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DIY Repaint (With a Brush)

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DIY Repaint (With a Brush)

Old 08-30-18, 09:50 AM
  #1  
ollo_ollo
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DIY Repaint (With a Brush)

Got a bargain priced frame set recently and thought to make a good but cheap rider using the last of my spare parts. It had been poorly re-painted, so I was going to remove the old paint, then do a "rattle can" special. Frame was I.D. as an 87 Specialized Sirrus.

Removed the old paint down to bare metal with a combination of stripper, a curved scraper and 200 grit sandpaper for any bits that remained. Wasn't going to document the build, so sorry I didn't take pics of the bare metal frame, but found investment cast lugs, bottom bracket and sloping fork crown. Quite a bonus, and no excess brazing material to clean up.


I will powder coat this frame eventually, but want to confirm it rides as well as its appearance promised. So, I took brush in hand, some old paint and a gold paint pen to make my ride. I had half of a 1/2 pint can of Rustoleum black and expected it should be just enough, but it took surprisingly little paint. Level only went down about 1/4 inch. It went on thick, so I stopped at 1 coat. I like the black and red Motobecane scheme so used a small brush to add some Val Spar Marine, top coat, polyurethane in Racing Red to the head tube, but chickened out on seat tube stripes. When all was dry, I cranked up Lynrd Skynryd, did some sloppy lug lining and named it "Burnt Ends", a tribute to its fine build quality and also my favorite BBQ food. The end product looks pretty good, considering I didn't do multiple coats with sanding between.

For the build, once I saw how good the frame was, I decided it needed a few better parts and found some at bargain prices: a $20 Brooks Team Pro that was terribly dry and neglected, a used $30 Superbe triple crank just like the one on my Expedition Touring and a $5 105 SLR front brake caliper. For the rest, a NOS Tange cartridge bottom bracket, several shift lever sets, a Cinelli stem and Criterium bar, and a Campy (Athena?) rear brake caliper, Superbe Brake levers, Cyclone rear and Mirage Triple front D.R. and a couple used wheels were available. 1st ride was good, and fit is close, but the bar is a bit wider and stem a bit longer than I like, shift levers not fully compatible with braze-ons and fiddly. So that may change, but I will ride it a while as is. Don
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Old 08-30-18, 10:31 AM
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Wow!!! The pictures look beautiful. Nice job. You certainly have me thinking.
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Old 08-30-18, 10:44 AM
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Very Very Nice! Forget about the powder coat. Now just be careful for a few months while the paint cures. I put mine in the back of my sunny car in-between coats of brushed-on Rustoleum.
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Old 08-30-18, 10:45 AM
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Good work! I used to paint my winter/rain/city fix gears with 2-part epoxy; the same paint I used on my boat. I loved that epoxy "flows" as it cures and brush marks disappear.

Ben
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Old 08-30-18, 11:13 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney View Post
Good work! I used to paint my winter/rain/city fix gears with 2-part epoxy; the same paint I used on my boat. I loved that epoxy "flows" as it cures and brush marks disappear.
Ben
Please describe the paint more completely so we might be able to buy some - who makes it, exact name of product, etc.
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Old 08-30-18, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ollo_ollo View Post

I had half of a 1/2 pint can of Rustoleum black and expected it should be just enough, but it took surprisingly little paint. Level only went down about 1/4 inch. It went on thick, so I stopped at 1 coat. I like the black and red Motobecane scheme so used a small brush to add some Val Spar Marine, top coat, polyurethane in Racing Red to the head tube, but chickened out on seat tube stripes. When all was dry, I cranked up Lynrd Skynryd, did some sloppy lug lining and named it "Burnt Ends", a tribute to its fine build quality and also my favorite BBQ food. The end product looks pretty good, considering I didn't do multiple coats with sanding between.

Don
Don, it looks terrific! Did you NOT use a primer? If you did, what type? Did you use a clear coat over the top?

I'd like to see a photo after a year of riding it. That will tell the tale.
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Old 08-30-18, 12:02 PM
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You ever want to trade that frame for an 86 56cm Ironman let me know, a Specialized is one I don’t have.

You did a nice job on that repaint!
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Old 08-30-18, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad Lag View Post
Please describe the paint more completely so we might be able to buy some - who makes it, exact name of product, etc.
Sorry, I haven't had a 2-part epoxy paint for several decades. I't importance in my life dropped a lot when I moved away from winter salt road country. I'd go on-line and and try "epoxy 2-part paint" and see what;s out there.

Ben
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Old 08-30-18, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchmellow62 View Post
Wow!!! The pictures look beautiful. Nice job. You certainly have me thinking.
+1

I'm thinking I need to move to Salem....
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Old 08-30-18, 02:14 PM
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Nicely done! Not everyone has good sensibility when it comes to laying finish paint down with a brush. How one loads, and pallets the brush, and how they control the stroke are all key elements. Same can be said for the sequence of parts being coated, it takes a little methodical planning. The quality of the paint, and how its mixed too contribute to the end result, as does the environment that the job is being done in. Additionally as the saying goes, its all in the prep!

As a retired house painter who specialized in high end interior cabinetry and trim brush work, I know very well just how lovely, and smooth a coat of enamel, or even epoxy, can turn out. And it looks like youve certainly proven my point!
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Old 08-30-18, 02:42 PM
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Did you thin out your paint at all? I painted my pickup truck with a roller and Rusoleum Gloss White, but I thinned the paint down. Turned out very good, no one would ever guess it was Rustoleum.

The paint is nowhere near as shiny today, 8 years later, but I could easily buff it out and get a nice shine if I wanted to. The one thing I would do different next time is make sure all the surfaces I paint are roughed up. That paint will flake right off if it has nothing rough to stick to.

Congrats, OP, for ignoring all the experts and thinking outside the box. Beautiful result, don't waste your money on Velocals.

One question for the experts though, what kind of steel is used in a Specialized Sirrius? And specialized steel bikes in general, I never see a Tange, Reynolds, or Columbus sticker on Specialized bikes, so I'm baffled.
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Old 08-30-18, 02:48 PM
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I actually prefer painting with a brush and I cannot complain about the results...
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Old 08-30-18, 03:07 PM
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Looks Nice!
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Old 08-30-18, 05:55 PM
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Hmm, specialized, I wanna say true temper?

That's pretty awesome. To be honest I think I'll prefer this method if I repaint anything, unless anyone can convince me of serious drawbacks to this method.
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Old 08-30-18, 06:06 PM
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I helped my brother paint his van a custom cool green color with a few cans of Rustoleum that he mixed up himself. After several years in the direct sun, the color began to fade in places. I believe UV can damage paint if no clearcoat is used (he did not use one). But this van sat outside in the sun all day for at least 4 years, I doubt many bikes get subjected to that.

So if you use any color other than white or black, it might be a good idea to use a clearcoat for UV protection. Which is probably the same for any paint, UV can damage them over time, that's one reason why clearcoats are standard.
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Old 08-30-18, 08:06 PM
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So, to answer some of the questions: I didn't use a primer, just cleaned the bare metal thoroughly, wiped everything down with alcohol, then wiped with a tack cloth. Did not thin either color. Also no clear coat, since the paint turned out pretty glossy, but I have used clear coat over rattle can paint jobs in the past with good results. Painted just 1 coat of black all over. Then after a day of drying, did the red head tube over the black, so it's 2 coats on the head tube. The red paint label says pigment content is 11%.

michael k: I did get the saddle and a few parts in Salem but bought the frame in Sandy, Oregon, and last year, in Portland, got a Super Course frame set with some parts for $25. Stella also is from Portland, so maybe you are already in a good place.

Colnago Mixte: I read the 1987 Sirrus was made in Taiwan in several places. Some one also said the 87-89 Allez/Sirrus were the "Golden Years" but the early 80-81 Allez seem to have the best reputation. My 84 Expedition Touring has stickers that just say "Special Series Tubing".

This thread has info that the Expedition tubing was by Tange and that it was same gauge as Columbus SP. Also says they moved manufacturing from Japan to Taiwan in 1986 when the U.S. dollar tanked against the Yen, and that "later" Giant made the Allez and Sirrus: Some Specialized history

I added some extra washers to the shift levers and they work better now. I'll be riding it from time to time until mid-October when the weather turns wet again. I may try a shorter stem and bar I have too, we'll see. Don

Last edited by ollo_ollo; 08-30-18 at 08:08 PM. Reason: fix a word
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Old 08-30-18, 11:06 PM
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Keep a sharp eye on your paint job. A single coat is subject to pinholes which may not be readily apparent until corrosion starts getting bad (black color will mask the early signs).

A clear overcoat would seal the inner color coat.
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Old 08-31-18, 12:21 AM
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Good point, I will. Don't plan to ride it in wet weather as have other fendered bikes. Just brushed on 1 coat because I only plan to ride this version for a short time, couple of years tops. Don
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Old 08-31-18, 05:00 AM
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I would point out that the paint is named "Rustoleum". I believe it's designed to paint right over rust, never a good idea, but designed to be able to do that.

I have stripped the stuff before and paint stripper takes it right off easily.
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Old 08-31-18, 05:49 AM
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Never mind the name, read the label. Rustoleum recommends their primer before the topcoat. Rustoleum makes some great rust-converting primer, sold in spray cans.
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Old 08-31-18, 07:21 AM
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Have not looked at the instructions on the lately (I'm terrible at reading instructions) but my understanding at the time was that no primer coat was needed.

When I painted my truck with liquid Rustoleum Gloss White, I did use a primer, wanting to do the job right. I regretted this decision when I got some drips and unevenness in the primer. Even after 5 or 6 coats, I kept having problems with continually sanding through to the primer, which was a totally different color than the main coat and stuck out like sore thumb.

If you do use a primer with this stuff, make damned sure it goes on evenly. But I'm fairly convinced that this stuff does not really even need a primer.
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Old 08-31-18, 08:59 AM
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Brushed on 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of color, sanding and minimum 6 days between coats. After 2 years of regular 38 mile round trip commuting, it is holding up well. I owe it all to Randy's www guidance.
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Old 08-31-18, 09:30 AM
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Oh! The ultra-rare 1-3/8" frame!
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Old 09-02-18, 08:38 PM
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These turned out so lovely!
I am planning on painting an already painted, by the previous owner supercourse. The previous job is good but old and chipping now.
I'm trying to decide between a rattle can job or a brush on. What would you guys suggest for a first time painter?
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Old 09-02-18, 09:09 PM
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1/2 pint of primer and 1/2 pint of color Rustoleum for less than 15 bucks plus a decent brush. Added bonus: there is no overspray.
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