Headset is shot







3ttt Scott triathlon handlebars
I picked this up today and want to know if you all think it can be saved, or should I just strip the parts. I'm not sure of the model either, but possibly Nuova Racing?

Campy NR front and rear derailleurs, 83 date on the rear.
Gipiemme dropouts
Campy shift levers
Bianchi labeled crankset with Strada on the back of the arm.
Modolo Flash brakes, levers and hoods
Wolber Super Champion Gentleman 81 wheel (no front wheel)
Ofmega hubs
Ofmega pedals
Selle San Marco (according to what I've read on the internet) seatpost
Avocet Touring saddle
Here's some pics

Yeah I'm skeptical about the frame too

I personally wouldn't ride it - the severity of rust around the joins is far more than my comfort level. I suspect at least one of the joints is compromised if not multiple. You could try sandblast and oxalic acid bath but only if you intended to keep it.

That said ... I know the little bits (like the nuts on the brakes) are very salvageable. Go to Amazon and get a small container of Evap-o-Rust. Get a small mason jar and fill it an inch. With a wire brush, brush off the brunt of the loose rust - no need to go overboard. Then toss the parts in the mason jar. Leave them fro 24 hours, take them out and rinse well with water, brush and dry. You'll be shocked at the results. Reassemble and enjoy.

Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish will take the tarnish off the aluminum parts and get them gleaming with very little effort.

EDIT: You'll be shocked what Evap-o-Rust will do to resurrect that headset too ...

I agree with what everyone has said so far. I think the rust is too much on those joints. I'll have a lot of nice parts though. I've used Evaporust, and Mothers with great success on various items. I'll start with these parts tomorrow.

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We should hear from framebuilders such as [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] as to whether they think there is enough "meat" left in frame to warrant working with.

I have nearly the same bicycle. It is a 1982-83 model 980 that has the identical frame and just slightly different kitting. Has a 980 gear ensemble instead of NR and 605 arrestor set instead of Flash but otherwise appears the same machine.

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This came up on a Wacky World post the last couple days, didn't it?

I read it in the ebay items thread. I live 45 miles away so I jumped on it for the parts.

I'm going to strip everything off the frame, then do some sanding and poking around in those bad spots to see how bad they are.

+1 with everyobe else. I wouldnt tide that frame an inch.

I say clean it and if you have space on a wall put it up as wall art.

I'm with @n0+4c|u3.

If you really want to know, find the worst spot, strip the rust, see what's left. The bottom of that BB looks bad, but they're pretty damn thick. The area around one of the lugs looks pretty damn bad, and starts out thinner.

You might be surprised and find that it's ok.

Or not.

A couple of those joints look like they would snap if you sneezed on them. Do a Nancy Reagan - just say no.

Looks like maybe a submarine bike... Spent some time submerged. Belonged to a triathlete who came in last?

Did the eBay seller list it as 'in good condition"? snark, snark....

As every one above has said, the frame looks like a refugee from the crusher. The fork blades and rear stays may be burnt toast.

Bianchi, Bianchi, come out, come out wherever are you... (Robert DiNero Cape Fear).



verktyg snark, snark...

The seller advertised it very well, mostly as a parts bike. Once I picked it up and saw it, I was just wondering if it could be saved. I think everyone is correct, I'll know more later today.

Reminds me of Tulsa's "Miss Belvedere."

I have a frame in that condition on my winter trainer.

The subject bicycle is/was a 1984 Bianchi Nuovo Racing, depending on your view of condition.

I've removed everything from the frame except for the most important parts like the handlebars, crankset and shifters, all because they won't budge. I can't turn the stem bolt or the crank caps to get at those bolts, and I can't loosen the pedals either. I've penetrating oil on all of it so I'll try again later.

I think the frame will be ok. I poked and scraped at the rust and it all came right off. I find no holes or thin spots, and I poked pretty hard on the suspect spots. I'll know more when I get the rest of the parts off but so far so good.

I wouldn't feel bad cutting the frame if you really want that stuck seatpost or whatever.

PB Blaster is your friend. I am always amazed at what that stuff loosens up, especially if you can let it work for a day or two.

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Looking at the locations of the rust areas caused me to wonder to what extent they may be due to outdoor storage and how much may be due to trainer/roller use. Usually with trainer/roller use the top tube takes it da woystest. Can see where the shell and lower head/fork crown area may be due to road salt but that does not explain the seat cluster...

​​​​​​​Look forward to your next exlporatory reportage 76SLT.


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The caps covering the arm bolts should be impacted around their periphery with a wood dowel, using a 2# hammer. That will break the threads free, so then easily spun out.

I bought a 24" wheel Hamilton triathlon frame (24" wheels were a thing in the 80's) that appeared to have been submerged for some time, probably in a basement that flooded. The rust is bad inside and out.

How thin that the tubing is butted might be a factor, but the lugs are comparatively thick.

It would be interesting to see what a rust dissolving compound would do.

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On this frame it might be termed "Queen Anne's Lace Making Compound."

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+10 ​​​​​​​

Cmon guys - speaking to those of you who fancifully encourage others to get involved in resurrection projects....

No matter how much money and effort that you throw into a frame like this, you're still gonna have a 49 Studebaker!



Yes, you can make a silk purse from a sows ear but is it worth it?

There was a suggestion that the bike may have been used as a stationary. Anyone or thing with perspiration that acidic is the topic of a sci-fi movie!



The bike has all the markings of having spent quite a bit of time submerged under water... more likely fresh than salt water. Look at the remnants of moss or algae on the front brake wheel guides, the adjustable BB lock ring, the residual mud on the stem and bars...

The anodized surfaces of the aluminum components will resist oxidation but you'll get galvanic corrosion where the aluminum contacts steel. = stuck stems, seatposts steel bolts and fasteners.

The problem with a frame like this the corrosion may not appear severe on the larger sections of tubing but once you remove the paint you're likely to find pin holes in the thinner walled fork blades or rear stays.

A frame builder friend has 3-4 beautiful classic frames hanging in his shop that were sent to him for repainting. They all have pinhole rust requiring tube replacement. The cost to replace a rear triangle or fork can far exceed the value of the frame and then there's the possibility of hidden damage in the other tubes.



The OP [MENTION=463764]76SLT[/MENTION] had the best idea when he bought the bike.... parts donor!

I grew up in the rust belt and worked in a steel mill for a while. Salt was used on the streets and roads for 4-5 months a year to melt the ice. New cars started rusting out in 3 years. When Honda first started importing cars to the US, after 2 years the paint still looked good but you could push your thumb through any body panel where it joined the uni-body!!! All yinz guys an jagoffs know what um talkinabout!

Ashes to ashes, rust to dust!

verktyg