Like a lizard person!

The experiment starts tomorrow. Ironic that it comes from Michigan...

1st application is on/in. There was no excess to wipe off, already sounding less like an over stretched drum skin...

I've only had a couple saddles that I rode from when they were new until when they were used up. One was a Brooks Pro that I used from about 1980 until maybe ten years ago, when it started to tear at the rivets. I don't remember what I did to it, but it never seemed to soften. I definitely applied Proofide several times --the old orange colored stuff-- but I can't say it did anything. I may have fooled with the tension bolt, I don't know why. I strongly suspect the saddle failed because of some mistreatment done by me, but what that may have been, I don't remember clearly enough.

I also have a Fujita Professional saddle that I got in 1982. More or less like the other one, it never seemed to soften despite application of Proofide. About seven or eight years ago, on the last day of a short tour, I rode in light rain every day for three days, until on the last day I got caught in absolutely drenching rain maybe 75 miles from home. The saddle got soaked and didn't get a chance to dry out until I was home. It got badly stretched and deformed. I pushed it into the right shape before it dried, and it is usable now, but I have basically retired it.

I realize both of those anecdotes are pretty useless, but they are my only experience with new saddles that old.

I also bought a couple new Brooks saddles about ten years ago, a B17 Standard and a Flyer. I applied Proofide, sparingly, as suggested, and both saddles got much too soft much too fast (a couple thousand miles). I sold one of them, and put the other on my wife's bike, where it doesn't get used.

Where I've owned saddles from new, I haven't taken sufficiently meticulous notes to be able to say what has worked, and what hasn't worked. Even with new saddles, there are too many variables.

When we're dealing with old saddles, there are many more variables. I have a NOS Ideale 42, for example... probably from the 60's or 70's. I haven't used it, and haven't done anything to it. The leather looks pretty new, but it may be badly dried out. I'm curious about how long it would last, if used, but I'm doubtful whether anything can be learned.

I guess this is a good place to ask about cost of replacing leather on brooks saddle. Post mentioned $30 for leather, but how much does the installation cost? Assuming it's a specialist job and not everyone or even every leather worker can do it???

Well, since you ask....

As mentioned, there's a guy selling pieces of leather on eBay. It's not me. I haven't bought from him, and I make no assumptions about the quality of the leather one way or another. It may be great stuff, or not, I just don't know.

Occasionally you can buy pre-formed leather saddle tops on eBay. I bought one, recent production from India (I think), just to see what the quality was. I was not impressed. I wasn't even sure it was leather. I riveted it to a frame and sold it at a modest loss.

I can tell you that if you go to a leather supplier, 'sole bend' leather, the really thick stuff, is sold in pieces about the size of a bath towel that cost about $100-$150 plus shipping. That might be enough for maybe 30 saddles, depending on how you cut them; you won't get as many if you cut them in such a way that they will stretch symmetrically (which is a skill that one needs to learn as well, and after 200+ saddles I am not convinced I have learned it yet). A complete sole bend will often have a brand (or two) and may have other flaws. When I can, I always use the branded piece for a special saddle; not using that piece would seem like pretending animal cruelty doesn't happen.

Forming a piece of leather into a saddle is not rocket science, but it's definitely a skill that takes some time to learn. You really have to stretch the **** (insert expletive of your choice) out of it to make it into the Y-shape characteristic of a bicycle saddle (Y-shape, that is, rather than V-shaped). It took me about ten tries before I was even halfheartedly pleased with the results, and they still don't always come out the way I want them. Riveting the leather to the frame is another skill.

I've been charging $100, plus shipping, and that includes the leather, rivets, &c. And I'm pretty far behind now, which leads me to think I should raise the price.

RHM

Thank you, I have been wondering for sometime what I would be looking at. I have an older Brooks now but still unsure if I like the ride. Nice to have an idea.

WGB

2nd application done. Squeezing the sides together, there is noticeably more give in the leather. A fairly light application disappeared in to the leather pdq, still no excess to wipe off.

I have a Pro that I bought new with somewhat of the opposite problem. It looks new but the leather is as hard as a rock, there is ZERO give when trying to press down on the top (even on a new one, I can get a little give when pressed on). I wonder if this one had been soaked in water causing all of the oils to leech out of the leather, and if using neatsfoot oil would help.

Several hours later, it's still pretty solid, but has enough give in it to not be like sitting on a piece of carved granite. I might leave it at that for the moment and get it on a bike as soon as I can.
edit
It's flexing evenly along the length, doesn't feel like there's a weak point in the middle. Flaring the sides outwards also feels like its an even flex and not about to explode in to a million pieces...

Did you apply it on just the top or on both sides?

FWIW I have 2 brooks and they have behaved very differently....whether by design or not I am not sure. I am happy with both

The first is a B17 tan, got it new and have applied proofhide both sides a couple times a year.... the saddle has formed to me, is super plush feeling and the leather is pliable but does not feel over soft. I have adjusted the cantle once in what 10 years?

the second is a swift...... I have about 1500 miles on it, use proofhide and is is still no softer than the day I got it. I can just barely seed the start of sit bone molding on the saddle. I really like it

so both are comfy but different.

I am still on my original tin of proofhide for both saddles, so I apply it regularly but very sparingly

Top and Bottom (LOL)

30km on the CYFAC/MaxiSports, and close to the comfort of the Brooks pro I have on the Holdsworth. I'll keep a watchful eye on the shape, but for the moment, 2 applications top and bottom of Neatsfoot oil, and 48hrs rest. Happy with that for €20.