Still not sure why that rivnut is there, plus the other one on downtube.

Been picking up parts and finally finished the Miyata. Thought I had another fork, but the headtube is pretty long. Soaked the riv nut with evaporust and it worked well. 7800 components, FSA compact/carbon crank, titanium bb, 25.0 seatpost, DT Swiss takeoffs from a Roubaix. I'll be taking it out for a longer ride tomorrow, but felt special on the test ride.

Those are hard to find bikes. Love the way they ride. Welded ti frames today are much stiffer than these, and may well be lighter, but won't ride as smooth! Great finds.

The boss on the underside of top tube is for a number plate, the one on the underside of down tube is for the old CO2 inflators.

Thanks, makes sense. Just had trouble visualizing the need to put more holes in the frame.

Robbie Tunes: I know this is an old thread but Im doing some research on de-clearing this Miyata Ti frame. How would you
go about removing the old clear without damaging the Titanium? Thx


Robbie Tunes: I know this is an old thread but Im doing some research on de-clearing this Miyata Ti frame. How would you
go about removing the old clear without damaging the Titanium? Thx

Unfortunately, Robbie is no longer with us on these forums. However, there are those who still are in contact with the godfather, that may be able to pass a message onto him.