Seems you’d have to have a fair amount of spacers on top of your stem for it to fit. Not to mention the cabling issue.

Interesting product (the TMAT switch). I think something can definitely be made to work but the standard threadless version won't be it. What I see as the best possibility for integrating a switch is to have a portion of the innicycle steerer tube extending above the stem and using a magnetic switch (like the prototype quill version) in that location. The wedge will need to be drilled to pass wiring through and care will need to be taken to not interfere with the top cap as it protrudes into the steerer quite a bit (reference the cross section image I posted way back in this thread).

While this isn't necessarily something I want to get into myself, I'm happy to consult and provide spare parts for modification as necessary to whoever decides to take this project on.

I'm trying to install the Innicyle on my 2000 LeMond Zurich. When I thread on the threadless adapter to the fork, it seems to bottom out before I can properly set the preload so there is still a little play in the fork. It's close, but needs maybe a couple more millimeters to tighten. suggestions?

Solved. Found the specs for the length and mine was about 2mm too long. I took my fork to the bike shop and they quickly trimmed a little bit off. It now fits nicely!

Another very pleased Innicycle owner! It is a very well thought out design and the perfect component for my Neo Retro Velo build.






Everything worked out fine but there is one thing i'm struggling with. Is it normal that I can move the steerer if I turn the handlebars with the wheel between my legs with a good amount of force?

I had a similar issue back in post #240
Instead of 15nm, I torqued it to 15ft-lb & that solved the issue. I really think the newton meter comment was a typo or a simple mis-speak. A newton meter is about 75% of a foot pound so it's not like it's being eggrigiously over torqued considering it's barely being torqued enough to do the job at all to begin with.

I still like the idea of a steel wedge nut discussed of the prototypes instead of the aluminum one supplied in the final product. There may be something there with regards to the proper torque & internal friction in the design process. But, who am I to say? I have a steel wedge nut of the proper dimensions...maybe I should actually test & see if there is a difference instead of floating questions & theories.

BTW: Your bike looks pretty awesome.

For anyone having an issue getting the quill tight enough to not turn inside of the steerer, I'd suggest one or all of the following (in addition to greasing the threads and wedge):

1. more torque, as noted already. 15 ft*lbs (20 N*m) is fine given the size of the hardware.
2. grease under the top cap where it meets the steerer tube. This interface can generate a lot of friction especially if the steerer tube has been cut and the anodizing is removed.
3. friction paste on the quill portion. The ID of some steerer tubes may be a little more than others requiring more deflection of the quill to get a good 'bite'. The grit in the friction paste will reduce the amount of deflection required while giving more potential grip and helping prevent corrosion.

I do appreciate the feedback and will see if there's something that can be done on future units to improve this function.

Is there a possibility that there will be a 1 1/8 inch version in the future? Would be very nice upgrade for retro mountain bikes with rigid forks.

It is a possibility. The one caveat is that it will require a 1 1/4” stem (similar to the current innicycle in that ‘steps up’ the steerer tube diameter). I have some other higher priority versions I want to tackle first (French for one) but then will strongly consider it. The main reason I didn’t do it from the onset is (aside from the unknown market) that it requires a complete set of new parts. Nothing can carryover from the 1” innicycle. A bit of a pain but you know what they say about that

I actually have an old GT MTB with a 1 1/8” threaded headset sitting in the garage for just this reason. Perhaps if groupsets weren’t so hard to get these days I’d have already turned it into a restomod-gravel bike.

Hi There,
I was wondering if there was such a conversion kit available to convert a traditional 1 inch threaded headset to a " hidden style" headset
Would love to make the head tube much neater if possible!

any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated


90's vintage 1 inch threaded headset - conversion needed to hidden style headset

When you say 'hidden style', do you mean an integrated/internal headset?...or do you mean something different?

Long time with no updates! I mentioned it in my last post and like many things, it took a lot longer to come about than anticipated but it is finally ready for 'mass' consumption. Of course, there's a special French-threaded upper race to go along with the French-sized crown race and quill, complete with M25x1mm threads. Available in limited quantities of both black and silver. There's also an early Schwinn (21.15mm quill) and BMX (32.6mm cups and 21.15mm quill) version available now as well. Time to get to work on that 1 1/8" innicycle next!

Relatively speaking, this is a low-production niche item.
The way the headset uses the head tube may be hard to overcome in a "hidden" style.
I can see a lip replacing the cups top and bottom, but then there may be issues with bearing size, bearing races, and differing bikes.
The Innicycle is pretty much for 1" threaded forks. No doubt it can be done, but the machine setup, etc may not be economically feasible.
Still, would be cool to build a bike with one like that, with the stem or spacers appearing to sit right on top of the head tube. Funky.

I'm figuring a 1986 Kestrel would be a good candidate.

The pic above is a perfect illustration as to why you can't simply 'hide' a headset on a frame designed for a standard, external headset. If you look closely at the headtubes for both the integrated and internal options, you'll see the slight flare where the headset bearings are located. Without this enlarged diameter of the headtube, there would simply be no available space for a proper bearing. You can do the math if that helps make it even more clear: 25.4mm diameter fork in a 30.2mm inner diameter headtube leaves 2.4mm of space between the two parts. The cartridge bearings for an innicycle are 5mm in diameter, and that's before you include the space for the inner and outer race. Maybe you could squeeze 1mm diameter bearing balls between the fork and headtube to hide the headset? Maybe it would last a ride or two?

The cycling industry has done some funny things along those lines with bottom brackets in particular. If anyone remembers the ISIS 'standard' it is a great example of pushing things too far with regards to minimum bearing sizes in an attempt to increase the crank spindle diameter. There are other more recent examples with attempts to convert from some poorly chosen integrated bottom brackets back to a threaded setup but (Trek BB92 I believe). Anyway, it's not a path I'm interested in pursuing for those and other reasons.

Are these still for sale somewhere? I can't find anything.

Have you tried https://www.innicycle.com/?

https://www.innicycle.com/store.html

These look interesting but there is no vertical adjustment. What about the millions of classic bike lovers that don't want to be hunched over like Moser going for an hour record?

There's 2 inches to play with

The ability to set the stem lower than with a conventional threadless adapter is a plus for some, but irrelevant for others

Here’s another before and after but with an untrimmed headset (50mm of spacers under the stem): Threadless Conversion Headset

Note that you can also use any one of the number of high rise stems in the market, including the VO Cigne if higher handlebars are a priority.

Just trimmed this up - didn’t get fully flush, but no biggie. Probably could have marked at 2mm instead of 2.5. Love it!