C&V Clunker Challenge 100 #4
#126
...addicted...
Hey! I replaced the original reflectors with NOS Cat-Eye reflectors (to get them out of the cabinet!), and that baseball bell was my style-points attempt. I did remove the horribly yellowed wheel reflectors.
Alas, sold it to someone else already (for the contest limit of $100), to do the Tweed Ride on... so it's out of the running for this contest. I only did 8.8 miles. I may pick up a Houdaille PowerCam in need of light re-conditioning to do the challenge on instead. The other projects aren't close enough to the horizon.
Alas, sold it to someone else already (for the contest limit of $100), to do the Tweed Ride on... so it's out of the running for this contest. I only did 8.8 miles. I may pick up a Houdaille PowerCam in need of light re-conditioning to do the challenge on instead. The other projects aren't close enough to the horizon.
#127
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I'd like to call this finished now.
It's still a clunker as it makes a clunking noise at times when in motion. Sometimes it's more of a clinking noise. It comes from the front wheel but I am not sure exactly where. The wheels were out of true and this was my first attempt at truing wheels, so it's probably related to that.
There's no front derailleur because the clamp on cable stop only has the right hand stop.
The brake bridge has this tube running through it, and I don't know if it's original or a modification made by the previous owner.
It's still a clunker as it makes a clunking noise at times when in motion. Sometimes it's more of a clinking noise. It comes from the front wheel but I am not sure exactly where. The wheels were out of true and this was my first attempt at truing wheels, so it's probably related to that.
There's no front derailleur because the clamp on cable stop only has the right hand stop.
The brake bridge has this tube running through it, and I don't know if it's original or a modification made by the previous owner.
Maybe the rear brake bridge was modified to accept a recessed brake mount?
#128
Still learning
I could enter this June 2018 acquired IM, which @Danbianchi881 obtained on my behalf, but @RobbieTunes would probably be livid as I would be devaluing all the goodwill he has created about the Centurion Ironman. Also, I believe the rules are arbitrary and capricious enough, that the fix would be in and I couldn't win.
#129
Peugeot PSV10 or somethin
After days of playing phone tag with one of the property managers for one of our local colleges, I was given a tour of their junkyard. Amidst the weathered Huffys and Magnas there was this blue mystery Trek lying in the weeds. It was weathered, scuffed and rusty, with a bottle cage cruelly zip-tied to the seat tube, but it was also my size, and ever since this thread launched, I've wanted to use it as a flimsy excuse to pick up an additional bicycle. I surrendered a 5 dollar bill and I loaded the Trek into my car.
Once I got it home I looked up the serial number here: Vintage Trek Bicycle Frame Serial Numbers, bike and found out it was a 22.5" framed 1980-81 Trek 412 or 414 (my guess is 1981 Trek 412). I did some more inspecting and found the badly peeling dealer sticker was from Bike Country Center in Armonk, NY- quite a distance from where it ended up in Minnesota. I thought the pedals were interesting: Shimano FullFit PD-A100. They're weighted at the bottom so the platforms always face up. The only references to them I could find online were on a Japanese auction listing and a Thai mtb site. The rack is a Blackburn that would look nicer without its faded-to-matte-black paint.
I did some surface level cleaning and light maintenance yesterday. Luckily for me, the stem was only mildly stuck, and getting the rusty seatpost binder bolt to loosen was tougher than getting the actual post to move. The Imron paint is rough, which is a shame since it's such a pretty metallic blue. I thought Goof Off would get the decal residue on the down tube to wipe right off, but there's a stubborn film of it I'll have to scrape.
Next will be to figure out if I can use the rear wheel or if I'll have to source another. Then buy tires and a chain.
Please excuse the grainy pics from my garbage phone. As purchased:
It's no $20 Cannondale with full Campy, but it'll do.
The nettle hanging off the RD cable was free!
Once I got it home I looked up the serial number here: Vintage Trek Bicycle Frame Serial Numbers, bike and found out it was a 22.5" framed 1980-81 Trek 412 or 414 (my guess is 1981 Trek 412). I did some more inspecting and found the badly peeling dealer sticker was from Bike Country Center in Armonk, NY- quite a distance from where it ended up in Minnesota. I thought the pedals were interesting: Shimano FullFit PD-A100. They're weighted at the bottom so the platforms always face up. The only references to them I could find online were on a Japanese auction listing and a Thai mtb site. The rack is a Blackburn that would look nicer without its faded-to-matte-black paint.
I did some surface level cleaning and light maintenance yesterday. Luckily for me, the stem was only mildly stuck, and getting the rusty seatpost binder bolt to loosen was tougher than getting the actual post to move. The Imron paint is rough, which is a shame since it's such a pretty metallic blue. I thought Goof Off would get the decal residue on the down tube to wipe right off, but there's a stubborn film of it I'll have to scrape.
Next will be to figure out if I can use the rear wheel or if I'll have to source another. Then buy tires and a chain.
Please excuse the grainy pics from my garbage phone. As purchased:
It's no $20 Cannondale with full Campy, but it'll do.
The nettle hanging off the RD cable was free!
#130
Still learning
"I did some more inspecting and found the badly peeling dealer sticker was from Bike Country Center in Armonk, NY- quite a distance from where it ended up in Minnesota."
Apparently, if you are within commuting distance of Rochester, the Trek was an IBM engineer/manager's possession at one time. Great $5 find.
Apparently, if you are within commuting distance of Rochester, the Trek was an IBM engineer/manager's possession at one time. Great $5 find.
#131
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Got the original $5 computer functioning again, not sure what I did but it works again.Sorely needs new cables but these will have to do until the challenge is over, I'll try lubing these in the meantime.
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Last edited by Murray Missile; 07-16-18 at 07:21 PM.
#132
Peugeot PSV10 or somethin
I'm honored for the mention...
That was my first spare from 1974. I just started ridding sewups and it was sort of a Mean Joe Green Coke Commercial moment. An "old" hot shot racer was walking away after a race and he threw it at me and said "Here kid patch this and you'll have a spare" or something like that.
I was 30 and at least 5 years older than him but I was a starving student at the time! I used it for a year or so and kept patching side wall nicks. It's a Clement 50 and STILL holds air!
Mean Joe Green Commercial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xffOCZYX6F8
You could use a strip of Tyvek plastic from a USPS mailing envelope instead of fabric. Thin flexible and super tough. Use contact cement... Oh but that's $3+ dollars!
I carry several strips in my under seat tool bags in case I ever have to boot a clincher. Works better than a dollar bill!
I also use Tyvek to boot side wall nicks except on the inside of the clincher casing. I glue them in with some contact cement.
verktyg
That was my first spare from 1974. I just started ridding sewups and it was sort of a Mean Joe Green Coke Commercial moment. An "old" hot shot racer was walking away after a race and he threw it at me and said "Here kid patch this and you'll have a spare" or something like that.
I was 30 and at least 5 years older than him but I was a starving student at the time! I used it for a year or so and kept patching side wall nicks. It's a Clement 50 and STILL holds air!
Mean Joe Green Commercial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xffOCZYX6F8
You could use a strip of Tyvek plastic from a USPS mailing envelope instead of fabric. Thin flexible and super tough. Use contact cement... Oh but that's $3+ dollars!
I carry several strips in my under seat tool bags in case I ever have to boot a clincher. Works better than a dollar bill!
I also use Tyvek to boot side wall nicks except on the inside of the clincher casing. I glue them in with some contact cement.
verktyg
#133
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Northfield's about an hour away from Rochester so that makes sense. Cool to know. I assume their corporate HQ moved during the 80's?
#134
Still learning
I believe Rochester Minnesota claim to fame included manufacturing punch card machines, the original IBM PCs, and System 36.
https://www-03.ibm.com/ibm/history/e...hronology.html
#135
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Well, of my two previous possible entries, I ended up selling one (for $100, of course) and giving the other away. However, today I picked up this '86 Schwinn Passage:
IMG_2520
This one made its way from Milwaukee to Cambridge, MA:
IMG_2519
I'll need to add brakes, derailleurs, saddle, and wheels, all of which I have around or can acquire locally and cheaply, but it'll still be a challenge to get it under $100. Still, I think this one will be a better rider than my previous options.
IMG_2520
This one made its way from Milwaukee to Cambridge, MA:
IMG_2519
I'll need to add brakes, derailleurs, saddle, and wheels, all of which I have around or can acquire locally and cheaply, but it'll still be a challenge to get it under $100. Still, I think this one will be a better rider than my previous options.
#137
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Kids were visiting, so lots of good eats and conversation but I only managed a few errands plus a ride around Stayton giving me another 23 km for the week. Only adjustment on the Gitane was removal of the kickstand, which I could never remember to use anyway. Without it, my Gypsy Lady weighs a mere 30 pounds. Took this just after sunset & was losing the light. Don
#138
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Kids were visiting, so lots of good eats and conversation but I only managed a few errands plus a ride around Stayton giving me another 23 km for the week. Only adjustment on the Gitane was removal of the kickstand, which I could never remember to use anyway. Without it, my Gypsy Lady weighs a mere 30 pounds. Took this just after sunset & was losing the light. Don
#139
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I didn't think that tube through the bridge was large enough to take a recessed nut but I didn't actually try it as I had no recessed brakes or nuts. I did have to drill out the washers to get it to fit over the tube though.
#140
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Well, of my two previous possible entries, I ended up selling one (for $100, of course) and giving the other away. However, today I picked up this '86 Schwinn Passage:
IMG_2520
This one made its way from Milwaukee to Cambridge, MA:
IMG_2519
I'll need to add brakes, derailleurs, saddle, and wheels, all of which I have around or can acquire locally and cheaply, but it'll still be a challenge to get it under $100. Still, I think this one will be a better rider than my previous options.
IMG_2520
This one made its way from Milwaukee to Cambridge, MA:
IMG_2519
I'll need to add brakes, derailleurs, saddle, and wheels, all of which I have around or can acquire locally and cheaply, but it'll still be a challenge to get it under $100. Still, I think this one will be a better rider than my previous options.
#141
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#143
Senior Member
got the 1988 Letour torn down and the frame cleaned up . with the some components. its mostly all good. so now its clean up components and get it rebuilt.
frame and fork cleaned up
got the Deraileurs and Brake levers cleaned up.
frame and fork cleaned up
got the Deraileurs and Brake levers cleaned up.
#144
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Trout Lake yesterday - This area used to be the site of a sawmill in Vancouver. It's a park and has a community centre now.
#145
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#146
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Well, I'm a little over a tenth of the way there, 6.75 miles. It rides so much easier then Big Bird!!!! I put it up on the big ring early in the ride and left it there. Only used the big ring on the Bird going downhill or with a good tailwind LOL. I have to keep my eyes peeled for some budget friendly tires though, these hold air but that's all I can say for them, they are less than confidence inspiring. If I borrowed the less weather checked and slightly softer Panaracers off my Fuji Espree I bought 4 years ago what would be a fair value to claim? They have big cracks around the outer edge of the gumwalls but not in the tread, at least not the last time I looked.
__________________
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
#147
Virgo
I picked up this ‘73 Fuji Special Road Racer on the 3rd for $50. I am commuting on it and have put approx 150 miles on it so far (240k?). The original steel wheels are pretty rusty so I am using my other set of 27” alloys off of my mid 80’s Raleigh Marathon, and the saddle I’ve been using for a couple years. If it’s OK to invoke fair market value, I’d pay $40 for a decent set of 27” wheels and $10 for a used plastic saddle, for $100 on the nose. I’m using the tires that were on the bike.
#148
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This Takara came up on CL last night.
After reading this description I thought I’d be hard pressed to find a better clunker. Without any questions, I immediately made arrangements with the seller, and picked it up today.
So here’s my entry to the clunker challenge. The 1.93km ride home was both fun, and a little sketchy! But with a remaining budget of $75, and many miles ahead, this is going to be one fun challenge!
Last edited by deux jambes; 07-18-18 at 08:07 PM.
#150
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Man, I really want to ride one of those, in the range of the bike boom years, just to see how it rides. I imagine that it's got the best ride quality of an entry level, bike boomyer aged, Japan made bicycle out there. Probably not as sweet as a comparable French bicycle (like a Pug u0-8 or Gitane Tour-de-French or Motobecane), but maybe close? I've road Schwinns, Takara, C.Itoh, and Miyata entry level fare from the bike boom years (all Japan stuff btw) and really haven't felt that they compared to the French stuff or even Raleighs. But who knows, the Fuji S10S model might change my mind. How's it feel, under your legs?