How To - Drop Bar Conversion
#1
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How To - Drop Bar Conversion
I want to install a drop handlebar on my mountain bike and I am really kind of stumped and flabbergasted. I don't mean I can't ever figure it out. I mean this is a lot more complicated than I thought. I am also under the impression you guys have done this and know the easiest, most effective, efficient, cheapest way to go.
The drop bars I have are 1.00" in diameter and the stem is 1.03" diameter, so I have a shim taking up the gap. That works well.
The drop bars are 0.93" diameter everywhere else other than the at the stem. The mountain bike bars, brake levers and thumb shifter have a 0.870” in diameter so nothing from those bars fits the road bars.
I have a pair of aero levers for the drop bars (hidden cable housings). Will the aero levers work with the cantilevered brakes?
I am especially in need of a way to mount my gear shift lever for my Shimano ALFINE 8 speed internally geared hub.
How can I install the thumb shifter without reaming out the shifter to fit the bars?
The drop bars I have are 1.00" in diameter and the stem is 1.03" diameter, so I have a shim taking up the gap. That works well.
The drop bars are 0.93" diameter everywhere else other than the at the stem. The mountain bike bars, brake levers and thumb shifter have a 0.870” in diameter so nothing from those bars fits the road bars.
I have a pair of aero levers for the drop bars (hidden cable housings). Will the aero levers work with the cantilevered brakes?
I am especially in need of a way to mount my gear shift lever for my Shimano ALFINE 8 speed internally geared hub.
How can I install the thumb shifter without reaming out the shifter to fit the bars?
Last edited by Bad Lag; 09-08-18 at 08:02 PM.
#2
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I used bar-end shifters (Microshift that are Mtn Shimano 11-speed in my case). The levers will probably be ok. (I used TRP hydraulics so I cannot give advice.)
Also, mine wasn't technically a conversion because I started with a frame (and it was one designed for mountain drop-bars).
Probably the most cost-effective conversion would be to use trekking bars.
Also, mine wasn't technically a conversion because I started with a frame (and it was one designed for mountain drop-bars).
Probably the most cost-effective conversion would be to use trekking bars.
#3
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So, I mounted the bars using a 3ttt road stem (quill stem). That gets me a set of bars and brakes.
The real trick is proving to be the shifters. They don't fit the road bars. I need to work something out because I don't want to buy anything just for this experiment.
Is it okay too run the ALFINE hub as a single speed (no cable, just let it fall into a gear and stay there for the duration of one ride)?
The real trick is proving to be the shifters. They don't fit the road bars. I need to work something out because I don't want to buy anything just for this experiment.
Is it okay too run the ALFINE hub as a single speed (no cable, just let it fall into a gear and stay there for the duration of one ride)?
#4
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Tektro makes a couple of reasonably priced brake levers.
RL520 work well with linear pull brakes (V-Brakes).
RL340 for other brakes.
I'm not sure where the Cantis fall. I've been using the Origin8 Classique levers on one bike which seem to be strong levers with a lot of pull for my old side-pull brake calipers.
TRP RRL also makes a good aero brake lever, but a little more expensive than Tektro or Origin8.
Microshift also sells a bar end shifter for the Alfine 8. I haven't tried it, but it is worth looking at.
RL520 work well with linear pull brakes (V-Brakes).
RL340 for other brakes.
I'm not sure where the Cantis fall. I've been using the Origin8 Classique levers on one bike which seem to be strong levers with a lot of pull for my old side-pull brake calipers.
TRP RRL also makes a good aero brake lever, but a little more expensive than Tektro or Origin8.
Microshift also sells a bar end shifter for the Alfine 8. I haven't tried it, but it is worth looking at.
#5
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Cheap version: start with an 80s MTB with cantilever brakes and downtube shifters and don’t worry about anything.
#6
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So, I mounted the bars using a 3ttt road stem (quill stem). That gets me a set of bars and brakes.
The real trick is proving to be the shifters. They don't fit the road bars. I need to work something out because I don't want to buy anything just for this experiment.
Is it okay too run the ALFINE hub as a single speed (no cable, just let it fall into a gear and stay there for the duration of one ride)?
The real trick is proving to be the shifters. They don't fit the road bars. I need to work something out because I don't want to buy anything just for this experiment.
Is it okay too run the ALFINE hub as a single speed (no cable, just let it fall into a gear and stay there for the duration of one ride)?
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#7
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Then it might get difficult. Not everything can be MacGyvered at zero cost with a reasonable effort and acceptable results.
One option is to carve a wooden dowel, one end to fit into the bar end, the other to fit the shifter.
without knowing what’s in your parts bin, that’s the lowest cost option I can think of.
Or it might have been the front derailer. Or brake pull. Or flat-mount vs Post Mount calipers.
Or....
Drop bar conversions do hold some traps for the unwary.
Last edited by dabac; 09-08-18 at 11:55 PM.
#8
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Then it might get difficult. Not everything can be MacGyvered at zero cost with a reasonable effort and acceptable results.
One option is to carve a wooden dowel, one end to fit into the bar end, the other to fit the shifter.
without knowing what’s in your parts bin, that’s the lowest cost option I can think of.
One option is to carve a wooden dowel, one end to fit into the bar end, the other to fit the shifter.
without knowing what’s in your parts bin, that’s the lowest cost option I can think of.
What I am struggling with is how best to hold the dowel rod to the bar. I need a bracket or hose clamp (ugh!) or ... I'll work it out tomorrow.
I have also been thinking about an aluminum bracket to hold the shifter.
#9
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If it weren't so ridiculously expensive (~$500), I'd like to try an 11 speed ALFINE hub.
If eight is great!
Then, eleven
would be heaven!
#11
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Option 2: hot glue. Size for a loose fit. Heat bar until hot glue smears. Apply glue inside bar and insert dowel.
#12
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You might want to check out this thread, lots and lots of MTB conversions.
Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#13
Junior Member
Pure cycles offer a 22.2mm drop bar that will fit mtb shifters.
#15
Senior Member
Could the shift lever be mounted to the stem. The diameter of the stem would have to be increased with tape or something.
#16
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Thread Starter
I had a little bit more success today when I recognized the stem diameter is the proper size for attaching the gear shift lever. I have attached the shifter to the vertical portion of the stem. The cable routing is far from perfect but the shifter is on the bike with no bracketry of any type needed for this little test.
#17
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Thread Starter
You might want to check out this thread, lots and lots of MTB conversions.
Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#18
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Two cheapest routes on drop bar conversion shifters:
1. Stem shifters.
2. Thumb shifters that have steel mounting bands. Longer screw and you are good to go.
On handlebars it’s easiest to start with a stem with a face plate. Kalloy makes a low priced one. Manuveuring a set of drops through a MTB stem can sometimes be tough although that’s what I usually do.
in your case case I would consider the 22mm drops mentioned above.
i tend to use bar end shifters on my conversions as I have a drawer full.
1. Stem shifters.
2. Thumb shifters that have steel mounting bands. Longer screw and you are good to go.
On handlebars it’s easiest to start with a stem with a face plate. Kalloy makes a low priced one. Manuveuring a set of drops through a MTB stem can sometimes be tough although that’s what I usually do.
in your case case I would consider the 22mm drops mentioned above.
i tend to use bar end shifters on my conversions as I have a drawer full.
#19
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Thread Starter
A point of clarification - this is an 8 speed internally geared hub. It uses a "digital" click shifter not an "analog" friction shifter. I am not sure how easy an "analog" friction shifter would be to use (fishing for gears).
When I get this test ride done, I will have to evaluate the various options you people have mentioned. It's a nice bike but I'm pretty sure I don't want to spend $200 on a set of brifters for it, especially since I have been very happy with the thumb shifters. They work well on flat bars.
Pure Cycles Handlebars - These cost only $26, so they are likely hard to beat.
When I get this test ride done, I will have to evaluate the various options you people have mentioned. It's a nice bike but I'm pretty sure I don't want to spend $200 on a set of brifters for it, especially since I have been very happy with the thumb shifters. They work well on flat bars.
Pure Cycles Handlebars - These cost only $26, so they are likely hard to beat.
Last edited by Bad Lag; 09-09-18 at 04:26 PM.
#20
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Thread Starter
The bars fit both the 3ttt road stem and the original mountain bike stem (using a thin shim). The problem now is just the shifter. Those bars may just be my eventual solution.
#21
Junior Member
Cheap and cheerful with Pure cycles drop bar.
#22
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I bought this bar from China in 2015. I installed a MTB thumbie without a hassle. The bike was sold.
https://m.es.aliexpress.com/item/205...tem.2052639859
https://m.es.aliexpress.com/item/205...tem.2052639859
#23
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More expensive options for shifting an Alfine 8-speed hub on drop bars:
#25
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