Stronglight headset advice needed
05-01-18 | 10:23 AM
#1
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Stronglight headset advice needed
Hs
I have an old Stronglight roller bearing headset on my primary bike. It has worked so well for the last 20+ years. But now, I can no longer seem to adjust it like The old days. Now I have to pick between a little stiffness as I turn the bars or a shudder when I brake. Did it finally wear out? Are parts still to be had? Is there a trick I have forgotten?
I think its a model X14, the one with an allen lock rather than a standard lock nut, but can't confirm. Photo is below.
Any suggestions on keeping this HS going?
05-01-18 | 01:17 PM
#2
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...take it apart, lean up the bearings and the races they roll on (stamped steel cones, IIRC) and post up some photos.
If I had to guess, either your grease in there is pretty stiff, or there's some false brinelling or other distortion to the bearing race plates.
I've never seen one of these where the bearings wore out.
The threading on the top cap and lock are in aluminum, so that's another place to check for wear or stripping.
If I had to guess, either your grease in there is pretty stiff, or there's some false brinelling or other distortion to the bearing race plates.
I've never seen one of these where the bearings wore out.
The threading on the top cap and lock are in aluminum, so that's another place to check for wear or stripping.
05-01-18 | 01:55 PM
#3
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From: Peoria, IL
Do we get more hints?
Has it been overhauled in the 20 years that you've had it?
Did it start doing this after a recent overhaul?
Can you share photos of the bearings, the steel conical races, etc.?
Steve in Peoria
Has it been overhauled in the 20 years that you've had it?
Did it start doing this after a recent overhaul?
Can you share photos of the bearings, the steel conical races, etc.?
Steve in Peoria
05-01-18 | 04:18 PM
#4
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No, it has never been overhauled. It has been working fine so I have ignored it as I usually do with headsets. Just noticed the issue when I pulled the bike down as it about time that I can usually ride a bike without fenders.
I will try new grease first. If that doesn't work, then I will go for photos. Sorry to not post them, but as the HS is not yet apart, and posting photos is a struggle for me. The photo that is in the post took about 20 minutes and multiple reloads before my computer stopped eating the message.
I will try new grease first. If that doesn't work, then I will go for photos. Sorry to not post them, but as the HS is not yet apart, and posting photos is a struggle for me. The photo that is in the post took about 20 minutes and multiple reloads before my computer stopped eating the message.
05-02-18 | 11:35 AM
#5
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Just open a smaller window using the "browse" option, select the photo files location and open it, then drag the file over.
05-02-18 | 02:05 PM
#6
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
In lieu of judging headset adjustment while braking, lift the front wheel off the ground (by lifting at the stem) and use your fist to hit the top of the tire, like a hammer.
A heavy knock-rattle indicates looseness in the headset.
I say this because braking judder sounds like something that is possibly caused by something other than the headset adjustment.
It would be good practice to clean the old headset out at this time and inspect the surfaces. I've encountered a few very similar headsets in completely worn-out condition.
A heavy knock-rattle indicates looseness in the headset.
I say this because braking judder sounds like something that is possibly caused by something other than the headset adjustment.
It would be good practice to clean the old headset out at this time and inspect the surfaces. I've encountered a few very similar headsets in completely worn-out condition.
05-02-18 | 02:16 PM
#7
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Its only different in that rather than adjustable race and lock nut the pinch bolt squeezes the fork steerer, for a friction grip.
other than that, the internals are same as the A9; 2 conic steel bearing races
and a plastic retainer for the roller bearings.
..
other than that, the internals are same as the A9; 2 conic steel bearing races
and a plastic retainer for the roller bearings.
..
