They simply hold the spacers in place and dont let them jingle. Since the headset doesnt require preload with a star nut that would typically remove slack from where the spacers are, there is a tiny bit of slack in the spacer stack with the innicycle. Having the rubber ring keeps the spacers in place and eliminates the jingling that can come from regular spacers.
I have a mix of regular spacers and innicycle spacers to get the height right. The o rings work great to keep the spacers in place, even when mixed in with regular spacers. I agree- they are the debil to remove(and add, at least for one of them).

Is the Innicycle available anymore?

Yes, and it’s worth every penny, Tom.

Sorry for the back-and-forth. Where can one buy it?

I gave up the first time, and removed the O-rings.
Then I just hitched up my drawers and pushed hard.
They go on once you get them started.
Removing them is tedious.

And they look "marvelous."
(Yes, I lined up all the logos on mine.)

While I'm sure glad to hear that it was in fact not the stem moving on the steerer tube, I am still a bit concerned that your headsets are installed properly. After setting the preload, that adjustment is locked out using the hex recess in the top cap. Tightening the top cap expands the quill going down into the steerer tube, which both locks the steerer tube to the fork (highly important!) and prevents the headset bearing preload adjustment from changing. Are you tightening the top cap enough?

:beer:

Hmmm, I'm getting the sense that I went overboard with the o-ring interference....

A few tips to ease installation:

1. Water-based lube (soapy water works)
2. Push AND turn/twist at the same time
3. If you've cut your steerer tube, deburr the heck out of the cut edge before trying to install a spacer, or add the top cap first

1 & 2 are critical and I've goofed by not addressing that more formally in any of the videos.

Please dont take my response as indication that I dislike the spacers. I think they are a fantastic bit of engineering. I always wondered why typical threadless conversion stems werent dead flat at the bottom to allow spacers to be used for look, and spacers with a rubber ring like yours would have been perfect for that application too since it removes the jingling.

I think the headset is awesome. Funny enough, its my most expensive headset, but its on the bike attached to my trainer right now. That bike does get the most 'miles' right now though, so i guess it could be said the headset is on the bike I use the most!
Next spring Ill most likely cut it down a bit since i positioned it at near the top of the full extension and havent gotten around to cutting. Gonna have to reference the video for that since I assume its more involved than just cutting a normal steerer.

Too much rambling- the spacers are excellent at doing what they should do- look the part and not rattle.

I should have multi-quoted! When I hear a complaint mentioned by a few different people (three in just the last few posts on this thread, plus the mechanic at my local shop) I start to consider that I need to do something different. All part of the process of product development so trust me when I say I appreciate the feedback. As long as these keep selling I'll have the opportunity to make some more tweaks for the next round of production and address this issue in particular.

It really isn't that different than cutting a typical steerer, other than the need for more accuracy. Whereas the goal of cutting a traditional threadless steerer is simply to have it end somewhere below the top of your stem (or upper spacer), with an innicycle steerer you want it to end 2-2.5mm below the top of your stem. That way when you add the top cap the cap will be flush with the top of the stem. You also just let the top cap protrude and cut the steerer right at the top of the stem. It's functional either way so how you cut it comes down to an aesthetic choice and if you feel like you may want to swap between stems with different clamp heights. To the latter point, the top cap thickness neatly makes up the difference in clamp heights between the two most common options (40 and 42mm). I went for the flush look on my Trek:

https://live.staticflickr.com/960/41...63b54744_z.jpg

PM me or email at joe@jjpne.com

FYI, I am checking into why my YouTube installation video links have been removed. Perhaps there's a good reason for it so I won't be re-posting them until I hear back. Until then, searching 'innicycle' on YouTube will pull up the videos.

My normal spacers don’t jingle

Are they on a threadless headset or atrached to a threadless conversion stem?

Threadless conversation

I recently purchased 2 of the conversion headsets. So far, one is installed, the other reserved for an upcoming project.

After a brief few minutes with a thread file on the steerer, I was able to set the bearing preload by hand. The easiest job I have ever had the pleasure of doing. Turn, turn, turn, stop...zero play, done!

Regarding the unexpected twisting: It's the top cap not being held tight enough by the quill/the quill not interfacing tight enough to fight any twisting action between wheel & handlebars. The solution as far as I can tell is to consider the recommended maximum 15nm top cap (quill bolt) torque as a a minimum torque, not a maximum.

For my own internal thought process: 12-15nm is the recommended range the left crank arm bolt torque on Shimano external bearing cranksets, so considering the quill bolt is a much larger size, I felt it was permissable to risk not more than 20nm...Not that I would recommend any more. The quill locked in convincingly tight at that torque & required a good blow with a hammer to break the friction as any quill stem properly set should.

My thoughts are the very viscous Finish Line white lithium grease I was using on any & all components may have been viscous enough to require a second or third torque at 15nm to be effectively squeezed out of the interface so that good metal to metal contact between quill & steerer could be obtained. Experiments with a thinner grease, or more conservative application of grease, &/or retorque requirements would likely provide illumination in this regard.

As I have previously dealt with improperly worked wedge-style eccentrics, I do have concerns with the threads of the quill wedge sustaining a solid whack with a hammer for future adjustments, bearing replacements, or other work. I can see the possibility in an aluminum wedge of inadvertantly blowing the threads out of a long set &/or galvanicly corroded or over torqued wedge greatly complicating future service. A steel quill wedge would at the very least eliminate any potential for future issues & buy error margin for top-cap/quill bolt torque among any shade-tree mechanics that may happen across this wonderful invention. Of course, disregard if I am mistaken. I installed mine several weeks ago & am going by memory.

Perhaps a service bullitin recommending removing quill bolt & top cap, then dislodging the wedge by way of inserting a long flat bottomed drift punch down inside from the top side of the headset to dislodge the wedge nut before servicing bearings or preload readjustment could be recommended? This would ensure the wedge bolt/nut threads never encounter impact from the necessary freeing hammer blow other quill stems encounter many times over their lives.

Anyways, them's my thoughts & I definitely would buy again. Good product.

As of 2-8-2021, out of stock @ Amazon. Any idea when you will be back for business.

I failed to meet my quota of posts, so I had to reply rather than send a PM.

I did scroll the whole thread and found nothing, unless I went too fast.....

Who have I been chatting with on ****** about the headset?

For a little while longer, just email me at joe@jjpne.com and I'll get you set up.

The e-commerce site is nearing completion. I can almost say that with a straight face, given how long it has taken (laughably long).

If anyone is looking for a headset and lives in the furthest corner of the world from where I'm sitting (i.e. Australia, SE Asia), check out www.forkmods.com, one of my resellers.

[QUOTE=joejack951;21917232]For a little while longer, just email me at joe@jjpne.com and I'll get you set up.

The e-commerce site is nearing completion. I can almost say that with a straight face, given how long it has taken (laughably long).
/QUOTE]

All good! I had failed to see this thread was 10 pages long, otherwise I would have seen requests for purchase & instruction from December.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d8bb58ea8a.jpg
the headset held up to my endurance test :)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bd10f0aa57.jpg

Bump time.

Moved the headset and full build over to a frame that was just powdercoated.
The wedge bolt can be a little devil to loosen! Install and use are clean and smooth as expected.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...17e2bdae53.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...00fa160fde.jpg

After a little over a year since receiving my headset, I have finally installed it and built up my Proctor.

Install was as easy as it gets. Very happy with everything.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f4a49b84d5.jpg

Just received my silver one. Sweet piece of hardware.

From the recent RH thread,

It would be sweet if there was a way to use the threadless version on the Innicycle.

I agree I’ve got this headset on another bike and I’m pondering some modding this winter

That is exactly the stem (velo orange cigne, right?) that I bought the innicycle for. I just need to get the last coat paint to dry/cure, apply logos and build up. Only like a year or 2 after I bought the innicycle, but better late than never.