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Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20448825)
A few questions, please: I noticed on the World Sport the sticker that says 4130 Cromoly “Maintube”. So only the maintube is 4130? Are they referring to the toptube, front downtube or seat post tube? And why just one tube? I see on a lot of the bikes the tubes appear inserted into forgings (?) where two or more tubes come together, but I don’t see welds. One poster used the term “glued and screwed”. How are these tubes and forgings held together? How can a frame have steel AND aluminum components? I’m also noticing “side pull” brake calipers on some bikes. Are these really effective or is that something I will find myself wanting to upgrade? I remember, as a youngster, that our Montgomery Wards 5 speeds came with side pulls and we cursed them and coveted the much more effective center pull or cantilever brakes. These questions are more for my understanding and education than for narrowing down my selection. One thing regarding my selection, though, is the frame size. One of the CL posts stated that the 23” frame was desirable for 5’10” - 6’1” riders. Is that assuming a “standard” upper torso-to-inseam ratio? I think I saw, on this forum, a section for sizing and fitting a bike to rider. I’m headed there next! |
Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20448825)
I’m also noticing “side pull” brake calipers on some bikes. Are these really effective or is that something I will find myself wanting to upgrade? I remember, as a youngster, that our Montgomery Wards 5 speeds came with side pulls and we cursed them and coveted the much more effective center pull or cantilever brakes. Plenty of low-budget bikes had (and still have) side-pulls worthy of cursing. But the top brands had top-end caliper models too. There's plenty of debate as to the relative merits of center-pull versus side-pull, but I think it's safe to say that any center-pull is probably better than the crappiest of side-pulls, and the best of the side-pulls were equal to (and lighter than) most center-pulls. Today's side-pull calipers have a different design including a second pivot point that balances the amount of leverage applied by both arms, a blend of the two older designs. In my first C&V project, I tossed the low-budget calipers and replaced with modern Tektro dual-pivot calipers that were inexpensive, very effective, and visually unassuming. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1a4e1611cd.jpg I also used modern levers and a modern twist grip shifter because I was going for functional, not period correct. My second project was a higher-level model equipped with center-pulls, so I kept them but use modern pads (Kool Stop). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...13968eae66.jpg With that bike, I've tried to limit any upgrades to what I might have done in 1973 and the years that followed. (I'll probably never do a strict restoration with matching period correct components.) These questions are more for my understanding and education than for narrowing down my selection. |
Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20448781)
Thanks to all for the very helpful input. To Aubergine, that was exactly my thinking when looking at the Kabuki. From the pics and my online research it has steel wheels. I have found rims and donor wheels that I could rob rims from and relace to the Kabuki hubs (just cause I think the hubs are cool looking) or replace the complete wheel set, in an effort to reduce weight. I just don’t want to start spending money “to polish a turd”. I like the Schwinn Worl Sport in the above link but I remember reading in another thread that there was something undesirable about either the front chai wheel or derailleur system. I am going to go back and find out specifically.
I am 6’ tall, with a 33” inseam (long torso) and currently 230 lbs try to get to 205-210 lbs. I live about 10-12 miles NE of downtown Dallas. Thanks again for all the help! here are some possibliities $140 nishiki https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...631932327.html $110 really nice frame Univega prestige https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...634078784.html (and if you look in C&V for sale there is a full ultegra triple groupset for sale.....full disclosure it is mine, but it would make a really nice combo) another nishki....may have been posted before $165 https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...636255988.html |
Found a Peugeot Iseran on CL, asking $70. Appears to be all there, not ridden in quite a while. Frame material is HLE? Initial research says it is "better" than HiTen but haven't found a comparison to Cromoly regarding strength and weight.
Any pertinent info from anybody? MiloFrance? Roypercy? I tried to send a URL link but I was told I must have 10 posts, min, to attach URL's. |
The Pug is on my way home, stopping to inspect tonight.
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Is it safe to assume that with a "better" frame material (hopefully lighter) and lighter wheels, that the Pug is a better buy than the Kabuki that started me on this adventure? Considering the $75 asking price for each.
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Also located a Trek 1220, alum frame, Shimano 105 (?) shifters and brakes...asking $150. Other than the alum frame, there doesn't appear to be much of an improvement over the Pug.
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HLE Tubing
The Iseran isn't a lugged frame but internally brazed, and a low end model. If it needs new tyres (adding maybe $25?) it's starting to go over it's market value. Same with the Trek, it's at it's VGC price. Probably quite a different ride experience. Unless you're desperate to get out there, I'd wait. |
There are 2 Nishiki in Garland that look OK to me but Someone else will have to let you know how good they are. Pushing the budget a little too... :(
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...628806689.html is looking pretty good to me |
Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20453474)
Also located a Trek 1220, alum frame, Shimano 105 (?) shifters and brakes...asking $150. Other than the alum frame, there doesn't appear to be much of an improvement over the Pug.
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Hello MiloFrance, the Pug was trashed and a little too tall on standover ht. I saw the Nishiki's and trying to research a little more. Came across a Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2 with 23" frame, purchased new in 1978 and stored since 1992. It's all there (tires rotted) and looks nice for no clean-up before pics. One owner, has owner's manual and receipt with original price of $229, in CA. Asking $60, OBO. Front of owner's manual calls it "lightweight 10 speed" and first bit of info I found says that Le Tour were made in Japan and later in Mississippi, USA. Poster had two pics attached, one of Japan built bike and one of USA built. The bike I'm looking at has paint and frame decals matching the Japan built bike.
Anyone with info? |
BTW, Le Tour has aluminum wheels, center-pull brakes and a cable driven speedometer on front axle. I'm assuming it was a dealer installed accessory.
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Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20456037)
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The Super Le Tour is a good bike for an excellent price. Go get it! |
+1 The Super Le Tour will be a fine intro to C&V. Easy to work on, the Japanese components are low-cost and readily available if needed, and it will be a decent rider as well. Plus it's red, which makes it faster. At that price it's all win! :)
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Well, I missed the Super Le Tour! Already gone. Anyone with an opinion on this? Reduced to $75. Is “531” an alloy used for the frame? I have emailed the poster about frame size and approx model year. qrgv8-6638993326@sale.craigslist.org |
Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20457071)
Well, I missed the Super Le Tour! Already gone. Anyone with an opinion on this? Reduced to $75. Is “531” an alloy used for the frame? I have emailed the poster about frame size and approx model year. qrgv8-6638993326@sale.craigslist.org 531 is Reynolds tubing in that allow and is generally considered quite good a working link will help give you an idea |
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My bad, squirtdad. I have perused CL and other sources of info regarding bike brands, all the different models and their pecking order, years they were produced and what country they were produced in, different types of alloys used for frames and of course the different ways to mate tubes to castings/forgings. My head is spinning to the point that I failed to recognize the difference between a URL and an email link, through CL. Here's the link:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bi...638993326.html Yes, that Motobecane keeps catching my eye as I browse CL, several times per day. After being told enough times, I have accepted and become a self proclaimed anal retentive perfectionist. Unfortunately, to a fault. However, I am loving the education and fountain of knowledge all you have shared with me. I have given myself a deadline of this weekend to make a purchase. Even if it turns out that I am not that happy with it, it will at least get my feet in the water. I am not looking for that one "perfect" bike that I will keep and ride to the end of my days. Instead I plan to purchase, refurbish or simply polish up many different bikes and be able to appreciate their nuances and quirks. I am a mechanic, by trade and at heart, want a bike that I can "undress", evaluate the issues in need of attention and bring the bike back to life. I'm really not much into period correct restorations. I have no problem upgrading components to enhance the feel and ride. I guess that's why I started looking at bikes for $100 and under. With a better understanding of the things that seperate a mutt from a quality bike, I have raised my limit to asking prices up to $200, of course hoping to negotiate a better price. Thanks again to all! |
Originally Posted by uncle uncle
(Post 20458119)
The Bicycle Info Project :: Motobecane Catalog 1985 |
Might be an inch small: https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bi...648039526.html
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Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20458280)
My bad, squirtdad. I have perused CL and other sources of info regarding bike brands, all the different models and their pecking order, years they were produced and what country they were produced in, different types of alloys used for frames and of course the different ways to mate tubes to castings/forgings. My head is spinning to the point that I failed to recognize the difference between a URL and an email link, through CL. Here's the link:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bi...638993326.html Yes, that Motobecane keeps catching my eye as I browse CL, several times per day. After being told enough times, I have accepted and become a self proclaimed anal retentive perfectionist. Unfortunately, to a fault. However, I am loving the education and fountain of knowledge all you have shared with me. I have given myself a deadline of this weekend to make a purchase. Even if it turns out that I am not that happy with it, it will at least get my feet in the water. I am not looking for that one "perfect" bike that I will keep and ride to the end of my days. Instead I plan to purchase, refurbish or simply polish up many different bikes and be able to appreciate their nuances and quirks. I am a mechanic, by trade and at heart, want a bike that I can "undress", evaluate the issues in need of attention and bring the bike back to life. I'm really not much into period correct restorations. I have no problem upgrading components to enhance the feel and ride. I guess that's why I started looking at bikes for $100 and under. With a better understanding of the things that seperate a mutt from a quality bike, I have raised my limit to asking prices up to $200, of course hoping to negotiate a better price. Thanks again to all! Here is what I see for you, based on my preferences.....steel, lugged, easy to work on. The motebecane is nice, but the construction method never became common Nishki $140 (posted before) good basic bike, standard threads, good build quality, looks like it could be a rider without a lot of work, good starting point https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...631932327.html Schwinn world sportt $100 not fancy, good build quality (forged dropouts not stamped) looks like decent components nishki international $230 mid level quality https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...625479745.html fuji royal $100 https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...644635533.html at this point get one and ride :) |
N+1?
N+1? Please enlighten. I have seen other "lingo" on this forum that I am still scratching my head over, lol!
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Originally Posted by motosman1
(Post 20459755)
N+1? Please enlighten. I have seen other "lingo" on this forum that I am still scratching my head over, lol!
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